Problem with warping my front brake rotors.

[STiedVR4Guy]

Read through about half of that thread. Most of it seems like raging about which is better cross drilled or sloted/blanks and what ones to use for track use.

I am having an issue with warping mine over and over not just destroying them. It does have some good info though thanks for the read ^_^

[GTOJOE]

there is a lot of cracp but there was also talk of the proper bedding in process etc. Unless It's the wrong thread LOL. I'm at work [in Australia] so didn't have time to read through it all to confirm.

[STiedVR4Guy]

Yes but how do you know that they've actually warped?

Do they feel like they've warped? - Yes but I'm not sure of the difference between these cars and other cars because I have not found the solution yet so I can't confirm this.

Did a brake shop tell you? - My dad took the rotors to a shop that does a lot of racing aplications for cars so he trusts them with the work they do and the info they provide. Yes they did tell him the rotors were warped.

Did you put a dial gauge on the disc and check for runout? - No

Chances are that they're not warped. - I agree with you however my reference was to that thread not helping my issue very much as it was an argument about which is better cross drilled VS slotted.

Steve

[HLxDrummer]

Yes but how do you know that they've actually warped?

Do they feel like they've warped? - Yes but I'm not sure of the difference between these cars and other cars because I have not found the solution yet so I can't confirm this.

Did a brake shop tell you? - My dad took the rotors to a shop that does a lot of racing aplications for cars so he trusts them with the work they do and the info they provide. Yes they did tell him the rotors were warped.

Did you put a dial gauge on the disc and check for runout? - No

Chances are that they're not warped. - I agree with you however my reference was to that thread not helping my issue very much as it was an argument about which is better cross drilled VS slotted.

Steve

If the rotors are "warped" as in they are not true then there is a problem with one of the things I mentioned. Hub/flange/break them in/uneven lugnut torque/crappy materials/etc. If you look on the other site under threads I've made there is one regarding things I've thought of that could cause this.

[STiedVR4Guy]

If the rotors are "warped" as in they are not true then there is a problem with one of the things I mentioned. Hub/flange/break them in/uneven lugnut torque/crappy materials/etc. If you look on the other site under threads I've made there is one regarding things I've thought of that could cause this.

Yes I understand this however 3 times in a row and each time within a few weeks of driving leads me to believe that Steve68 is probably correct.

As of right now my plan of action is as follows:

1. Order new pads along with SS lines and new fluid (also the springs in the back of the calipers because mine are gone for some reason).
2. Swap out the pads, change the lines and flush the fluid replace with clean stuff because I need to anyways. Leave the rotors in their current state. IF they are warped I will most likely feel it right away under breaking when I bed them.

IF this does not fix my issue then I will look into the issue with replacing hubs since it may not be a bad Idea with the power I want to make.

I'll keep the thread updated.

[Ninja Performance]

Didn't read the whole thread so may be repeat info

Over torque on lugnuts or un even torque sequence can cause rotors to warp.
More times than not, rotors do not warp from use. They develop uneven deposits of pad material which are more times than not mistaken/mis diagnosed as warping.
Cheap chinese blanks - this is becoming more and more the case. Even what some vendors will charge an arm and a leg for are starting off as chinese cheap metal blanks.

-Chris

[MR2]

I guess you could take the rotors off and take them to a shop to get checked....it'd be the yes or know to end the debate

[Ninja Performance]

I guess you could take the rotors off and take them to a shop to get checked....it'd be the yes or know to end the debate

Trouble is, most shops are manned by 19 yr olds that don't know a rotor from a shovel and will measure it and say - warped, when it is actually deposits. Poor pad run in/bedding in.

-Chris

[Ninja Performance]

Just googled...here is wiki excerpt
Disc brake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Often uneven pad transfer is confused for disc warping. In reality, the majority of brake discs which are diagnosed as "warped" are actually simply the product of uneven transfer of pad material.
Uneven pad transfer will often lead to a thickness variation of the disc. When the thicker section of the disc passes between the pads, the pads will move apart and the brake pedal will raise slightly; this is pedal pulsation. The thickness variation can be felt by the driver when it is approximately 0.17 mm or greater (on automobile discs).

-Chris

[STiedVR4Guy]

Just googled...here is wiki excerpt
Disc brake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Often uneven pad transfer is confused for disc warping. In reality, the majority of brake discs which are diagnosed as "warped" are actually simply the product of uneven transfer of pad material.
Uneven pad transfer will often lead to a thickness variation of the disc. When the thicker section of the disc passes between the pads, the pads will move apart and the brake pedal will raise slightly; this is pedal pulsation. The thickness variation can be felt by the driver when it is approximately 0.17 mm or greater (on automobile discs).

-Chris

Is there a way to "clean" the extra pad material off without damaging the rotor? I believe they are s softer type metal correct?