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Thread: Torque plate during honing?

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    Torque plate during honing?

    I was discussing a future engine build with a local engine shop and they asked me a question i didnt know the answer to... Do i want/does the engine require a torque plate when honing? I guess some engines cylinders distort once the cylinder heads are bolted on so these torque plates simulate a cylinder head / cylinder distortion during the honing process.

    I told the builder that i have never heard of that so im not sure. He said since its a hell of a thick iron block it may not be needed but might be a good idea.

    any opinions?
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    BAD ASS - I've got one Not Verified
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    Torque plate for bore/hone is never a bad idea, though some blocks are more susceptible to distortion than others.

    Put it this way: If they're offering it, I'm taking.
    Ranked No. #1 in initial quality

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    Do they have a torque plate for these engines? Last I heard there were only a couple in existence. I borrowed one from a friend that had it specially made to do my last 6G72. I'd imagine a good majority of these engines are built without one.

    95 Base 3k: 6G74/TT/AWD conversion

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    It can never hurt, but our blocks are very stout, and don't move around when torqued, so it's really pretty redundant for us. I've worked on some aluminum motors that would bind the crankshaft until the heads were torqued....
    Last edited by RealMcCoy; 06-03-2015 at 12:11 PM.


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    The local machine shop I use has one for a 6g72 but they are pretty rare. I've never actually paid them to use it.

    92 3000GT VR4
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    Ask Ray about it but he'll tell you that they aren't necessary on these motors. Our head bolts don't sit close enough to the cylinders to distort it when the heads are torqued down. I could dig up the post if you really want but he has never used one before. We all know how well Pampena built motors do.
    95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth View Post
    Ask Ray about it but he'll tell you that they aren't necessary on these motors. Our head bolts don't sit close enough to the cylinders to distort it when the heads are torqued down. I could dig up the post if you really want but he has never used one before. We all know how well Pampena built motors do.
    Yep... I've always had that opinion, and could never get any variation with a dial bore gauge either way, but I did make a point of asking Ray's opinion on the subject before I started publicly saying so on the forums. Nobody wants to be contradicted by Ray unless they have one hell of a strong and defensible position...

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    Quote Originally Posted by RealMcCoy View Post
    Nobody wants to be contradicted by Ray unless they are just trolling
    Fixed.

    But yeah, our blocks don't actually need a torque plate.
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    Thanks for all the help! Im excited to get this rotating assy in the car and i also just found out all my pampena parts shipped out.

    3.1L Pampena pistons, Pampena wrist pins, Pampena Billet rods, and an OEM forged crank. Its going to be a fun summer.

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    I personally own two 6G72 torque plates made by Cecil Yother. Yother plates are renowned for their quality. I install both on every build. It may not make any difference on some/many/most builds, but if it does matter, nothing else will do.Just my 1.5 cents worth.

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