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Thread: Routing vacuum lines.

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by jba3 View Post
    Same here. No differences. Though, there is something on Stealth316.com about running it around the side of the battery, instead of in the horrendous stock routing. But I prefer to ditch it.
    Not sure here, but I think people are mixing up the booster and the vac reservoir. Removal of the reservoir will cause zero differences in clutch pedal stiffness with the car on.

    The clutch booster works like the brake booster. It uses engine vacuum and a diaphragm in the booster to assist in clutch pedal stiffness. I wouldn't remove the booster myself... but some probably have with no ill effects.

    Vacuum reduction, Powdercoated misc, cruise relocate, Evo9 BOV, Custom catch cans, Russell fuel filter, SS braided fuel lines, High flow fuel loop, Autogage fuel gauge, Catless DP, DNP Y-pipe, Fuel pump hotwire.

  2. #32
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    Removing the booster makes a marginal difference. I'm honestly not sure why they bothered, they could have just sized the cylinders differently...
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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocWalt View Post
    Removing the booster makes a marginal difference. I'm honestly not sure why they bothered, they could have just sized the cylinders differently...
    I figured this much... otherwise is wouldn't be there.

    I probably could find out by simply disconnecting the hose from the plenum, but I never have.

  4. #34
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    just pump the clutch when the car is off. It gets noticeably stiffer, but I don't really have any problems with it. I guess for the every day person that expects luxury mushiness, it would be annoying.

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    My new clutch is FUCKING STIFF. Maybe its just that I havent driven a stick in a year. lol. either way, its gunna take some getting used to.

  6. #36
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    If you have an upgraded pressure plate it will be a lot harder to push (some are worse than others).

    As for pressing the clutch pedal to start, JDM and UK spec cars never had this from the factory. I personally don`t like the idea of pre-loading the crank thrust bearings with no oil pressure while starting but each to their own.

    I ditched the clutch vac resovoir, didn`t notice any difference.
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    BTW. It was a bitch to get my vac line down that "hole" you guys mention. Maybe I just have less room than you guys, but it took a solid 15 minutes of poking around and just standing there waiting for it to finally clear something. Finally got it through and started to use it and electrical tape to pull the rest of my stuff through.

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2xtreme360 View Post
    Not sure here, but I think people are mixing up the booster and the vac reservoir. Removal of the reservoir will cause zero differences in clutch pedal stiffness with the car on.

    The clutch booster works like the brake booster. It uses engine vacuum and a diaphragm in the booster to assist in clutch pedal stiffness. I wouldn't remove the booster myself... but some probably have with no ill effects.
    I did this one, along with a bunch of other deletes:



    (Thanks Pete!)

    Now I'm wondering if I deleted the booster or not. I didn't realize the reservoir and booster aren't a single system.
    1995 VR4 Coupe

  9. #39
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    You rid of the reservoir.

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