Replaced master + slave, now hard to shift some gears

[Omega-Tron]

My bro and I replaced the master and slave clutch cylinders (both OEM Mitsu) in my 94 RT TT. We also installed a STM stainless steel line to replace the 3 factory lines between the slave and master. I bought a grey slave cylinder as that's what 3SX said works for AWD 92-99 but upon removing the old slave we noticed that it was a blue slave in it(91 AWD and FWD).

We finally got the system fully bled and the clutch pedal feels good. 1st and 2nd gear are easy to get into but all other gears take a lot of effort to shift in and out of. Any idea what could be going on? GZP flushed and filled the transmission when I bought the car 3000 miles ago and before replacing the master and slave everything worked great.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Adjust the clutch pedal.

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[Omega-Tron]

I'm guessing since I put in the correct slave the clutch pedal will feel quite a bit different?

With the old slave the clutch engagement point was when the pedal was about 80 to 90% pressed. Now, with the new slave and after I readjusted it to be able to shift into other gears *a bit* more easily, the engagement point occurs when the pedal is about 60% pressed or even less. Does that sound right?

[mcshooter]

do a search on how to adjust clutch, sounds like you have to push the pedal way to far to engage the clutch, i dont have the manual but i think you only need about one inch of free play

[stealthee]

One inch of free play is even too much. I beleive NA is 3/4" of free play and TT is 1/2". I am quoting this from memory, but it is actually in the owners manual.

[license to ill]

Right in the owners manual NA range is .2" t .5" of free play.

[Omega-Tron]

I tried adjusting the clutch pedal yet again after reading everyone's replies. No matter how far in or out the clutch booster rod is I still have about 1.5" of free play. At both extremes I get a bit better movement in and out of gears but I end up losing the clevis pin play.

Early on I adjusted the stop switch height so the pedal would come up further. It is now at 6.5" from the carpet to the pedal face. Some of the clips that need to be removed in order to pull the carpet back and get a correct reading from the firewall to pedal face have been a PITA so I've just assumed that there's about 1/2" worth of carpet/padding to get me to the 7" to 7.25" (or so, I'm going from memory) ideal clutch pedal height.

I suspect even though the hydraulics have been bled like crazy that there is STILL air in that line. That's all I can think of from what I've read.

At this point my plan is to try once again to pull the carpet back and get a correct pedal height setting. Then try adjusting the pedal again to get the proper amount of clevis pin play and if it's still out of whack I'll pick up a pressure bleeder and bleed the system that way.

[B-Man]

Your play is probably from the Clevis pin. Link to properly adjust pedal:

Eclipse Clutch Adjustment

[CoopKill]