The Otters tiny TD04 Build

[J. Fast]

Delete the brake booster and convert to an aftermarket brake master?

[FeaRpb]

I haven't planned on it.

I will be running a DSM master cylinder tho.

[green-lantern]

Since my car was a Base model it doesn't have the booster, it sucks! lol, it screws up my knee. I'm going to convert mine so I can run a booster.

[FeaRpb]

Since my car was a Base model it doesn't have the booster, it sucks! lol, it screws up my knee. I'm going to convert mine so I can run a booster.

That would be interesting to see. When do you plan on doing that?

[DocWalt]

Uhhh... Paul, your car doesn't have a clutch booster. All 3S's have a brake booster.

[J. Fast]

I haven't planned on it.

I will be running a DSM master cylinder tho.

If you're plumbing on that side there's significant benefits to removing the booster. You could use a 7/8 or 3/4 dual master and shift/ brake with your pinky toes. Opens up that side of the engine bay real nice, especially when you relocate the power steering res also.

[FeaRpb]

My power steering will be deleted.

[Uniuno]

I was planning on installing a booster for the clutch, I didn't know there was a common alternative.

[J. Fast]

I was planning on installing a booster for the clutch, I didn't know there was a common alternative.

The alternative is a properly sized master cylinder. Pedal engagement force is adjusted via fulcrum length and master piston diameter.

If your driving down the road doing 80 miles an hour and turn off the ignition vac assisted brakes don't work very well. More than likely you'll need 300lbs of pedal force to stop in under 1000 feet. if you're in a high performance vehicle and experience fuel cut, ignition cut, elecrical malfunction or anything that may cut power resulting in killing the engine more than likely you'll still want to have brakes. Mechanical brakes work great if implemented correctly.

[fullracegt]

My power steering will be deleted.

thats gonna be rough lol does that effect the life of the rack/gears?