No, its not that it doesn't start after swapping batteries.
Its that it won't start after clifford alarm UN-install! Some connection has changed electrically, and THATS why it won't start currently...
No, its not that it doesn't start after swapping batteries.
Its that it won't start after clifford alarm UN-install! Some connection has changed electrically, and THATS why it won't start currently...
When you started the car mid alarm removal, was it with the old battery or this new one?
The alarm you removed only prevents a car from starting by interrupting the starter wire, which is the wire you reconnected. Aside from the red and yellow wires that were capped and the door lock wires, were there other wires that came off of the alarm's harness that trailed off into the car?
Only like 5+ sets trailing off into other places of the car, haha..
I did my best to trace everything everywhere..
New refreshed battery this whole time that's all I've used.
aaahhh still can't be sure, I'll have to test wires with a friend and volt meter later, just bummed
Ahh, okay you did not switch batteries during the whole ordeal.
In reviewing the installation guide for the Clifford RS3.5, it uses all of the standard DEI alarm connections. So the only vehicle disabling feature should have been the starter kill which you undid when you reconnected the starter wire.
Did you verify that the rest of the heavy gauge wires in the ingition harness were intact? Is it possible you blew a fuse?
Here is a link to the install manual:
http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...9564_07-05.pdf
Pages 58 and 59 are the quick reference guide for wires and wire colors.
Yes the rest of the heavy gauge wires in ignition harness are intact.
I will try to check some fuses..
I feel like something else happened during the uninstall unrelated to the clifford alarm, and now that's an issue. Car has an SAFC II installed now with the optional 3/S harness to splice between the factory ECU plugs, and I unplugged the connections once during all this, but I double checked that and all wires/connectors look good and are plugged back in.
Does the 3/S only have one clutch (neutral safety) switch? My '91 Talon has two clutch switches, and I just had to tap into one of them for an aftermarket install.
This '93 TT has a 2-wire connector that is loose up around the clutch pedal area, but I think its fine being loose and the 1 clutch safety switch connector is plugged in..
I think its a click in the interior when I turn the key,
I'll get help with a friend and volt meter tomorrow on it hopefully..
Is the click coming from the passenger side of the center console?
Also since the alarm you removed was an alarm/remote start model, it is possible that the original installer messed with the clutch switch wiring but with how our system operates the two wires would have to be shorted together now, which isn't very likely. But it is something to check.
If you look at the clutch pedal assembly there are two switches, one near the firewall and one on the opposite side of the assembly close to the dash panel. Very similar to a DSM. The switch close to the dash panel is the one that impacts starting, and as luck would have it the more accessible of the two. Normally to bypass the switch you only need to unplug it but a proper alarm install would have tapped into the wiring to create a temporary break in the circuit via a relay. I would verify that the wiring going to that switch is intact.
Last edited by 95gto; 04-17-2013 at 09:25 AM.
I agree with Hans. A replacement only costs about $17 from amazon, and it won't have those dangling red and yellow wires. The contacts in the ignition switch corrode (20 years old) and after replacing it, my intermittent no start problem was permanently cured. And as bonus it cleaned up a previous car alarm install.
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