Beyond clueless

[Mikes2nd]

second gens are okay though...

[dbest671]

Second gen ECU go bad. I was just saying that the chance of his ECU being the culprit is a very slim possibility, but it is still possible.

[3kgt1734]

Alright. Well assuming it isn't the ECU. What would your next guess be for no fuel? MFI? or the actual pump its self?

[GTOJOE]

Pull the fuel line off the FPR [fuel return] and see if your getting fuel flow. You have fuel in the rails but that doesn't tell you if the pump is working correctly. You need to run it and see how much fuel comes out after 30 seconds. There is a formula to work out how much fuel should be flowing but I can't remember it (sorry). Also you can usually feel a slight tick from the injector if it is running so maybe get someoen to crank it over and hold your finger on the injector and see if you can feel any difference.

[Steve '92ES]

try unplugging the ISC and see if it still makes that noise.

Let me elaborate a bit. Bad ISC motors have been known to take out the injector drivers. If that noise you're hearing is the ISC than unplug it and ohm test it before it does any (more?) damage. It's quick, it's easy, it's worth trying.
From http://www.stealth316.com/2-isc-iac.htm

2. ISC servo. Press down on the release lever of the wiring harness connector and pull it off the ISC servo. You may have to wiggle it a little as you pull. Do not pull on the wires. At this point you can test the resistance of the four coils or wait until you have the ISC servo off the throttle body. To perform this test, measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 1, between 2 and 3, between 5 and 4, and between 5 and 6. The resistance should be in the range of 28 to 33 ohms for the original and older models, and ~40 ohms for the most recent model, which is after our 3S cars were manufactured (see http://www.dsmisc.com/). The results for me were 30.1, 30.1, 30.3, and 30.4 (same order as given above) with the ISC servo off the throttle body.

[stealthee]

here in ohio where the temps change from warm to cold just about all ecus are defective after 10 years. a friend of mine is a mitsu mech and this is from his experience

I live in PA and have ven more extreme temps from hot to cold. ECU's don't go bad because of temp fluctuations. My car has around 200,000 miles on it with the original 17 year old ECU and its fine. Thats probably one of the stupidest things I have ever read.

[3kgt1734]

Let me elaborate a bit. Bad ISC motors have been known to take out the injector drivers. If that noise you're hearing is the ISC than unplug it and ohm test it before it does any (more?) damage. It's quick, it's easy, it's worth trying.
From http://www.stealth316.com/2-isc-iac.htm

Thanks. I'll test that tomorrow.

"does any (more?) damage." lol. So if this turns out to be my problem what else has been messed up by it.

[stealthee]

I may have missed it but are you sure it didn't jump time?

[3kgt1734]

I may have missed it but are you sure it didn't jump time?

I pretty sure it didn't jump time. The cam marks on the front head lined up.

...now you got me worried

[Steve '92ES]

So if this turns out to be my problem what else has been messed up by it.

Well, like I said, it can take out the injector drivers in the ECU so what gets messed up? The ECU.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that the problem, just that the potential for damage is great and the test is easy.
If it were my car not starting and the ISC chattering I'd have it unplugged so fast you wouldn't see it happen...

I may have missed it but are you sure it didn't jump time?

I was wondering that myself..

Thats probably one of the stupidest things I have ever read.

I wouldn't say stupid so much as overstated. Temperature does stress electronics, but it's mostly heat that does them in. Here in the northeast where you go from maybe high 80s/low 90s to 20/30 degrees is only a 60-70 degree swing which ain't all that extreme...