broke my engine in on straight 30w oil...no issues here.
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broke my engine in on straight 30w oil...no issues here.
The additive is for my neighbors stang, he swears by it. I don't argue. This engine has been broke in on dyno oil drove about 150 miles. The bearing tolerances are as they were when assembled, not the issue. All is as it should be. I only got the squirters due to the couple that opened at higher pressures. The only thing that could cause the pressure issue is the pump/bypass. Everything else checks out perfect. There must have been some debri holding the bypass open or the grooves in the pump housing are enough to be the issue.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps4775d2c9.gif
Late but in for your issues being fixed!
It is time to get back out there. I am about over my disgust, and have healed now.
Thanks to April, and her epic polishing skillz I have new motivation...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/ap...-=w981-h552-no
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/AC...8=w981-h552-no
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/jJ...q=w981-h552-no
I have a days worth of shop organizing/cleaning to prepare for the engine assembly. Hoping to get the rotating assembly together Sunday.
Is it safe to come back in :inout:
Shhhhhhhhhhh, don't make him angry!
Damn Coop, how did I miss all of this....
I just read through the last few pages to get up to speed on things.
Seeing the oil pump housing with the grooves in it really worries me. Those grooves should not be there and I'm guessing is a main factor to the oil pressure problem. those grooves would prevent the oil pump from building the vacuum needed to pull the volume from the pan to get the oil pressure up, which is why when the RPM's increased the pressure didn't. The pump didn't have the vacuum it needed to pull the oil. See those grooves as a vacuum leak.
The oil squirters are also problematic. it only takes one faulty one to cause pressure problems and seeing your reading all over like that points to an issue. Those were a number one thing I made sure to replace on my engine build. Sucks that those damn little things are almost $15.00 each!! O.o
I think the combination of both is what caused the issues, but more, what caused the grooves...
I find it a little odd that your oil pump has grooves and you pulled bearings with the same groove. You mentioned the crank was done but the oil galleys balls where not removed. Here is my synopsis of the events.
- During the cleaning of the crank, something stuck up in the oil galley ball areas was loosened. Since the oil galley balls were not removed and replaced the debris just sat in there, now loosed up from the cleaning and polishing.
-When the engine was put back together the debris came free when the oil pressure hit it and it started flowing with the oil.
-At this point the debris probably ended up back in the pan or portions of it caused the grooves in the bearings you pulled. guessing it was a soft metal since it doesn't look like it damaged the crank. Maybe Babbitt from an old bearing or something or a ball of crap from the crank being polished.
-the debris made it's way into the oil pump and got lodged between the gear and caused the grooves.
My guess is that if you sent your oil off to get analysis they would have found high traces of aluminum in the oil sample from the oil pump.
Then again this could have happened with the old motor and been present the whole time and the bearing could have gotten grooved from loose crank debris.
When my crank was turned and polished I had them pull the galley balls after they cleaned the crank from machining it. what we found was amazing and I wish to this day I had my phone with me to take pics. There was soo much shit still sitting in those galleys it blew my mind. Machinist was a little shocked also and felt bad as he thought he did a good job cleaning it. he had a befuddled look on his face. We decided then to tap the holes and use set screws to reseal the oil galleys. Also hit it with Threadlock red and peened the ends of the holes so the set screws can;t back out.
I think replacing the oil squirters and pump will resolve the issue as everything I have seen looks fine. The oil squirters are easy to get in and out. From the piston top side get a metal rod big enough to fit inside the squirters hole and tap them out. Then tap the news ones in through the crank side until they don;t move anymore. be sure to use slight taps and not hammer them in as you can bust them or deform them if you hit them in too hard.
They spray the shit out of everything with brake cleaner. I mean soak it till it's dripping on the floor to flush off anything sitting on the metal parts from installing the squirters. When you get everything re-installed then get a cheap conventional oil. Break in is done so you don't need to do it again. Fill it with the cheap oil, start it up, let it run for about 20-30 seconds check your idle oil pressure. Turn it off and do a full oil change. That should get anything loose from the rebuild out. Do it again with the same cheap conventional oil and this time let it run till it gets to temp, then do another full oil change. you should be golden then.
And remember, it's just a machine. Anything can be fixed with patience and knowledge. :)
Forgot wife might have plans for my birthday so no shop was seen... :(
Well happy b day and....... Get back to work!!!
She is on the schedule again! Lots going on in many departments, but she will get attention once again
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