Oil Pan Dent Fix Saturday

[CoreyB]

I am inclined to leave well enough alone, but on the other hand, want to do what is marginal while its opened up. I do get the occasional tap until its warmed up more and oil gets to the upper engine. Otherwise I am simply getting the dents out and chasing leaks around.

The tapping isnt a bearing its probably a lash adjuster. A bearing will make more noise as it warms up do to the oil thinning out.

[Roybatty]

LOL....okay should I get the PMP clevite kit standard size or go for the well priced Rockauto special??? Or is this something I can decide after I advance from the 9bs & just get the dents out and close this mofo back up for now????

[CoreyB]

Pull the rod cap closest to the trany, if you dont see any copper at all and it apears good then retorque the cap and reassemble.

[speedy25]

I do get the occasional tap until its warmed up more and oil gets to the upper engine.

Thats NOT rod knock. It never goes away and gets worse as it warms up. Save yourself a lot of time and effort and just fix the dent in the pan. Make sure the pan is FLAT before assembly. I rarely remove one that doesnt need a little hammering on the flanges and holes to make it flat again.

-SP

[AdamVR4]

Given your low level of experience with this, I think Corey is giving you good advice.

But, if you're down for a challenge... I'm fairly certain I've got posts on 3Si outlining how you replace bearings (rod/thrust/main) from below.

[Roybatty]

Thanks for the input all. Found some information on it. Rod Bearing Replacement Guides? - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

After gleaning through it, plan to follow Corey's advice and go from there. WICKEDDREW has a straight forward write up on replacing rod bearings if they are showing copper.

[Roybatty]

Ok new plan. After seeing the #6 lower rod bearing>>
and reading up on a lot>> this is a good resource>>DOHC Oil Pump and Rod Bearing Replacement Guide | 3SGuide

I am convinced being this deep into it, I should go ahead and replace the rod bearings, approaching 94k miles. Everything I read says I will need to be doing this in 6k miles anyway. I will save the oil pump for the 120k service =)

Didn't see copper, but obvious signs of wear. Do you all have a recommendation on rod bearings?

Thinking of getting this>>>> King Bearings Engine Bearings Rods Mains Thrust DOHC 3000GT/Stealth*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts There is an option for the rod bearings only. Let me know what you think.

[CoreyB]

That bearing actually looks pretty good. Most people suggest going with Clevite bearings.

[Roybatty]

http://www.nb-cofrisa.com/docs/web_fallos_ing.PDF

Found some interesting reads on this. Okay went ahead and ordered them.

When replacing these bearings, it almost seems like it needs to be clean like a surgical room!

I plan to do the following:

1. clean caps with brake cleaner
2. insert new bearing
3. plastigage (#6 only)
4. If tolerance within spec, clean off plastigage, oil between bearing and crank, replace other bearings.

Will this cleaning be adequate/okay to do for upper bearings also? It almost seems I like I should have a smidgen of oil on the backside of the bearings for them to seat well.

[CoreyB]

Are you doing mains too or just rods ? Rods are easier because you can push the piston up to gain space. The trick is to stay very clean, then you dont need to worry about cleaning so much. Hands and all tools must be surgicaly clean before touching any of the engine internals. Brake clean or carb cleaner work good. Just remember it was clean when you took it apart, dont get it dirty and it wont be dirty.