Suggestions for engine rebuild?

[CoopKill]

P.S. make sure they don't use a gasket on the oil pan. It will leak. Sealant should be used.

[jbeard1]

Engine has problems, there has always been a tick from time to time, and Ill have to add oil here and there. Its not burning or leaking oil however, so where it is going, I have no friking idea. The valve stems also need to be replaced, as there is a smoke problem. So yeah, it needs to be done. lol.

[CoreyB]

Sounds like a simple refresh job. New rings, gaskets, VSS,lap valves, polish crank, main and rod bearings, oil pump, water pump, complete timing belt kit, and 3rd gen lifters. That should do it.

[jbeard1]

And general bottom line cost for parts? Hell, I have an engine lift myself, and my father used to build engines. How much we looking for, for parts?

[CoreyB]

I used a gasket kit from ebay with MLS head gaskets and I think it was less than $100
Free to polish crank, just emery cloth
Rings are like $100, you need to hone the cylinders but your dad probably has a hone.
Oil pump is $180
Bearings are about $100 or so
I think you can get big bore lifters for around $100
You need a valve spring compressor to change the VSS, I made one with a deep socket, big C clamp and a dremal cutting tool.
Lapping valves will be the cost of the tool plus the compound.
Rockauto sells a timing kit cheap. I used it and liked it. Some will tell you to only use OEM though.

[Amphiron]

And general bottom line cost for parts? Hell, I have an engine lift myself, and my father used to build engines. How much we looking for, for parts?

Will a bad EGR valve cause you to burn oil?
I did a rebuild from Domestic Gaskets, cost 325 for rings, pistons, water pump, king bearings, all the gaskets (upper and lower), timing tensioners and even came with a timing belt but I threw it in the trash and went OEM. Seems to be holding up so far, only got 500 miles on it but after everything it ran me about $600 and ALOT of labor. I would NOT recommended using the manufacturer just yet, maybe in a few years when I have 100,000 miles on the rebuild if I were to do it again I would save a bit more and spend $1000 on parts go all OEM. It don't sound like you have any bearing problems so you're not gonna need a lot of work that job would require.
I would call 3SX and get a quote on them doing this for you:
new rings and cylinder glaze break honing
grinding and lapping the valves and seats
new valve stem seals
... All that should cover your smoke problem.
new cleavite main and rod bearings
99 lifters (bye bye lifter tick)
and mid as well do your 60k service too so
oil pump
water pump
timing belt and all tensioners
and I think if you already have the engine pulled for them you might squeeze out at around 2.7-3k but It will be worth it, another confident 100,000 miles on the engine.

[jbeard1]

Will a bad EGR valve cause you to burn oil?
I did a rebuild from Domestic Gaskets, cost 325 for rings, pistons, water pump, king bearings, all the gaskets (upper and lower), timing tensioners and even came with a timing belt but I threw it in the trash and went OEM. Seems to be holding up so far, only got 500 miles on it but after everything it ran me about $600 and ALOT of labor. I would NOT recommended using the manufacturer just yet, maybe in a few years when I have 100,000 miles on the rebuild if I were to do it again I would save a bit more and spend $1000 on parts go all OEM. It don't sound like you have any bearing problems so you're not gonna need a lot of work that job would require.
I would call 3SX and get a quote on them doing this for you:
new rings and cylinder glaze break honing
grinding and lapping the valves and seats
new valve stem seals
... All that should cover your smoke problem.
new cleavite main and rod bearings
99 lifters (bye bye lifter tick)
and mid as well do your 60k service too so
oil pump
water pump
timing belt and all tensioners
and I think if you already have the engine pulled for them you might squeeze out at around 2.7-3k but It will be worth it, another confident 100,000 miles on the engine.

Thanks for the time you took out to write all of that up. Ill have to give em a call in the morning

[Amphiron]

You may want to check into getting your crank balanced as well but you didn't spin a bearing so I don't really think its necessary.

[MaxClass]

You can never go wrong balancing the bottom end. I was amazed at the amount of metal that needed to come off of rods and crank to bring everything into proper balance when done correctly. When a performance shop gets done with yours you will be too and the cost is cheap for the return on investment.

[CoreyB]

I have seen some respectable builders claim balancing is not necessary. Especialy if you use stock rods,and pistons. IDK just what some good guys have said.