Bitching about a 4g in a 3000GT

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Originally Posted by anyonebutme

Carbon doors mean cage with door bars, which means not streetable. Anyone who says different has never driven a caged car on the street. Lexan means not a street car and anyone who says differently never dealt with Lexan on a car before. It's enough of a pain on a race car. Not to mention both options are specifically illegal for street use anywhere in the USA.

To put in perspective what I consider streetable, I've driven the car shown above daily before, and driven it to MOD and other ~3 hour trips. I still don't call it "streetable".

3400 is a realistic goal I think, but don't be surprised to have to swiss cheese some things to actually get there. My life got a lot easier once I bought a plasma cutter, and there's a lot of weight in the subframes.

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I completely agree, just stating what I think you would need to do just to *appear* street able. I do not in any way endorse running CF or FG doors without a cage, or using lexan, for a street driven car. My point was more that you would have to make some extreme sacrifices and spend quite a bit to achieve a sub-3k weight. By the point you're done I think that the car would be rather unfun yo drive on the streets anyhow.

I'd rather just do a DSM if I'm chasing low weight goals honestly. While I'm all for wild and crazy engineering accomplishments, makes more sense to start off with something closer to your goals in this case.

Throw some carpet and a dash inside and it will "look" a lot more streetable lol.

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Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4

I'm curious to know how low supras and 300zx cars can get down to with basic weight reduction mods.. that should give us a good idea of how heavy were really are relatively.

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Supra's just add power. No need to worry about weight if straight line 1/4- 1mile and street domination is the goal. They also don't have awd, which adds weight and little gain in a straight line, dry surface with tires for intended purpose.

Yeah I hear you..I'm just curious what a basic bolt-on supra weighs with say a 600whp setup.

Think they're around 3400lbs factory, lowest I've heard of locally is at about 3100 (based on scales a truck stop.)

My last stealth was in the 3400lb range and had ac. As mentioned getting under the 3200-3300lb range is where high dollar lightweight parts, and drilling holes in the car comes in. A non sunroof, gutted hatch, crash bar deletes, base model seats, ditching 50lbs of brackets, single shot straight exhaust, and aftermarket wheels gets a 1g stealth around 3400.

There are so many useless brackets on these cars it crazy. There are already 6 large bolts holding the engine to the trans, those sheet metal braces are supposed to do something? A Dsm with 1000hp has no issues with 3 m10 and 1 m8 fasteners.

So in your opinion the transmission stays are useless? Those will be a solid 5lbs. What other brackets are there?

Hard to name them all off the top of my head. But, build a car from a bare frame, and they jump out at you. I can fill a large blue Tupperware tub with them on a tear down.

the parts i removed for my build in the engine bay probably add up to maybe 10 lbs at most. This does not include a/c, abs, original engine stuff (shifter cables, etc.), and other things of the like. Obivously you can see by the pictures i got to remove a TON more. However, if you keep all luxury items, there isn't a huge amount to be saved. If you were to remove power steering, a/c, and cruise control, then upgrade exhaust, intercooler, radiator, headers, wheels, aws delete, bumpers to aluminum, driveshaft, seats, suspension, misc brackets/bolts etc. you could get the weight down pretty well. Car would not be very street friendly though.


http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psaee40236.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...pse4c5e79f.jpg

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Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4

So in your opinion the transmission stays are useless? Those will be a solid 5lbs. What other brackets are there?

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I should have been more clear. I include the deletes I do as useless parts. All solenoids on the firewall and their brackets, clutch vacuum and all its parts, Evap and all its bracketry, brake lines don't need a dozen brackets holding them down, the bs parts between the clutch slave, and master. It's literally hundreds of a couple oz here and there parts, and bolts I always remove. It adds up.

post a picture of one of these engine bays you've done...id love to see it.

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Originally Posted by MDoe8

the parts i removed for my build in the engine bay probably add up to maybe 10 lbs at most. This does not include a/c, abs, original engine stuff (shifter cables, etc.), and other things of the like. Obivously you can see by the pictures i got to remove a TON more. However, if you keep all luxury items, there isn't a huge amount to be saved. If you were to remove power steering, a/c, and cruise control, then upgrade exhaust, intercooler, radiator, headers, wheels, aws delete, bumpers to aluminum, driveshaft, seats, suspension, misc brackets/bolts etc. you could get the weight down pretty well. Car would not be very street friendly though.

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I don't have AC, abs, cruise, PS, aws and I think my car is street friendly. Added a fairly loud 4" exhaust and open WG dump. Only thing I will likely put back in is PS. Carpet, dash and comfy seats make a big difference to me for streetablity.

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Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4

post a picture of one of these engine bays you've done...id love to see it.

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It's not just the engine bay, it's the entire car. The bay doesn't look special at all, the only thing visible at a glance is the missing solenoids. Just the crash beams, and seats are well over 100lbs in savings. I also remove the entire airbag system, sensors, wiring, computer, power steering cooler loop gone, all undertray and associated hardware, less bolts in north south bars, solid mounts save weight, why use 4 bolts to attach the power steering tank, 2 work fine. Also I run non turbo coolant housings, and delete the water lines, and fittings. It's a huge amount of stuff.

Weight reduction isn't like other mods. It's not a few large items that make the mod. It's literally hundreds of small pieces that add up.

To go along with Donnie's mentality...one bolt will hold the coolant tank in instead of three. I'm using one radiator top bracket for aftermarket radiator instead of two (still holds perfectly rigid). Deleted rear wiper. Lots of little brackets with the AC delete and aws delete. Did the PS "cooler" delete when I still had PS. No brackets for engine removal.

Small areas of improvement that I can still do that won't affect "street" status but add up...Still have unused studs to cut off, unused wiring, g sensors. Noticed I missed a couple exhaust brackets that I'm not using. Additional sound deadening to remove (got some out already and carpet does the most which I will keep.)

Hood and hatch are big ones that I already own but haven't spent the time/$ to get painted so I won't install until then.

Wellll..not to sound cocky or anything but im part of the one one bolt coolant tank club already..:suspect:

I agree..after a few big items its the small stuff that really adds up

can't stand missing bolts myself :(

Same here, some how it feels wrong.

missing bolts? heathens. you are all heathens.

Ask any of the Stl crew how many bolts hold my car together.......every now and then the front bumper falls off because only 3 bolts hold it on. Hell I even deleted the hold latch because the hood is pinned on at the 4 corners. I did put some bolts back that close off the underside from inside because dust and smoke would pour into the car, but I'm slowly getting around to welding those holes closed.

If 1 bolt is good, its better to remove the bolt all together and use zip ties.

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Originally Posted by donniekak

My last stealth was in the 3400lb range and had ac. As mentioned getting under the 3200-3300lb range is where high dollar lightweight parts, and drilling holes in the car comes in. A non sunroof, gutted hatch, crash bar deletes, base model seats, ditching 50lbs of brackets, single shot straight exhaust, and aftermarket wheels gets a 1g stealth around 3400.

There are so many useless brackets on these cars it crazy. There are already 6 large bolts holding the engine to the trans, those sheet metal braces are supposed to do something? A Dsm with 1000hp has no issues with 3 m10 and 1 m8 fasteners.

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Just for clarity, what are you using to weigh the car?

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Originally Posted by 95gto

Just for clarity, what are you using to weigh the car?

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I weighed it at a landfill on a certified scale. I was told accuracy was +- 20lbs.

In my defense the fmic pipe prevents me from putting 3 bolts on..otherwise yes it feels very wrong

I'm really liking the idea of using less bolts on the bumper. That's my least favorite part of pulling the engine. A couple dzus fasteners on each side would be even better.

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Originally Posted by familyMAN

I'm really liking the idea of using less bolts on the bumper. That's my least favorite part of pulling the engine. A couple dzus fasteners on each side would be even better.

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I'd just settle for non-rusted bolts on the front bumper personally...That's my least favorite part.

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Originally Posted by sergechronos

I'd just settle for non-rusted bolts on the front bumper personally...That's my least favorite part.

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Wtf is rust?:highly_amused:

It's what happens when the guy you bought the car from, who claimed that the car was a southern car its whole life, turns out to be a liar.

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Originally Posted by familyMAN

That's my least favorite part of pulling the engine.

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I don't understand this.

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Originally Posted by anyonebutme

I don't understand this.

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Messing with the damn bumper. (Bumper gets in way of hoist). I don't know why but every other part of removing and installing an engine is enjoyable. Going to install half the bolts next time:)

Serge, Donnie doesn't have any humidity so doesn't understand this "rust" you speak of. Mine didn't have a spot of rust either until shipping it to Indiana. Then every bolt flash rusted in what seemed like days.

I guess my hoist just has a longer arm, that's what I was missing.

A short arm hoist (1 ton) should reach from the driver's side.

Jeff

I am glad to see this turned back into a bitching thread! :p

Rust? Only happens when the bottle is drop and isn't found for weeks here! :suspect:

I made sure to aquire a long armed hoist. My only bitch is that I have fubr-d my clear coat without protection on it. :(

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Originally Posted by CoopKill

I am glad to see this turned back into a bitching thread! :p

Rust? Only happens when the bottle is drop and isn't found for weeks here! :suspect:

I made sure to aquire a long armed hoist. My only bitch is that I have fubr-d my clear coat without protection on it. :(

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Even with my long arm hoist, I still prefer to take the bumper and hood off just to make sure I don't fuck it up.

Well, my car isn't exactly a show car, lol.

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Originally Posted by anyonebutme

Well, my car isn't exactly a show car, lol.

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Mine either..But money spent replacing a bumper or hood after I put a big hole or dent in it...is money that could be spent on go fast goodies.

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Originally Posted by donniekak

Wtf is rust?:highly_amused:

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It's a tool of satan.

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Originally Posted by familyMAN

I'm really liking the idea of using less bolts on the bumper. That's my least favorite part of pulling the engine. A couple dzus fasteners on each side would be even better.

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I use Dzus fasteners on mine, aftermarket bumper and these make it a 2 minute job to pull the front off (very handy!).

I want 4G auto turbo 3/S

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Originally Posted by familyMAN

Man this thread got all informative and stuff...lol.

I need to weigh my car. My estimate based on stock curb weight (3790) and the items I have weighed with removal is 3411. Full cloth interior but gutted hatch area. Stock hood and hatch. Extra 50lbs for auto but removed 80 for 4g swap. The normal other weight reduction (some sound deadening, vac canister, abs, PS, aluminum exhaust, awd delete, lighter wheel/tire combo, etc)

Pete since you have your car weighed, how does that compare to what you have removed from the advertised curb weight. Does it match?

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Update. Weighed 3300lbs (3500 with me) at shootout. That included my amp rack which is approx 40lbs. Not bad for full interior, full glass, with PS (put it back in) and an auto. Did install a painted carbon hood since last post.

How is this turning out dude? I think the thing that would concern me is the tiny output shaft and transfer case that the DSM has which seems to be suited better for a lighter car, curious what you did about that? Im sure you addressed it somewhere in this thread but I don't want to read all 24 pages.