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Thread: What just happened to my exhaust?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by inperfectdarkness View Post
    i still think it's an exhaust leak; adn probably one on the downpipe. cold pipes will be contracted. when it warms up, i would expect them to expadn; which may "open" or exacerbate any leaks that are present. i'm not necessarily surprised that it's quieter on the highway. could be the increased airflow leaks less because of the velocity. could be the additional wind surrounding it effects it. could be a lot of different things.
    increased velocity would cause a drop in pressure, which would cause the pipe to suck air in, rather than push air out." of the leak"

  2. #12
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    sounds like the baffles have collapsed, the lead foot may have dislodged some baffling but this has blown clear. the wadding used the the exhaust is held by steel mesh (perforated steel) if this has corroded over the year it will no longer hold the wadding that can adn will move into the flow of the gasses.

    make sense?
    3si is dead long live 3sgto.org

  3. #13
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    Have you ever driven one of tehse cars with no downpipe? tehy're slow turds. Turn teh car on, and stick your head under tehre by teh front wheel (or as close to "under" as you can get). If you hear a farting noise, you have a nasty little exhaust leak. I'd be willing to bet at teh flex section. I'd also be willing to bet, that if it is leaking at teh flex section, you have beat taco motor mounts (9 times out of 10, it's teh rear motor mount that's teh culprit). I'd get that puppy changed. A shit rear motor mount will trash even a brand new downpipe in a matter of months...... ask me how I know this
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  4. #14
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    I replaced the stock exhaust on my '92 RT/TT about a month ago with the Ebay M2 exhaust. While removing the stock DP we noticed that it came off with only about a 1/4 inch piece of tubing holding on right before the front flex section.
    Prior to replacing it, there was no indication that there was anything wrong with the stock DP. Stealth has 103,000 miles on it.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by colt45 gto View Post
    sounds like the baffles have collapsed, the lead foot may have dislodged some baffling but this has blown clear. the wadding used the the exhaust is held by steel mesh (perforated steel) if this has corroded over the year it will no longer hold the wadding that can adn will move into the flow of the gasses.

    make sense?
    I believe it does. Where is this wadding? What can I do to clear this up?

    Quote Originally Posted by Emilie@GZP View Post
    Have you ever driven one of tehse cars with no downpipe? tehy're slow turds. Turn teh car on, and stick your head under tehre by teh front wheel (or as close to "under" as you can get). If you hear a farting noise, you have a nasty little exhaust leak. I'd be willing to bet at teh flex section. I'd also be willing to bet, that if it is leaking at teh flex section, you have beat taco motor mounts (9 times out of 10, it's teh rear motor mount that's teh culprit). I'd get that puppy changed. A shit rear motor mount will trash even a brand new downpipe in a matter of months...... ask me how I know this
    How do you know that? Never driven one with no downpipe. Perhaps thats why when its loud and raspy, hp seems a little down. When it was smooth, I noticed a little bit more pick up in acceleration. What signs do I look for on a trashed motor mount? Whats the estimated cost in getting that fixed?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95_GTO View Post
    I believe it does. Where is this wadding? What can I do to clear this up?
    the wadding is in the mufflers, when the mufflers are working right it will create back preassure which an N/A needs. as for it getting a bit more umph when its quiet? i can not explane this unless its getting the right amount of back presssure?
    you need a mechanic to check it over to see exactly whats wrong. forum speculation is never the right answer.

  7. #17
    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by colt45 gto View Post
    the wadding is in the mufflers, when the mufflers are working right it will create back preassure which an N/A needs. as for it getting a bit more umph when its quiet? i can not explane this unless its getting the right amount of back presssure?
    you need a mechanic to check it over to see exactly whats wrong. forum speculation is never the right answer.
    really? REALLY? the backpressure myth AGAIN? roflmfao.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by inperfectdarkness View Post
    really? REALLY? the backpressure myth AGAIN? roflmfao.
    pretty smart aint ya? not really!

    riddle me this.....
    out of three motor bikes i have had and 2 N/A cars all 3 ran worse with straight through pipes on.

    the VFR's actually lost 11 BHP (on dyno's) and run like ruptures with race cans until they was retuned with bigger jets in the carbs and set up right then they gained 20 BHP over stock.

    you can put straight exhausts on cars if you like but its only the noise that makes you believe its actually better, a stock tuned engine will run worse without the right setup.

    for forced induction its totaly different they run better with straight through systems.

    it might be a different story if he had induction and had the car tuned for a bigger exhaust system but a stock setup will fall flat.

  9. #19
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    colt, please....for the love of god...go search for one of the HUNDREDS of ig3pete's posts on the subject.

    backpressure is BAD. delta pressure GOOD.

  10. #20
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    sorry no. i know from expireince i dont need to read about it. like i said. bikes run on dyno's before and after they are tuned for restriction so with full flow they run weak.

    and you didn't riddle me the answer because you can't.

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