Torque plate during honing?

I was discussing a future engine build with a local engine shop and they asked me a question i didnt know the answer to... Do i want/does the engine require a torque plate when honing? I guess some engines cylinders distort once the cylinder heads are bolted on so these torque plates simulate a cylinder head / cylinder distortion during the honing process.

I told the builder that i have never heard of that so im not sure. He said since its a hell of a thick iron block it may not be needed but might be a good idea.

any opinions?

Torque plate for bore/hone is never a bad idea, though some blocks are more susceptible to distortion than others.

Put it this way: If they're offering it, I'm taking. :)

Do they have a torque plate for these engines? Last I heard there were only a couple in existence. I borrowed one from a friend that had it specially made to do my last 6G72. I'd imagine a good majority of these engines are built without one.

It can never hurt, but our blocks are very stout, and don't move around when torqued, so it's really pretty redundant for us. I've worked on some aluminum motors that would bind the crankshaft until the heads were torqued....

The local machine shop I use has one for a 6g72 but they are pretty rare. I've never actually paid them to use it.

Ask Ray about it but he'll tell you that they aren't necessary on these motors. Our head bolts don't sit close enough to the cylinders to distort it when the heads are torqued down. I could dig up the post if you really want but he has never used one before. We all know how well Pampena built motors do.

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Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth

Ask Ray about it but he'll tell you that they aren't necessary on these motors. Our head bolts don't sit close enough to the cylinders to distort it when the heads are torqued down. I could dig up the post if you really want but he has never used one before. We all know how well Pampena built motors do.

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Yep... I've always had that opinion, and could never get any variation with a dial bore gauge either way, but I did make a point of asking Ray's opinion on the subject before I started publicly saying so on the forums. Nobody wants to be contradicted by Ray unless they have one hell of a strong and defensible position... :)

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Originally Posted by RealMcCoy

Nobody wants to be contradicted by Ray unless they are just trolling

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Fixed.

But yeah, our blocks don't actually need a torque plate.

Thanks for all the help! Im excited to get this rotating assy in the car and i also just found out all my pampena parts shipped out.

3.1L Pampena pistons, Pampena wrist pins, Pampena Billet rods, and an OEM forged crank. Its going to be a fun summer.

I personally own two 6G72 torque plates made by Cecil Yother. Yother plates are renowned for their quality. I install both on every build. It may not make any difference on some/many/most builds, but if it does matter, nothing else will do.Just my 1.5 cents worth.

I can only muster .8 cents, and it's a good thing I know nothing of this plate torqueing witchcraft.

It would likely depend on the head bolts or studs used. My understanding is that Ray's hp recipe many times includes stock bolts with his head lift fix. Add h11 head studs to the block at 100-110 ft/lbs plus arp main studs and you may see some distortion vs stock.

6g blocks are certainly stout. I busted a stock 6g74 rod so bad it broke off my transfer case when it eventually shot through the oil pan. Block was not windowed.

Stock 6g72 rod was bent 45* with (550awtq on e85) plenty of banging around, hardly a scratch to the block.

Probably not necessary to tq plate hone, but if you have access, no reason not to. My local shop won't touch a block without a stress plate. Doesn't matter the make.

I managed to window my 6g..