Blown Turbo(s)?

So I was heading to work, driving normally and all the sudden the car started to shake and wants to die. I pulled over and it eventually dies. I was in second gear going about 15-18mph. I started the car and it seems to run just fine, then I shift into first and tried to drive, it stutters real bad and dies. It eventually crawled to my friend's house which luckily was half a mile away, stuttering, barely make it pass 15mph. I notice that the needle on my boost gauge was pointing at the very max at 14psi, even though I driving very slowly in second gear, couldn't even get over 2000 RPM no matter how hard I press on the gas. The boost gauge needle doesn't drop down even when I let go of the gas, at which the car dies.

So I'm guessing blown turbo(s)? Any input is greatly appreciated.

Info on car:
1994 3000GT VR4, 100% stock, except for clutch.
174k miles, unknown on last 60k tuneup.

It sounds like you either:
a) have a severe boost leak that suddenly arose.

b)your fuel filter may be completely clogged & barely giving any fuel up to the rails.

c)you really pissed someone off recently & they poured something into your fuel tank that's now making its way through your engine.

The stuttering and struggling to get up to speed makes me believe that it will end up being fuel related...As for what specifically is causing it, I'd test for pressure at the rails, replace the fuel filter for piece of mind, & hope that it isn't just your fuel pump dying.

It's not that hard to change out, but if your car was ever driven in the winter or is stored outdoors chances are you'll be dealing with rusty screws, bolts, & fuel lines that all like to break off in the most inconvenient of places.


EDIT: I would think that an excessive boost leak would probably be the most obvious cause for this, so do a pressure test as your first potential solution as it's the cheapest of the three.

Sent from the garage

Thanks for the reply and with so much info.
Pressure test first thing when I get some free time this weekend. I was planning to replace the fuel filter anyways, so that would probably be the first.

I seriously hope its not option "c". I do live in the shitiest neighborhood, 2 cars broken into, some stuff stolen from my yard, and a guy broke into my house while I was upstairs napping in the middle of the afternoon.

you should be able to get high rpm's even with blown turbos no? I mean na cars do. I could get high rpm's with one of my ic hoses completly blown off. About the boost gauge no idea. Idk sounds more like fuel or engine problems if you can't get high rpms

classic blown off IC pipe.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by anyonebutme

classic blown off IC pipe.

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My money is here also

You also might have a bad connection on the MAF sensor. Had this happen to me once. I pulled over and pulled the plug off them put it back on and the car ran fine after that.

Also the stock boost gauge doesn't actually read boost. It shows what the ECU thinks the boost is at.

That's 3 for a intercooler pipe popping off, I would start wih the y-pipe.

I'm saying y-pipe too. Its scary the first time it happens because it feels like its a catastrophic failure. I remember the first time I took my brother for a ride in my car after I put the 550cc's in and cranked up the boost...

A little tire spin at WOT in first, slam it into second, then a really loud POP and the car gives its "dying breath" and stalls off. My brother is freaking out and starts apologizing and talking about how the car blew up, by this time I'm under the hood reattached the y-pipe, hop back in, crank it up, and look over at him with a blank face stare, haha.

Anyway, get a metal y-pipe with rolled ends, a decent coupler, and t-bolt clamps.

I'm going to say blown IC pipe or loose MAS plug.

Even NA's don't run right when the intake isn't properly hooked up.

let me clarify: stock boost gauge is basically a MAS airflow gauge. When you blow off a post turbo pipe, the turbos are free to just blow air right out, greatly increasing the airflow the sensor reads, making it show max boost while just trying to idle. If it were a preturbo pipe, the gauge would read low or not at all.

as far as I care, the stock gauge is only good for telling you which side of the turbo the pipe came off, lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by anyonebutme

let me clarify: stock boost gauge is basically a MAS airflow gauge. When you blow off a post turbo pipe, the turbos are free to just blow air right out, greatly increasing the airflow the sensor reads, making it show max boost while just trying to idle. If it were a preturbo pipe, the gauge would read low or not at all.

as far as I care, the stock gauge is only good for telling you which side of the turbo the pipe came off, lol.

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:lol:

Wow so many replies, too bad I was too busy over the weekend to get under the hood.
Really hope that you guys are right about the busted IC or Y pipe, cheap and easy fix, instead of turbos.

Thanks guys.

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Originally Posted by BlueVr4

Wow so many replies, too bad I was too busy over the weekend to get under the hood.
Really hope that you guys are right about the busted IC or Y pipe, cheap and easy fix, instead of turbos.

Thanks guys.

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I'm about 99% sure you don't have bad turbos. You would most likely be blowing lots of smoke if they were.

Finally have time to go under the hood. Right away I noticed the Y pipe is no longer connected to the mani. The rubber ring that goes between the end of the Y pipe to the Mani is bad. Guy at the Mitsu dealership said I cant buy the rubber ring alone, that they don't sell them, and that I must buy the whole Y pipe that comes with the new rubber ring for about $150.

I'm sure they sell this rubber ring somewhere. Anyone know whats its call? The rubber ring acts as a gasket that fits inside the big end of the Y pipe then slips onto the mani.

Its not sold separately anywhere. Buy an aftermarket eBay ypipe.

For $150, buy a quality aftermarket one from 3SX...It'll come with a silicone coupler to mate it to the TB + you'll add some useful bling under the hood: it's polished stainless steel with rolled edges that are flared some to help keep it or the hoses from blowing off.

You could even take it one step further & invest in some Mikalor Supra W2 t-bolt clamps so that will guarantee none of your hoses will blow off again.

NEW 91 99 3 0 3 0L V6 VR4 Twin Turbo AIR Intake Y Pipe | eBay

$338 is the cheapest y pipe I found on Ebay, this one any good?

Really?

$45

VR4 3000GT AIR Intake Y Pipe VR 4 Stealth 3" Cxracing | eBay

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlueVr4

NEW 91 99 3 0 3 0L V6 VR4 Twin Turbo AIR Intake Y Pipe | eBay

$338 is the cheapest y pipe I found on Ebay, this one any good?

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LOL!!

for 338 I'd rather buy the full hardpipe cxracing kit....

Somehow my search didn't come up with that. Thanks! I'll order that one then lol.