Widebody VR4 Build

[futurevr4man]

BAH! More issues. More updates.

I've spared you all my frustrations with my alignment issues, but yesterday I went back to the shop and had them re-do my alignment. Still only 90% happy, but I digress...

Some history and what happened: The car has been progressively getting leaner at idle. Especially when it warms up, which is counter intuitive due to air being warmer when entering and thus not as dense. Even in the stock ROM, fuel is added on cold start and taken away as engine temp increases. When I did my first pull in it, it felt slow. Really slow. Log did not have a steady AFR but recorded rich (low 11's). Just acting odd.

I drive it yesterday to the alignment shop and it's running pretty lean. Fuel isn't coming in like it usually does when pressure builds (I wasn't flooring it or anything, just building some positive pressure). I get to the shop, the car doesn't want to idle when it's started up /embarrassing.

After alignment, I drive car around a bit (a few miles) just to see what it feels like. Gets worse. I flash 2 more times, adding fuel at idle each time. No change. By this time I'm concerned and head home (I was about a mile away). Car is extremely lean when cruising home. Like 18:1 lean. Barely wants to idle. Really being a butthole.

So my assessment is a fuel issue. It's suspicious that all of this started when I put the DLI on, but I don't think that's my issue. I mean, it could be I suppose... but due to it getting progressively worse every time I've started the car, and then working its way to undriveable... the DLI wouldn't get worse. It might be bad but it would be consistently bad. I'm somewhat confident in my fuel concerns.

Attack strategy:
- My fuel filter is a Russell with a 10 micron filter. Supposedly ok for E85 (I was told when purchased)... I never changed it from my previous (gasoline) setup to now. Maybe shame on me? IDK. Everything I read says don't use paper filters with E85, and I took it out last night and sure enough it's paper. I just called Russell and the guy says they aren't compatible with E85... Gonna get a Fuelab E85 Filter. The 828 series is the plan.

*aside* why the hell don't you say that the filter isn't compatible on the website then, dumbass Edlebrock!!*

- My fuel lines are lined with who knows what. I bought them from a performance shop YEARSSSS ago... I can't remember. I *thought* they were PTFE but I'm questioning everything now. Le sigh. I have teflon fuel line in my garage already so I'll make some new lines this weekend.

- Since I'm doubting everything now, I'm also going to get my injectors cleaned. I'm concerned time-wise with this part. I also don't know if there's anywhere local for this. I'm gonna make some calls today.

While I've got it all torn apart, I'm going to change plugs too, so I can try and make sure I'm starting from square one. Then there will be no more variables to go wrong left. What a pain in the dick. I really hope with all of this, the next time I put my foot down, the car does the boot scootin boogey cause I'm getting disheartened.

[95gto]

Your oil switch light could easily be from the connector falling off the switch, those things are designed to slide on and off. So I would peak at the backside of the block to see if the wire is still intact and actually connected.

When you installed your DLI, where did you mount it, how did you route your wires, and where did you make your connections. I think the DLI install happening just before these issues is a coincidence but sometimes you can cause problems with old wiring just by manipulating it.

[futurevr4man]

When you installed your DLI, where did you mount it, how did you route your wires, and where did you make your connections. I think the DLI install happening just before these issues is a coincidence but sometimes you can cause problems with old wiring just by manipulating it.

DLI is mounted under the fuse box, routed just right across to the coils, and the wires from the DLI are bolted to the bottom of the coils with ring terminals.

I actually made the mistake of not putting my post in correct chronological order. The sheathing issue on the throttle cable caused my throttle to get stuck open. When I started the car the first time, it revved up just after being started until I was able to comprehend wtf was happening and cut the key off. It obviously caught me off guard.

I fixed the cable and felt it with my foot, but never started it again... I didn't think there would be a reason to. The goal was to drive the car to my buds shop and cut/realign the exhaust but by the time I got all of that fixed he has left his shop and so I never started it and just did the DLI. When I started it back up, the light was on. So there were a few variables.

[stealthee]

Its not local to you, but my buddy recently got an injector cleaner set up for his shop. It's only 4 hours from you.

[j2k4]

Hang in, Gnate.

[futurevr4man]

Its not local to you, but my buddy recently got an injector cleaner set up for his shop. It's only 4 hours from you.

LOL! I think I found a local place but they won't friggen call me back!

Hang in, Gnate.

Trying to... why can't this just work!?

[95gto]

DLI is mounted under the fuse box, routed just right across to the coils, and the wires from the DLI are bolted to the bottom of the coils with ring terminals.

I actually made the mistake of not putting my post in correct chronological order. The sheathing issue on the throttle cable caused my throttle to get stuck open. When I started the car the first time, it revved up just after being started until I was able to comprehend wtf was happening and cut the key off. It obviously caught me off guard.

I fixed the cable and felt it with my foot, but never started it again... I didn't think there would be a reason to. The goal was to drive the car to my buds shop and cut/realign the exhaust but by the time I got all of that fixed he has left his shop and so I never started it and just did the DLI. When I started it back up, the light was on. So there were a few variables.

Are you using an aftermarket oil pressure gauge or just the stock one? I had to double check, but per stealth 316 the oil pressure switch, aka the dummy light, is a normally open switch that only closes under low pressure. That would mean it wouldn't come on due to a disconnected or broken wire, it would only come on due to a wire that is shorted out, a bad/stuck switch, or low oil pressure.

If you don't have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on this thing I strongly recommend doing so.

[futurevr4man]

Are you using an aftermarket oil pressure gauge or just the stock one? I had to double check, but per stealth 316 the oil pressure switch, aka the dummy light, is a normally open switch that only closes under low pressure. That would mean it wouldn't come on due to a disconnected or broken wire, it would only come on due to a wire that is shorted out, a bad/stuck switch, or low oil pressure.

If you don't have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on this thing I strongly recommend doing so.

You are correct. I plan to. I'm just using the stock gauge.

While the stock gauge may not be accurate, it is repeatable. There has been no change in oil pressure. I'm planning to hunt down the shorted wire when I take off my plenum to pull injectors and change plugs. I'll hook up a real gauge (I already have a nice Greddy one) as soon as I can come up with a plan on where to mount it. I may just do away with the dummy light altogether and put the Greddy gauge unit in its place.

[j2k4]

Trying to... why can't this just work!?

You've aged since you messed with your car, enough it pays to realize finishing projects just gets harder and harder.

Have to say, making shit run was a LOT easier with carbs, and without ECUs.

[Dj_Frost]

This thread is filled with awesome