Anyone seen my reverse gear? I can't seem to find it.

[jba3]

Or rather, I can't get it to stay.

Once out of maybe 25 or more times, reverse would pop out of gear when I would lift the clutch. I'd clutch in, neutral, 1st gear, reverse, and it'd be fine. However, this time it's been 2 days and reverse has not worked at all - I've had to push the car.

All other gears, 1-6, work fine and no grinding. I can't tell if the 6spds have a reverse synchro or not, though I've seen info on the 5spd on Stealth316.

I checked the usuals - it's 100% stock so I don't think anything is hitting the arms, and I don't visibly see anything that would. I tried adjusting the linkage under the shift boot without any luck.

I can get into reverse fine. It just grinds slightly then pops out. It isn't that I'm not in reverse, since my other 6spd works fine, so I know I am not derping.

I may try putting it in reverse and then popping the cables off, and I also saw a TSB for one part on the top of the trans, so I may try that if popping the cables still makes it pop out of reverse. I wanted to post here for any updated thoughts or suggestions - almost all the info I found was 06 and prior.

[anyonebutme]

Yes, 6-speeds have a synchro reverse.

If you hold back while slowly letting up the clutch, does it "pop" into reverse or kick you out?

[jba3]

Yes, 6-speeds have a synchro reverse.

If you hold back while slowly letting up the clutch, does it "pop" into reverse or kick you out?

It kicks itself out, but the shifter doesn't go into the normal neutral position, it goes about half way.

[BaadVR4]

I know you say you've checked all the obvious. That said, I've had this problem on all three of the 95 VR4 6spds in the family. Two were the result of the counterweight (even after cutting) hitting either the FMIC piping or the lower radiator hose. The third was worn out/loose linkage bushings/mounts on the trans. I recommend complete removal of the counterweight. Or you can put the car in reverse (fully engaged, not running) then loosen the lower radiator hose and twist it until you have clearance. Hope you find the problem.

[MR2]

I have a reverse gear ;) it's in a box in my garage! some JDM Chappy smoothed the syncro's engagement gears doing 180 degree turns!

[J4YK]

I have the same Issue. certainly no clearance issues for me. Bushings are good, im going to try and ajust the linkage and get a ressh spot on the gear that still have teeth.

[jba3]

I pulled the shifter boot and checked the linkage under the console, nothing catching or binding and it feels good going between gears. It just won't stay in reverse. :(


I know you say you've checked all the obvious. That said, I've had this problem on all three of the 95 VR4 6spds in the family. Two were the result of the counterweight (even after cutting) hitting either the FMIC piping or the lower radiator hose. The third was worn out/loose linkage bushings/mounts on the trans. I recommend complete removal of the counterweight. Or you can put the car in reverse (fully engaged, not running) then loosen the lower radiator hose and twist it until you have clearance. Hope you find the problem.

Was the counterweight hitting on a stock car? It's 100% stock, I even put the stock airbox back in (just had a cone filter on it). Hmm... I wonder if that pinched the lower rad hose somehow. I'm going to check on that in the morning.

Hate to ask a stupid question, but do you have a picture of the counterweight? If it's not needed, I don't mind removing it to test how it works without it.

[vr3.9]

Did you check the plate on the trany that holds the shift levers and the bolt on the side that holds it. I've had this issue due to both of these problems.

[Lithium]

Mine was doing the same thing, turned out I was missing half the teeth on the reverse gear. half the teeth as in all 12 teeth were there but only 50% of the 12 teeth. (not really sure how many teeth are actually on the gear but I want to say it was around 12ish).

[jba3]

Did you check the plate on the trany that holds the shift levers and the bolt on the side that holds it. I've had this issue due to both of these problems.

I haven't - I'll check the plate, do you have a pic/description of the bolt on the side you're talking about?

[jba3]

Pulled the stock airbox back off and put the cone filter back in, since it acted up after the stock airbox went back on. It went into reverse fine, and backed it out of the garage first try, no pop, no grind, no fuss. Then I pulled it forwards, and tried reverse again - but no joy. I think it's hitting something else again, possibly moved something when I went into 1st gear, but I haven't had time to look at it further.

The trans seems to be fine, since it backed out first try, it definitely seems to be interference. Nothing hits under the hood while it's off; I'm guessing the motor vibrates a bit (OEM mounts @ 118K) and hits it somewhere I can't see.

[jba3]

Still up for ideas on this. Haven't touched the car for about 6 months. Should I try flushing the trans fluid and see if that helps?

[Primus101]

My 5-speed used to have a hard time engaging and staying in reverse. My reverse lights didnt work either, when I pulled the switch I found out that last 'mechanic' didnt reinstall the gasket for the switch. The switch gasket is needed to set the switch at the right depth. The end of the switch was smeared bigtime from rubbing on the reverse shift rod, almost to the point of spilling its guts into the tranny. I got a new switch & used an oil cooler line o-ring (worked perfect for seal & depth) Never had another problem-

[jba3]

My 5-speed used to have a hard time engaging and staying in reverse. My reverse lights didnt work either, when I pulled the switch I found out that last 'mechanic' didnt reinstall the gasket for the switch. The switch gasket is needed to set the switch at the right depth. The end of the switch was smeared bigtime from rubbing on the reverse shift rod, almost to the point of spilling its guts into the tranny. I got a new switch & used an oil cooler line o-ring (worked perfect for seal & depth) Never had another problem-

I'll try to take a look at mine and see if this is possible, but my trans hasn't been removed or worked on for anything, so I don't think that could be it.

It would go in reverse fine before, and literally just stopped one day. I hadn't driven it for months other than to the body shop for a buff/wax the day before since it was cold/snowy weather, and I replaced the alternator while it was down. I never had to put it in reverse the day I drove it to the body shop, but I don't know what would make it just stop going in reverse from literally just sitting in the garage for months.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

It could be that the syncro is worn very badly, which has caused the dogteeth on reverse to wear away. Now there is not enough teeth to reliably hold and turn the gear and it pops out or fails to engage completey. You probably need a new reverse, slider, and syncro.

[MR2]

yeah, what Forest said..my reverse gear looked horrible when I pulled it out (and it still operated fine)

http://3000gt.com.au/car/Gearset/mushedreverse.jpg

[Unlogic]

I had the same issue with the 6-speed in my 1996 VR4. The reverse gear and syncro were in really bad shape. Finding a new reverse gear and syncro for the W6MG1 took forever and cost me a fortune...

[MR2]

My reverse syncro was fine, the gear itself had the damage and through a stuff up I ended up getting the gear free from Holden (apparently GM have the exact same gear in their cars or something)

[Unlogic]

My reverse syncro was fine, the gear itself had the damage and through a stuff up I ended up getting the gear free from Holden (apparently GM have the exact same gear in their cars or something)

Do you have any more details!? I paid an almost obscene amount for my reverse gear.

[MR2]

well, if you shoot me an email to it@humedoors.com.au I will ask our guy (whom I'm taking my 300m shafts to be installed buy soon) what exact car the reverse gear is out of etc.