Supra content: 730WHP dyno and street pulls

[HellBringer]

Hit the dyno a few weeks back to do some test pulls with the new Gforce ECU w/ 8000RPM rev-limit and stock timing map (old ECU had a 7400RPM limiter and very aggressive timing) on 'mid-boost' due to being octane-limited (Sunoco 110).



729WHP dyno pull -- 27psi:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6WtuVCJA9Y


In-car view:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BFeAZjmnCo


716WHP dyno in-car view -- 26.5psi:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKydsoozY6Q


Street pulls after the dyno -- dead hooks 1st gear on 19" R888's...!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrqbsb3wkWE


This was going to be my 1/2 mile setup (with more boost), but decided to step up to a larger turbine and exhaust housing, which is going on this weekend. New dyno #'s soon!

[HellBringer]

Here is a few video from a few months back at 680ish WHP, since I don't think I previously posted it:




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7cruPJXL6Y

[GTwizard]

Go to "Fusefuel" and get 116 unleaded. Actual is 117.8, but they call it 116.
Keeps knock away like you would not believe.

[Disrupter]

Amazing! Your videos never disappoint. Thanks for sharing!

[HilbillyHomeboy]

Awesome! Man, what a beautiful sound... :loveeyes:

Jeremy

[j2k4]

Awesome! Man, what a beautiful sound... :loveeyes:

Jeremy

Aye - good gawd, Abram. :D

[HellBringer]

Go to "Fusefuel" and get 116 unleaded. Actual is 117.8, but they call it 116.
Keeps knock away like you would not believe.


Never heard of it before, so I looked into it. Not surprising that the MON of their "116" is only 108. Evidently you still can't get a good MON without lead..! RON is a worthless measure and with the large delta between the RON and MON, it skew's the RM/2 to make it look a lot more knock resistant than it is. For reference, VP 110 is MON 107; Sunoco 110 (which I get at the pump locally) is MON 106. I can make about 700WHP on Sunoco 110 before it starts to pepper the plugs. C16 on the other hand is MON 117 which tells you how well it truly performs knock-deterrent wise; as such, that's what I will stick with on KILL mode.

That said, I do believe 108 is the highest unleaded MON fuel I've come across. It would be a good 'street' fuel, but I bet they're pretty proud of it ($$$).

[HellBringer]

Amazing! Your videos never disappoint. Thanks for sharing!


Awesome! Man, what a beautiful sound... :loveeyes:

Jeremy


Aye - good gawd, Abram. :D



Thanks, fellas! :bigthumb: It's an absolute blast to drive and with it dead hooking 1st gear it's untouchable on the street..!

[PearlWhiteR/T]

Always love seeing videos of your Supra. Must just be scary fast if all that power hooks up.

[kywhitelightning]

Nice!!!! C16 is pretty hard to beat when it comes to high octane fuel.

Jeff

[HellBringer]

Over the weekend I replaced the 74GTQ .81ar with a 74GTS with a .96ar housing. Same compressor (with ported inlet) but a 75mm turbine vs 68mm. The combination of the bigger turbine and AR added 400ish RPM of lag -- initial street testing shows full boost around 5000-5100RPM but the turbo still needs to loosen up a bit, and I need to tweak the Gain on the DSBC. The Q turbine was not a great match for the 74mm compressor for peak power, but it was the perfect street turbo, IMO, due to how smooth and linear it pulled. With the S turbine Now it absofuckinglutely RIPS up top, which is exactly what I was looking for. :) The Q would pull hard all the way to 8000RPM but was perfectly fine shifting at 7500 or even 7000. The S pulls to 8000 like the Q pulled at 6000 and wants to keep going. It really needs to be shifted above 7000 for install recovery. It also 'hits' a lot harder, which gives a great seat of the pants feel; the Q was much smoother while the S is violent.

I've got about 1/3 tank of the 110 left to burn up and then the C16 goes in and back on the dyno for some BOOOOOST! :bigthumb:

[familyMAN]

Full boost at 5k+...can't be streetable;)

Subbing for dyno update!

[AdamVR4]

It already looked violent :) ...Any recent engine shots? When is the track date?

[donniekak]

Full boost at 5k+...can't be streetable;)

Subbing for dyno update!

I know, if it doesn't have 20psi at 2500 rpms it's a dog on the street.

[JasonY]

Amazing what gearing that doesn't suck does for being drivable w/o being super responsive :)

Looks awesome Abram! Greg and I are gonna be in Troutman, NC next week getting a Miata for his Exocet project...I wonder how far from you we will be......

Jason

[HellBringer]

Full boost at 5k+...can't be streetable;)

Subbing for dyno update!


I know, if it doesn't have 20psi at 2500 rpms it's a dog on the street.


Haha! I know I'm preaching to the choir here, but people with that mindset will never understand how awesome a trade off it is to accept some "lag" for real top-end. I'll be back on the dyno as soon as I can; hopefully in the next week or so, schedules-depending.



It already looked violent :) ...Any recent engine shots? When is the track date?


This is an older pic, but it's still pretty much the same. Unless the intake pipe is off there's no difference in appearance between the old and new turbo.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/AHPowelson/DSCN5093v_zpsb8d473bb.jpg


As for the track, I will be here on 9/14:

wannaGOFAST - High-Speed Racing - Georgia 1/2 Mile Private Runway Shootout (http://wannagofast.com/clayton.php)


Drag racing sometime thereafter provided it lives through a bunch of 1/2 mile pulls..! This winter I plan on building the motor and going standalone, etc.. and then it will definitely be ON!



Amazing what gearing that doesn't suck does for being drivable w/o being super responsive :)

Looks awesome Abram! Greg and I are gonna be in Troutman, NC next week getting a Miata for his Exocet project...I wonder how far from you we will be......

Jason


Being relatively light with lively gearing makes for a pleasant driving experience off-boost. It's not a turbo you would want to AutoX on, though. However, I can swap turbos - hood up to hood close and not even having to jack the car up - in about 1-1.5hrs if it's cooled off.

Troutman is about 60 miles North of me. I bought my Denali from a guy in Troutman years back. Depending on the time/day, you should make your way down to me if schedules can align!

[familyMAN]

Should be a fun 1/2 mi car! I love the idea of quick turbo swaps. One of the main reasons I'm so excited about my single T3 setup. 60mm now, 58mm in 5 mins or a 67mm 5mins after that.

What cams are you running?

Somewhat surprised to hear you are going standalone. Proefi?

[HellBringer]

Cams are GSC S1 -- overall pretty mild. They're a 269 duration, but have a huge 9.9mm of lift. With them degree'd in the idle has a mild lump to it. Sounds just like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPyLlYKi8lk


As for the standalone, the plan has always been to keep the stock ECU with the stock motor. With a built motor, I'd like to have the benefit of all of the fail safes, logging capabilities, etc... With the VPC I can't really make good, safe power on 93 pump due to the stock timing. I can do mid 500's as-is but I'm just not comfortable doing pulls to the moon on pisswater pump, especially in the heat. E85 is virtually non-existent around here now, so I run race gas exclusively -- either 110 for the street and 110/C16 mix for KILL. With a standalone I can easily make worry-free mid/low 600's on 93 pump all day long with this setup. Also, the VPC's MAP sensor runs out of resolution after 26-27psi; beyond that it will not command any more fuel. I can add additional fuel over that with the AFC no problem, but above 31-32psi you're playing with fire, IMO. An acquaintance of mine used to run 35psi with the VPC and a 7175 making almost 900WHP, but he had more balls than I in that regard. So... The standalone solves the power on 93 pump, and the ability to crank the boost to 11 and rip the knob off on KILL, with all of the other intrinsic benefits.

Undecided on ECU at this point; the V2 box would be sufficient, but I am leaning toward ProEFI, or possibly AEM Infinity. Also still undecided on internals but I'm leaning toward Manley at this point.

[familyMAN]

I like the new AEM. Very intuitive interface and seems like it will do anything I need. I'm sure you would have no problem self-tuning it. Haven't messed with proefi or infinity so can't comment.

I just received my Manley hbeams and pistons for the 2.4LR build. They look good so far. For the rods, they weigh the big end and small and have them marked on box to the tenth of a gram. Not bad for cheap rods. They tout having better machining and QC vs the other cheap hbeams. We'll see when machinist checks them out.

[HellBringer]

Regardless of which ECU option I go with, I'm having it pro-tuned for sure. Same with the motor build -- I'll leave that up to the experienced pros with a name and reputation. I'm considering a turn-key option from one of big names like Real Street or Induction Performance, maybe a few others. Both have a stellar reputation with the 2jz and world class tuners in house, and they're both less than 600 miles from me. I love turning wrenches, and have always done all of my own work and tuning, but when it comes to taking it to the next level, I learned many years ago to leave that for the professionals. I had Dynamic Racing build me a turn-key car over 10 years ago and it made for a very rewarding ownership experience. I daily drove and daily raced that car for years and it ran like a champ every day.

I'm looking at the Manley Turbo Tuff I-Beam rods w/ 625+ bolts and CP pistons. It will be overkill, but I want something I can pound on relentlessly and never have to worry about. Real Street has used that combo in several 1000+ WHP builds and haven't had a failure yet. The new Turbo Tuff rods appear to be a great alternative to the Carillo HD's that all of the biiiiiiiig HP guys have previously used. The only thing I'm really on the fence about is Billet main caps. I don't think they'll be necessary considering I won't be making E85 TQ levels, and I don't plan on making over 1000 anyway.

[CoopKill]

A bit of a sidebar, but what is going on with the 99??? :suspect:

[familyMAN]

Have you looked into aluminum rods? Seems that many supra and evo's are ditching steel I beams for aluminum on high hp and/or high rev builds. Not sure on supra's, but evo's are even logging some serious street miles.

[HellBringer]

A bit of a sidebar, but what is going on with the 99??? :suspect:



The '99 is a fair weather daily driver. Here's a pic on my way out the door to work a few months back:


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/AHPowelson/0423140753ER_zps7cc182c7.jpg



I put a Stillen downpipe on it a few months back and have an RPS clutch and poly mounts that will be installed with a Pampena brace before the fall weather hits. I'm going to add an intake and BOV and see if I can bust into the 11's with BPU mods in good weather. It went 12.5 @ 108 100% mechanically stock, full weight with a mild Chrome tune with the stock/original clutch slipping badly on the launch. I think 12.1ish will be realistically attainable; 11's will probably be as stretch, but we'll see..! As for a bigger build, turbos, etc... That's all on the back burner in light of my pending Supra build.




Have you looked into aluminum rods? Seems that many supra and evo's are ditching steel I beams for aluminum on high hp and/or high rev builds. Not sure on supra's, but evo's are even logging some serious street miles.


I would never consider an aluminum rod for street car/occasional race car, at least in a 2j. Despite with GRP says, IMO, they are just not street-friendly considering the regular tear down and inspection intervals required to properly maintain them. Constant oil temp and pressure monitoring is absolutely essential as well, and the last thing I want to do is monitor, datalog, etc... at all times. It takes a very responsible operator to care for them properly; I want to turn the key and go like the car was stock. Besides, they are an absolutely absurd overkill for what I want to do. Any off the shelf aftermarket steel rod is going to be perfectly sufficient for my goals. Hell, a $500 set of Eagles would be fine for my goals, but I at least want reasonable overkill. 900WHP and 8200RPM is child's play for even a basic off the shelf build, and that's all I would want/need. Enough to go deep 9's in the mid 150's with a killer power band, full weight, AC, cruise, etc.. Swap tires and drive to the beach for the weekend. :bigthumb:

[familyMAN]

Yeah, but....supra's suck! :D

Keep us posted on progress.