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Thread: instrument panel and stoclk gauges wont turn on when i turn on headlights???

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    instrument panel and stoclk gauges wont turn on when i turn on headlights???

    Ok, so after I got my car back from jfast, my wideband had no power to it. the next day my prosport oil pressure gague stopped working too.

    So, looked under the dash and wow, rats nest from teh guy who installed these to my car during my last build.

    So, I pulled out my turbo timer, put the stock connectors together, pulled out my oil gauge, respliced the wires together, and now my oil pressure gauge works perfect.

    I checked every single fuse under the dash, and in the engine bay.

    I found out that the 15a tail lamp fuse under the hood junction box was blown. So, i swapped it and when i turned on my headlights, it popped. So, pulled off my rear tails, checked the bulbs, the harness and everything was good. I checked my front headlights and everything was perfect.

    It only blows that fuse when i switch on the headlights? I looked at the circuit diagram and everything is plugged in tight, no loose wires?

    everything on the car is perfect but the dash and gauges. I know i have a short but i dont know wtf else to look at.


    Oh, and when i get on the gas, my BRAKE light on my cluster comes on till I let off the gas? anyone know what thats all about?

    1/4 mile 11.80 @117mph. 551whp 641trq @ 26psi E85 tune, MTC 19T-HLs, forge 15psi spring wastegates, 780 PTE inj, 3SX Fuel loop, ss fuel lines, Engine built by Laniers Speed shop, block bored .060 w/ chromolly rings, weisco pistons, 3sx custom forged rods, forged crank, HKS DLI, AEM EMS, AEM UEGO wideband, prosport oil and boost guages, aeromotive 1000 FPR, Dejon blow thru twintakes, Walbro E85 400 w/ 3sx hotwire kit and custom an fitting fuel pump w/ STM filter to pump line, CXRacing FMIC, Megan Racing Aluminum radiator, IPS custom downpipe, Borla 3" exhaust,Greddy profec b spec II EBC, Blitz SS BOV,R1 Drilled slotted rotors, Drag DR-31 rims, RPS stage 4 unsprung clutch,

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    the tail lights are on the same fuse as your dash illumination, quite commonly mistaken for an earth by the do-it-yourself auto electrician. Start by checking your stereo wiring and then the gauge illumination wiring

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    I had an almost identical issue a few years ago. Tail lights went out. Dash lights and parkers. Would blow the fuse within seconds. I pulled the entire dash out looking for a short. I knew there was one because when i moved the wires near the fuse box they worked then after a few mins it blows again. Pulled everything out. Couldn't find a single short or issue. Gave up and put it all back. Has been working ever since lol. 5+ years now

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    Maybe Jfast put in a warning for you to slow down when your going to fast, thus the BRAKE light..... :P jk check the Ebrake adjustment and see if there is any play in it cause its probably just on the edge of switch and that jolt back is making it illuminate.

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    Does the fuse blow with the parking lights on or just the headlights? The interior illumination will come on with the switch in the parking light position and then stay on with the switch in the headlight position. This detail can change what you need to look for.

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    when i turn the parking lights yes it blows first.

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    I've heard of stuff like an A-pillar cover was attached with a screw that ended up penetrating the wiring harness that runs through there. It could be something like that.

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    It could be something as simple as a faulty tail relay. Try swapping it. My brother had a similar issue on his old Talon. Turned out the relay was just "stuck."

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    Sounds like a short in the illumination circuit for your dash since you we're just fiddling in there. Check your aftermarket gauges illumination circuits first.

    Also, check your brake fluid level.

    Third, burn that car down.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sin'sVr4 View Post
    when i turn the parking lights yes it blows first.
    As it has been stated, check all new electronics that have been installed. Most gremlins I have chased in cars are really just the aftermath of bad 12V work. You should be checking that the parts are wired correctly and that the connections are made correctly.

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