Removing clutch pedal assembly, brake booster and clutch master cyl - guides, tips?

[Gearheadvr4]

Got the brake booster off and clutch loose, struggling with under the dash to pull the pedals. Huge PITA.

[blackrob]

Weight reduction! Just kiddin, that's the assembly picture from ASC who built the convertible tops. I've removed so much that it's almost getting to that point.

converting an old 92 VR4 to a FWD automatic. A lot of work since so much has to be swapped.

Um, wouldn't it be cheaper and a whole lot easier to just by a 92 FWD???

[lawdogg]

So it looks like you have to pull out the brake booster stuff to get to the clutch stuff?

[Gearheadvr4]

Um, wouldn't it be cheaper and a whole lot easier to just by a 92 FWD???

The Spyder, after is converted to AWD it will be my main vehicle. I needed the engine harness, clutch, and a bunch of other little things for the conversion. I've had this VR4 sitting here for years and I figured I'd just swap the Spyder's SL parts into it to get it running. It will be sold off locally when I'm done.

[Gearheadvr4]

Success!!! Biggest pain on the whole project so far.

[n2nsanity]

[QUOTE=Gearheadvr4;156631]No way, I'm off work finally and I've got to get this done! Put it off for too long.

To make life easier for now and for later, I'd recommend a buying a new clutch master cylinder and a braided ss clutch line. About $50 total for both. I'd probably pay $100 to not have to do the clutch cylinder again for a few years, lol.

For installing pedal assembly in the atx car, get some bimetal hole saw blades for cutting the hole. Otherwise you'll end up going this route, lol.


Or get some step drill bits, they're cheaper and cut through the firewall like butter. I think the hole is 1 1/4"
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece...lls-96275.html

Something like this will help greatly with the holes if the dash is still in.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2000P?prdNo=11

I have this exact one and it's amazing. Just bought this and some other stuff at an awesome price
http://slickdeals.net/permadeal/6978...tic-bit-holder
Deal is expired now though...

I've got a bunch of pictures if you need. Granted a few things will be different on a tt or spyder, but most of the basic stuff is the same.

[n2nsanity]

Success!!! Biggest pain on the whole project so far.

Unless you're swapping engine harnesses...

Also, the atx has a different ignition with a cable going from it to the shifter.


Ignition end of this cable


You may need to swap ignitions. And if you do that, you might as well swap doorlocks to match. Extra work. Or just have matching sets of keys for each car, lol.

[Gearheadvr4]

I am swapping engine harnesses, pulled the VR4 one already. I couldn't think of an easy way to tap in the TCU for the auto trans.

Wtf - first I'm hearing of a cable. I assume that's a lockout to be sure it's only in park when you start the car? Is this absolutely required or can I bypass it.

[n2nsanity]

Noone ever mentions the cable, so I thought I'd throw it out there. If you remove it, I think you can start an atx in gear, lol. Or if you're using the atx ignition on an mtx, it won't matter, just remove it.

Also, if you were concerned about the neutral safety switch for the mtx, I think that is in the dash harness. But you dont need that either. You will just be able start the mtx in gear, lol. Just have to be cautious. Pretend like it's normal and always press the clutch in to start it. I already find myself being lazy and starting mine without pressing the clutch.

[Gearheadvr4]

Ill take any pictures you have. Any help is appreciated.

I think I will try without the cable, depends on what's involved to swap it.