I've contemplated switching the whole power steering system over to braided PTFE lined hoses and AN fittings.
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I've contemplated switching the whole power steering system over to braided PTFE lined hoses and AN fittings.
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PS reservoir is a PITA, and my rubbers are about to expire i think. And if you've got to spend the money to replace the rubber lines anyhow, its not a huge premium over that to go to the AN lines and fittings. Plus I'd like to shrink the reservoir down to relocate it into the wheel well or similar for space purposes and upsize the PS cooler up front.
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I swapped to a PTFE braided line on my GTI... Sooo much nicer (also a lot smaller diameter so more engine bay space!) and will last way longer than the car will.
Indeed, PTFE lines ftw. to relocate PS reservoir, options are basically cut the body around the shock tower and put it inside that frame area or mount it on the other side of the bay where the battery used to be. Washer reservoir has been deleted so the battery will either be lowered in the bay, or relocated to the trunk. Given that I plan to run PTFE lines anyhow, leaning towards doing the passenger side of the bay and then running the PS cooler to a real cooler on the front of the car in front of the AC condenser, probably in a tube and fin style so as not to disrupt the flow or change the pressure much.
I did a little bit more sound deadening in the car yesterday, basically the passenger footwell area, but it was hard to do much because with the rain that meant leaving the doors and stuff shut and the fumes from that glue were insane. Right now I just have the sound and thermal insulation down, contemplating if I can squeeze a closed cell foam over the top of it without effecting fit of the carpet too much..In retrospect, I should've just cut out the large squares in the footwell that were empty space and put closed cell foam in there before welding it back up. Oh well.
Spent time trying to fix leaks on the garage by asphalting the roof but it started raining almost as soon as I finished and I still had 2 leaks. So next weekend I will be doing more asphalting up there, plus new screws for the roof to help hold it down better since a lot of these have come loose over time and the wood underneath is too far gone to save.
Also measured some stuff out..Leaning towards upsizing the radiator (possibly for a dual pass style) while I've got it apart, however with the TD05s, space is already limited so I want to lean the radiator and condenser forwards to give a bit more space, and duct it to vent out the hood. Should completely alleviate any temperature concerns and help keep the engine bay cooler. Could just go with the 3SX dual pass, but I can do it for cheaper by doing my own thing and customizing stuff. If I can't get a decently priced and sized dual pass or single pass, then I will probably go with the 3SX single pass just for the larger capacity.
I was considering installing one of those ps coolers from jeeps like this but longer
http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/...wibble/171.jpg
In other news I installed some new brakes and a drivers side axle after mine took a dump.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps40zo3vpq.jpg
Also pulled apart my pass side 1G 3000Gt foglight to get some condensation out of it and reseal it. Never seen a pic of the internals so I grabbed a few.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psxtwgo7ub.jpg
Made an AEM cold start and hot start results vid.....
Self tuned. AEM series2. 4g64 swap. E85.
Cold start.
I may tweak a little more. Actually want it to not start so fast when cold, so it can build a little oil pressure first. (thanks donnie for the idea.) Idle target slowly starts to drop as it warms which you can hear at the end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KH6VnfWWkc
Hot start.
Phone ran out of memory so it cut off too soon. It would've showed that the AFR settles in at 14.6-14.8. Start time is right where I want it. I can make it start quicker. (I turned the sync early option off.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KH6VnfWWkc
Haven't spent a ton of time on it since everything tuning related will change very soon...turbo, cams, compression, injectors and maybe intake mani.
Don't be afraid of AEM Series2 3Sers. You can do a base tune on your own and get the drivability nailed for your setup. Then take it to Ray for a good dyno power tune.
Oh, I also bought a bnib 7blade HX40 (69 lb/min) and a used 18cm2 twin scroll housing to go with it.
Got my injectors in a few days ago & finally turned up the boost yesterday. Got to 14psi before the stock clutch started slipping in first so I turned it down to 13. Now I have a heavy vibration during hard accel in first & second, almost feels like it's from rear. Also does it during brake boosting. I'm thinking clutch or the fact that afrs are stupid rich right now. 10:1 at wot lol. So tomorrow it's getting fresh oil and less fuel. Hoping to get this issue solved soon.
Excited to see how that works out for you, even on the 14B honestly was better than I expected. I'll have to take another trip out there once it's done and check it out.
Because I'm front mounting my PS and oil coolers, I was leaning towards something like http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/200/259/259-13314.jpg
Width: 17-1/2"
Height: 10-1/4"
Depth: 3/4"
Costs: about 50 bucks.
Given how thin this is, I'm not worried about heat effecting the radiator and condenser, especially if I end up upsizing the radiator.
Today I worked on pricing out more AN fittings for the waterneck. Going to try to replace the heater hose fittings with AN fittings with a provisions for a small line to go to the FIAV and make those AN lines, maybe even quick disconnect fittings to quickly remove the TB and plenum without getting coolant everywhere. Will need to figure out a way to braze or weld fittings onto the heater core though, so that requires thought and measurement to be sure. Hesitant to spend money till the machine work is done for the block.
It's much better now. Slowly adding timing and it loves it. When we drove it, negative timing values with anything above 15psi at peak tq and not much below that. Also didn't help having boost cut that we kept hitting every time I breathed on the throttle (had no idea this little guy would keep trying to spike so high.) I've raised my boost cut up to 23psi now. Still haven't done a full 3rd gear pull, but I don't think it will creep above 23. Definitely hits 20 though.
It's tuned pretty well below 5k. Haven't had a chance to go above. Good timing numbers below 10psi and it is VERY responsive. 2.4, 9:1, e85 and insta-boost move this 3500lb hog around really well. Really need to restrain myself and get it to my new house before toasting a head gasket or worse and have to tow it there. Keep in mind, this is on a hacked together $500 longblock, including the intake, turbo and all of the accessories. I don't have a ton of faith in it.
Still have a small oil leak that is driving me crazy. If I can find and fix that, I'll give the 14b hell for awhile.
All the cool kids have 14Bs :suspect:
Without a dyno to back me up I still say you're probably between an NA DOHC and a TT for power.
But definitely try to avoid destroying it before you move. Unless you snag and build a new motor on the side before then.
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Prob between stock TT and bpu TT now. 20psi on a 14b is right in it's sweet spot. That's around 275whp on gas on a 2.0. I'm on e85, 2.4 and more compression, but conservative timing. This little guy should have 325awhp in it when I give it a couple more psi and some timing. Not there yet.
Twin 14bs would be fun;)
I can't help myself:D. I've been very restrained compared to normal. Have around 100miles on it so far. Between the auto and quick spool it has instant boost and power. Just begs you to give it a little more throttle! My 10 year old was at the track last weekend with his friend and his dad's e85, nitrous, small block malibu. He's begging me to take the 3000 now. 14b powa! :suspect:
I don't feel like taking the timing cover back off right now. The car is all in one piece now and we close on the house next week and move in the 26th. Trying to keep from starting a project; never know where the rabbit hole takes you. Have a new steering rack in the hatch also. Pulled the PS belt so I'm rocking manual to keep from throwing PS fluid everywhere.
Clear timing cover fits under the hood! (support ribbing removed)
Glad that timing cover fits.
Its crazy how much power that little bastard engine of yours makes. 4g64 rwd swap anyone? :suspect:
Today I redid the asphalt on the roof of the shed that I'm working out of, and wrapped up the sound deadening on the floor. Going to have to trim it just a bit on account of the sound deadening throwing off everything slightly. Going to keep going with the deadening back into the hatch area and inside the doors. Probably put some on the backside of interior panels as well.
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RWD would be sweet, but that's a lot more work.
Just came back from a fathers day blast down the road. Turned knock control off. Knock sensor was too happy and proud of itself. Car survived. It's begging for more timing and boost above 5k, but that can (should) wait.
Interesting that I am running mid to low 11's afr on e85, spiking 22psi between shifts, .025" plug gap, stock coils, VERY low timing (low single digits at boost peak) and no DLI and it lights off just fine. 6g would fall on it's face without a dli and that rich on e85. Wonder if it's the coils, the smaller engine bore or both.....
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/16/u9aradug.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/16/u5yhyhu8.jpg
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Man that interior looks like it came from a pretty awesome car;)
Please tell me the painted blue trim is on the checklist to fix:D
Perhaps eventually. Low priority to say the very least lol
Th digital cc is going to be replaced with a diamante unit, dash will be recovered and trim will likely be repainted black or dipped carbon fiber. Still very much in the air. Going to get the car running before worrying about that though.
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Freshened up the caliper paint on the Stealth today (I beat them up pretty bad when I changed rotors a few weeks ago)....
Bob. :)
Welcome back. And you even went with the best......1g VR4.
I've got enough painting to do already. Whole car is going to get resprayed once I've done the welding for the 2g swap up front. Interior just needs to be functional for the time being.
I'm leaning towards flokking the dash and getting these trim pieces hydrodipped carbon fiber.
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Eh, not a fan of fake carbon fiber.
At least hydrodipping is better than vinyl "carbonfiber"
Replaced my relay for fuel pump hotwire and also soldered in a relay connector instead of using individual spade connectors. Damn car has tried to strand me twice this weekend. Fuel pump shut off while driving. No idea why or really no idea why it came back on this time. Relay connection is definitely solid now, so if it happens again, I'll look elsewhere.
Started the bitch.
We had a mini meet yesterday for John (RuralGTO) and his wife Phyllis from Austrailia.
They are amazing people, it was an honor to meet them.
Pics from my phone, looking forward to others posting up their pics!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...10017722_n.jpg
https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...02627670_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...44337681_n.jpg
https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...04858251_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...09351696_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...86307247_n.jpg
-John
If you look closely you wkll see John had a hat made up that says Rural GTO. I'm surprised he didn't buy a 3/S to drive around in when he was there.
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Cussed at it as I walked past it to go to work.
Drove it and prayed it would get me to NG and back.
Did some more playing and logging, I'm only around 15psi with a spike to 20 with upshifts (auto is weird like that.) with the additional timing at spool up, it's not acting like antilag so boost doesn't spike as high.
Idle to 4k. Very "punchy." Power drops hard after 5k though. Have to admit, after doing some pulls to mid 6k, I don't think it would match a stock vr4 1/4 time right now but it's still fun'ish.
Really considering patching it up and hitting the local 1/8 before upgrading. Already started upping the WG duty cycle after 5k to flatten out the boost drop.
Dropping off the VR4 to the new house this weekend so the gloves come off soon.:D
What are you going to patch up Eric?
Track down remaining oil leak. Replace steering rack. Maybe fix head. It pushes a little coolant sometimes. Has a deep gouge or crack right where fire ring should seal on number 3. I discovered when I had it all apart but knew this was just temporary until I move so ran with it.
I can get it welded and surfaced or just find a replacement head since they are inexpensive. Or try my Dad's advice and JB weld it if I am replacing head anyway with a bigger build. True DSM spirit!
Like I said "patch it up." All of this could be accomplished in a day so I can beat on it until winter.
That sounds like a fantastic idea...sounds like a lot of work but if you could get it all done quickly, having that thing running and WOT-able for the rest of the season sounds like a step in the right direction!
Getting those fluids changed.....(brake and coolant)
Attachment 6894
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The stock hood def > angry eye hood....glad that debate is over...(for me at least...:p)