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Thread: Where to pull power from for aftermarket gauges...

  1. #11
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    I'm just asking this as I have the gauges but need to pull my dash. 360, you ended up going with the xline gauges, correct? Did you pull 3-way split on the original power wire for the factory gauges? Any problems by doing that? I know, it SHOULD be adequate for the gauges but I just want to make sure before ripping it apart and then discovering that I need more juice :/

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    I actually pulled a 5 way split on 12V IG power, 12V illum power, AND ground. No issues thus far although I haven't tested them for that long.

    The juice isn't the problem. Current draw is. Nothing has blown yet though.

    Vacuum reduction, Powdercoated misc, cruise relocate, Evo9 BOV, Custom catch cans, Russell fuel filter, SS braided fuel lines, High flow fuel loop, Autogage fuel gauge, Catless DP, DNP Y-pipe, Fuel pump hotwire.

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    I just like the add a fuse because I only have to touch one factory wire. With all the crap in my car I've cut/stripped three factory wires. If I ever want to remove the stuff/go back to stock I won't have hacked up wiring/etc.

    Using the dash wires would probably be cleaner though instead of having wires out of the fuse box.

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    Good idea w/adding a fuse to the box and running it from there. Excuse my ignorance here, 360, but what do you mean by "12V IG power, 12V illum power?"

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    Quote Originally Posted by MADMarc View Post
    Good idea w/adding a fuse to the box and running it from there. Excuse my ignorance here, 360, but what do you mean by "12V IG power, 12V illum power?"
    12V ignition is power when the car is turned on. 12V illumination is when the lights are turned on. It dims the gauges so they aren't as bright when it's dark out.

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    12V Ignition Power, 12v dashlight power...
    Same thing I did with my gauges.. I cut off the stock center cluster connector and used those wires to run all 3 gauges in the center cluster. I replaced the stock sending units with the ones that came with the gauges and didn't have to run any wires this way The work like champs. Since I hacked up the center pods from the original gauges I figured cutting off the old connector was ok. I may keep the connector with some of the other parts I have hacked out just in case I sell and someone would want to go back stock again. I know how much a pain it is with the '65 mustang to deal with that many hacks to things :P

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    ^^exactly. The oil pressure and water temp will be utilizing stock wiring. The oil temp, boost (mechanical), and fuel pressure will get their own wire feeds.

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    So you can retain the stock sensor/sender for oil pressure and water temp, hooking them straight up to aftermarket gauges without a problem?
    Kangaroo

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    You can retain and reuse the stock wiring for the gauges/senders but the sending units will have to be swapped out. All senders are matched to the gauges and the resistance in the stock sender will be different than those of the after-market sender. If you used an after-market gauge with a stock sender the readings would not be correct.

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    Ignition and Illumination...durr...my bad hahah. Glad to hear the stock harness works alright then as I didn't want to tie into the rheostat after hearing of people having issues with prosports there and it makes a ton more sense to keep the system in line by converting it all as close to the gauges as possible.
    60% of the time, my car works every time.

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