Hell, I probably took 20lbs of bolts out of my car:). Now you guys have me wanting to go through and check for extra brackets to remove or cut off that I may have missed.
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Hell, I probably took 20lbs of bolts out of my car:). Now you guys have me wanting to go through and check for extra brackets to remove or cut off that I may have missed.
Easy weight reduction: remove dash and cut everything off the dash bar......reinstall dash with just the 2 upper bolts. Its flimsy but its there. You lose more weight by cutting out theentire dash bar andwelding in a new bar with anew shaft support.
which are all these brackets are you talking about? :) I'm all for ditching weight where I can. really need to do the gutted hatch thing too!Quote:
Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy
if you're really serious about weightloss then 1g headlights are really heavy. front aa is pretty heavy too. there's always the front aa simulator..Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
both of these items are far in front of the car which affects handeling the most.
I'm not really serious about weightloss. I'm really serious about the whole package, which includes having 1g pop ups and AA. Did you not read my post? I spent time to answer the question; apparently wasted time.
Edit: I keep AA up front for the downforce and the little bit of undercarriage sealing which I believe helps with cooling. Combined with my extractor vent in hood, I have a good combo that keeps intake and coolant temps down.
Edit2: I kept foglights also;)
I think if you cut the headlight bucket under headlight you'll save some weight there. You can also use it for cold air intake too.
I wonder what the car weighs on each axle?
I wonder how much more front heavy these cars get when the "easy" stuff has been removed which is almost all behind the front seats..
Jason
That was on my list of things to try but I ended up putting the intake in the smic location for front turbo when I was twins.Quote:
Originally Posted by mehrshadvr4
I thought we were supposed to be bitching about a 4g swap here. How did this turn into a weight reduction thread?
this thread is a sandbox, we can make it anything we want it to be. just add some water and you've got some wet sand to start forming it to what you want it to be. tread lightly, though. there are bigger kids who like to stomp on the creations of others because they're big stinky doo-doo heads.
Point was my car is a tin can and weighs over 3300 on my race scales ready to go. Yes you can hit 3200-3300 and keep A/C and heater core and blower motor and radio and carpet, ect, but easy it is not.
And to think all my work will be for naught once the cage goes in, lmao.
See this is why 3/S forums are so borings.Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Big builds consist of bolt on td04 turbos with cheap internal upgrades.
Making a new thread for doing 120k service.
Hype threads always end up unfinished
Groupe buy for expensive and special made parts end up with buyers backing out.
Guys can't figure out why they can't break in to 11s with their TD05 turbo setups
Owners end up selling the cars because they are tired of fixing what was not fix correctly from the beginning.
Teenagers end up parting out the car or selling it for cheap because cost too much to fix it.
People ask for suggestion what is wrong with their car instead of taking it to a shop to get it fix.
Bitchin Threads end up going off topic. lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by donniekak
I don't think that target is as easy to hit as what is being suggested. I could see the smaller engine helping things but I don't think a 3300lb car is a simple task if it is to retain things like an interior, ac, etc. I'm not saying you couldn't do it, I just don't think it is a simple thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
My car has the bulk of what was on that list and still weighs around 3575 lbs without me or any fuel, right around 3900lbs with me and full tank of fuel. Now I am a full interior car with AC and even an upgraded stereo, so there are some key areas to shed weight however there is still 275lbs you would need to shed to hit the 3300lb target. If your figures include a full tank of fuel you would have another 110lbs to lose on top of the 275.
And since Jason was curious, here are the axle weights for my car for a frame of reference (weights include me and 1/2 tank of fuel ):
Front = 2177 (57%)
Rear = 1675 (43%)
If I add in the missing the fuel the numbers get a hair better at 56/44. Luckily my cross weights are much nicer at 51/49.
Now just for grins, if you pull an extra 200lbs off the rear, which as noted before would be where the potential additional reductions would come from, your new numbers would look something like this:
Front = 2177 (60%)
Rear = 1475 (40%)
I would give serious thought to relocating as much weight off the front to the back as possible.
You are forgetting I had a 3350lb car with ac and interior. Maybe it was easier because it was a first gen stealth?
1st gens were heavier right?
95gto what have you done for weight reduction?
I'm at 3660 with stock wheels, stock DS, stock seats and full interior/AC/PS/Sound Deadning/Crash Bars and 1/4 tank gas
Should I just remerge the threads now that the bitching is over?
I think it was just big mike.... :p
NO, I like the split threads
this is like, the off topic off topic sandbox thread.
just because the waters are calm now doesn't mean that they'll stay
95gto has a carbon hood, carbon drivers seat, possibly a driveshaft, unsure what else.
More importantly, what is everyone using to measure their cars? My car and 95gto was scaled on my race corner scales, and my car was also scaled on a certified cat scale. Because I'm wondering what I haven't done yet to somehow have a heavier car than Donnie even though my car has literally nothing in it. I mean the 6-speed running gear isn't THAT heavier than 5-speed, and the front end is swiss cheesed. I don't even have a gauge cluster. I'm to the point of stripping wiring and cutting holes in stuff.
I'm gonna use 4 bathroom scales to weigh mine.
AdamVR4's car is in the 34xx range IIRC. His car is far from gutted. I had mine down near that, and that's with a 200 lb mild steel cage and aftermarket seats that ended up weighing as much as the stockers. Weighed on a certified scale. I had no a/c, no carpet, gutted hatch (but added a custom firewall where the cargo cover would normally be), no radio, no speakers, fg hood, 17lb wheels, cfds, no sunvisors (lol), cut off all the useless brackets. Still had ecs, abs, aws, all interior panels, all power accessories (doors, windows, etc.), stock dash. No swiss cheesing anywhere.
Jeremy
You guys must have all lucked out. In STL, our cars are all heavy. Maybe that extra 200 lbs difference we seem to have is all the pent up frustration and sorrow our cars have from putting crappy numbers down on Premiere Tuning's Dyno.Quote:
Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy
The elevation is lower in St Louis. There's more gravity because you're closer to earths core. That's why your cars weigh more. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by whitedragon
Works for me. I'm answering questions in both threads anyway. And we have good and related discussion in both. But doesn't really matter either way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan92RTTT
alright, my time to shine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg E
**geek glasses**
actually, being closer to the earth's core would result in weighing less. with less matter between you and the center there is less gravity created. higher altitude, more matter, more gravity.
FACT.
**removes glasses**
My list includes:Quote:
Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4
coilovers
lighter wheels (FN01C's)
abs delete
cf hood
Wilwood front brakes
carbon/kevlar driver's seat (power rails though so only about half the typical weight savings from stock)
Full ss exhaust (ATR catback)
Front crash bar delete
And various small things like adjustable toe arms, EK2 mounts, vac reduction (lines, solenoids, reservoir, charcoal canister), antenna delete, and a number of unused brackets on the motor.
Sources of weight increase:
MMS splitter ~30lbs
Custom Stereo Install <75lbs (this includes equipment and sub box)
I would wager that with a CF hatch and lexan rear windshield the 3300lb target can be met, but for a typical 3/S with nearly complete interior and ac it will be quite tough. The major concern will be making an already iffy weight distribution worse by taking lots off the back and not a lot off the front. I don't remove my spare tire or stereo equipment for autocross due to it improving my distribution.
Chris may be on the right track with the measurement device being the culprit. I want to say that when we corner balanced Scott Johnson's car that it weighed more than what it showed when he was on a certified CAT scale. And since Chris's scales weren't the first ones I used I don't think the race scales are the ones that are off.
I have about that many deletes and weight reductions done. My car weights just under 3400 without me in it according to the tech scales at an NHRA track. I still have plenty left to do if I wanted most of which being chopping away with small weight reductions but outside of no A/C or cruise control my car is full luxury. 95 and 96 Stealths didn't have most of the tech from earlier years or 3000GTs so that also helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by 95gto
I weighed my car at a local metal scrapyard. My brothers Mustang was also weighed...if I add up all the stuff that's been removed from the car, it comes out to about ~100lbs. Which makes my weight number of 3660 realistic.
A Hood, Aftermarket Seats, Wheels and AWS Delete should knock off another 120-150ish lbs, right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitedragon
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95gto
Don't know what to tell you Mr. Dragon.Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth
Jeremy
I think my straight 3" exhaust with no muffler weighed about 20-30lbs total. Also no sound damping material under the carpet, those stupid engine stay brackets, gone. Maximal solid mounts, non sunroof car. It all adds up. Or should I say, subtracts down?
I'm already working on another build, for another stealth. Same story, gutted shell to start with. This time I'm going to add a carbon fiber hood, and abs delete into the mix. I'll shoot for 3300 even, with ac.
I'll go down my list while I'm thinking about it:
2G Stealth:
Carbon hood
lexan roof panel
gutted interior, power windows still, no speakers or radio or anything but seats, ECU, and a couple aftermarket gauges inside
solid mounts
no AC, no heater core, no blower, just firewall
cruise delete
sound and heat insulation delete
ABS delete
AWS delete
SRS delete
had CFDS
bumper delete
single shot exhaust, catless
had coilovers
lightest 18x9.5 wheels I could find that didn't cost $3K a set
Conti challenge slicks
lots and lots of removed brackets and stuff
big brakes were a wash weight wise, my 355mm just about same weight as stock brakes.
FMIC which saved a bit of weight
gutted headlight intake
splitter gained some weight back
wingless at the time
NA brake booster
vac reduction and deleted everything I could
no washer tanks
fog light delete
fender plastics delete for whats that worth
fixed back racing seats mounted solid, no sliders
small things like crank pulley, alternator tensioner delete
really light steering wheel, lol
I'm sure I'm forgetting more. Still couldn't break the 3K lb raceweight barrier. Time for more carbon, more lexan, and more holesawing.
I don't buy it. If that were the case, then people in DAYLIGHT should theoretically weigh less than people in NIGHTTIME...because the sun is exerting greater gravitational pull on the sunny side (the side facing it).Quote:
Originally Posted by sketch
Are you sure thats not the case?
No no no... You got it all wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by IPD
The proof that there's more weight closer to the earth is the same reason there's more air in the lower elevations. :lol:
My car is a 95 so I don't have the extra weight of the pop up or glass lights. And the active exhaust motor and module is not present. I do still have the front AA motor sans assembly and the rull rear AA setup though.Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth
Did they have standard race scales with one scale per tire or was it just one large pad?
The list below suggests there is something going on. Maybe I'll get good news and find out the scales read high. I like the idea of free weight savings, however that damned Murphy tends to make things go the other way.Quote:
Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy
I wonder how much Pete's car weighs, his car is also pretty stripped down with the addition of a cage.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
And per this thread:
http://www.3sgto.org/transmission-su...s-correct.html
garage link to car here:
3000GT / Stealth / GTO Forum - VB Pro Garage
Erron's car weighs 3318 fully race prepped. The point of the OP in that thread was to compare chasis to chasis, so I don't think that number includes a driver and I'm not sure how much fuel would have been in either vehicle. Now the car does have a pretty substantial cage but does it weigh the same as the full hatch forward interior with working AC and metal doors and fenders?
I also noticed that Erron notes his tech/race weight at 3450 on the bottom of his garage page.
[QUOTE=AdamVR4]Quote:
Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy
Not quite:
http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-...tml#post203202
"Today {2012} it weighed 3245 lbs at the end of the night (3266 at the beginning)"
I didn't have to do very much... Not having a sunroof helps some :)
Scott @ Izzy's weighed mine at 3340 with the cage, and he estimated the tubing adds up to ~145. So ~3200.Quote:
Originally Posted by 95gto
here's a list of mods that I haven't done:
window+motor delete (24lb / side)
carbon doors (30lb / side)
steel->carbon hatch (18 lbs)
rear glass-> lexan (12 lbs)
front glass-> lexan (12 lbs)
rear tubular crash bar (5 lbs)
fuel cell (10? lbs)
Other than that, I think I've got pretty much everything deleted/replaced, except for custom suspension arms or subframes.
3200-24-24-30-30-18-12-12-5-10= 3035 without a holesaw or a welder. Also still have most of the stock wiring.
I'm pretty sure jfast is under 3000 with his mods, but i'm pretty sure he's got custom subframe/suspension stuff. Alison is also under 3000 but I know she went holesaw-crazy.
Man this thread got all informative and stuff...lol.
I need to weigh my car. My estimate based on stock curb weight (3790) and the items I have weighed with removal is 3411. Full cloth interior but gutted hatch area. Stock hood and hatch. Extra 50lbs for auto but removed 80 for 4g swap. The normal other weight reduction (some sound deadening, vac canister, abs, PS, aluminum exhaust, awd delete, lighter wheel/tire combo, etc)
Pete since you have your car weighed, how does that compare to what you have removed from the advertised curb weight. Does it match?
I never really weighed anything when I took it off.
Just remembered one more mod I haven't done.
Power steering delete (front pump and manual front rack) = 20 lbs according to JonW.
Car was weighed with only driver seat (sparco side mount) and no wing, so that's already accounted for.
so 3035-20 = 3015
I would say 3000 lbs is the absolute lowest you can go without cutting the frame in any way.