seal cowl induction?

[BigTyla]

I'm almost certain Paul has splashguards installed else he wouldn't be so persnickety about the subject at hand.

I also agree with IPD about the hood vent. It's a much better solution for the problem at hand (FMIC, large and hot turbos) than a hood with a rise in the back. I'd love to see a fully-ducted solution that vents through the hood vent, but that's probably just me loving the overboard solution for a street car.

[PaulL]

paul,

my $.02:

you want a vented hood--hood intakes (cowl or otherwise) are a bad idea--for our cars. you want all the airflow you can possibly get to go through your intercooler & radiator. you want to syphon that hot air out of the bay as fast as you can. any form of additional airflow into the bay will reduce how quickly said how air can be expunged.

Thanks for the input. I had bought this hood probably about 6 or 7 years ago and sold the stock hood. I have not driven the car very much in that time frame. It seems that at the time of purchasing, no one really mentioned anything about the slight raise in the back to be a bad thing for these cars. I don't want to spend anymore money on a new hood, so I'm kind of stuck with what I have for now.

[QUOTE=J. Fast=Tape some yarn, tuft wool, or caution tape (cut into 1/4" X 6" strips) to your hood every 12" on center in the field and every 6" on the perimeter and post up how the air is moving. Use backer rod or garage door gasket to temporarily close off the cowl and repeat the test. Prove the problem and then come back to discuss a fix.

... All this time to type winded questions for 5 minutes of your time and $5 worth of scotch tape, string, and gas for an empirical answer? Time waster, really.[/QUOTE]

Been working on the car for the past week or so. It hasn't been drivable for me to take it out and try it. There is some good information in this thread, so I will have to respectfully disagree on the fact that it's a time waster.

[PaulL]

Are you actually overheating? If not, why bother sealing it if your engine temps are fine.

Are your main splash shields (aka - front spoiler for VR4s) in place? Radiator cowl in place? Those are a lot more important to overall proper cooling/air flow than your hood yet so many leave them off or do not replace when damaged.

Splashguards are installed, no radiator duct now as I have an FMIC. Car temp is fine when the a/c is turned off, about 193 degrees at interstate speeds. Temps are based off innovative G3 temp gauge in the t-stat housing. Temp starts very very slowly creeping up with a/c on over time, but I haven't had a long enough duration of driving the car to see how absolute high it gets. I really haven't had much time to take the car out for testing. Once I was driving with the A/C on and a CEL was thrown. Temp gauge read about 200 degrees, it was 85 degrees outside. I turned the A/C off, and a minute later the CEL went off. I later turned the A/C back on and didn't see the CEL come back on.

One thing I did notice yesterday was my t-stat housing cap is old, and the seal had some small cracks in it, so there may have been a bunch of air pockets in the cooling system. I put a new stant cap on yesterday and bled the coolant system so I am planning on going out for a test drive the next chance I have to see what the results are.

[PaulL]

I'm almost certain Paul has splashguards installed else he wouldn't be so persnickety about the subject at hand.

I also agree with IPD about the hood vent. It's a much better solution for the problem at hand (FMIC, large and hot turbos) than a hood with a rise in the back. I'd love to see a fully-ducted solution that vents through the hood vent, but that's probably just me loving the overboard solution for a street car.

I thought I saw a picture on som other forum with a DSM that was working on that solution. It looks like he had vents right behind the radiator, and made ducting for the air coming through the radiator to go right out of the vents.

[IPD]

I thought I saw a picture on som other forum with a DSM that was working on that solution. It looks like he had vents right behind the radiator, and made ducting for the air coming through the radiator to go right out of the vents.

if you're familiar with the DSM scene at all, you've probably ran across gixxerdrew's hood for 2g's. i tried throwing together a GB for a limited run of that same type of hood for the 3/s...but never got any nibbles.

[PaulL]

I might have run across it, but I'm not familiar with the DSM scene. I just found a link someone had posted on 3SI while I was doing a search and saw it then.

Well, I went on another test drive, and posted the results in the other thread is was posting in
http://www.3sgto.org/f13/overheating...rs-6158-5.html

Its about all of the time I had to test drive today, but hopefully I can get all of these cooling issues worked out this summer without having to remove the FMIC.

[IPD]

- DSMtuners Gallery

i'm 100% certain that if he'd built a hood for our platform, it would be the best hood ever offered by anyone. ever.

[stealthee]

Except for the looks issue.

Like it or not that is why you didn't get any bites. If you like your choice of hood, fine, but don't get pissy because no one else does.

[PaulL]

Except for the looks issue.

Like it or not that is why you didn't get any bites. If you like your choice of hood, fine, but don't get pissy because no one else does.

I am confused at who this is directed at?

[stealthee]

Its directed at IPD. He tried to get a Group Buy going for that hood for a 3s and got no interest. The reason he got no interest is because the styling does not fit the 3s styling.