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Thread: popped my dipstick, how fucked am i?

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    Diamonds and Rust Feedback Score 1 (100%) gltasn's Avatar
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    popped my dipstick, how fucked am i?

    got approx 1500 miles on new build. poped the dipstick on the hwy 2 days ago and cant figure out why. got good vaccum(-18),checked all the crank vents, removed stock pcv valve(1400 miles old). i strapped the dipstick so it cant pop out more than 1/2 inch so it can vent rather than pop out and cause another fire(2 so far). pressure tested at tdc and no leaks but when remove dipstick theres a woosh of air.

    will buy a compression tester today but, car runs good and isnt smoking. if it is bad ring seal then what are my bandaid solutions so i can drive her for the next 6 weeks then rebuild durring winter. thx guys!

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    Quote Originally Posted by gltasn View Post
    when remove dipstick theres a woosh of air.
    crankcase is pressurised at idle ??
    Your running stock pcv valve ?

    hook a vaccuum gauge on the crankase (dip stick hole) to check that there is any pressure in the crankase, thats what I would do first
    Last edited by mb7050; 09-23-2010 at 02:17 PM.

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    Diamonds and Rust Feedback Score 1 (100%) gltasn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb7050 View Post
    crankcase is pressurised at idle ??
    Your running stock pcv valve ?

    hook a vaccuum gauge on the crankase (dip stick hole) to check that there is any pressure in the crankase, thats what I would do first
    stock pcv is out of the mix but still have the crankvents. i pretty much know the cc is getting pressure. and since its not the pcv system im buying a compression tester today. i guess i know im fuct but im in denile. unless theres another cause for the cc to pressurize.

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    Have you tried to run all the valve cover ports to open athmosphere ?

    bad rings or bad cc ventilation can cause the cc to pressurize I cant think anything else right now.
    Last edited by mb7050; 09-23-2010 at 02:49 PM.

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    I had krank vents but I uninstalled the bigger one because my dipstick popped out once (because the bigger one got stuck). Now I´m using the small one and the stock pcv valve in series(Idont trust krank vents at all), no problems I still think the bigger krank vent is useless ...

    oh and my leakdown and compression is all good...
    Last edited by mb7050; 09-23-2010 at 03:26 PM.

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    My talon pops it's dipstick everytime I drive it, as did my Black stealth before I rolled it it. In the Talon's case it's due to low compression on all cylinders (100 - 110 psi on a hot engine, 15 inhg vac at a hot factory idle), caused by high mileage and alaskan winters. In the case of the Stealth it was good on all cylinders except the #6 which had something like 75 psi hot (17 inhg vac at a hot factory idle). A good easy test to do is warm up the engine and then go down a hill with your foot off the gas and the engine in gear cranking about 3500 rpm, look at your vac if it's not 23/24 inhg you probably have issues, try dropping a gear so the rpms are > 5000, you should see 24/25 inhg. My talon can only muster 19/20 inhg on these tests. I'll give you a call later today.

    Joe

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    Diamonds and Rust Feedback Score 1 (100%) gltasn's Avatar
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    2 tc lock-ups, 2 engine fires(not bad ones but still scary),4 engines that detonated # 6 piston, its hard for me to drive her and not be worried about something happening. driving my car is like getting a girl off, and right when they climax, she explodes!

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    I know that feeling .

    Just a thought could bad valve guides cause such an issue ?

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    Twin Turbo verified Feedback Score 5 (100%) GTOJOE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTO_Joe View Post
    My talon pops it's dipstick everytime I drive it, as did my Black stealth before I rolled it it. In the Talon's case it's due to low compression on all cylinders (100 - 110 psi on a hot engine, 15 inhg vac at a hot factory idle), caused by high mileage and alaskan winters. In the case of the Stealth it was good on all cylinders except the #6 which had something like 75 psi hot (17 inhg vac at a hot factory idle). A good easy test to do is warm up the engine and then go down a hill with your foot off the gas and the engine in gear cranking about 3500 rpm, look at your vac if it's not 23/24 inhg you probably have issues, try dropping a gear so the rpms are > 5000, you should see 24/25 inhg. My talon can only muster 19/20 inhg on these tests. I'll give you a call later today.

    Joe
    Hahahaha there is only is only room for one GTO joe here mate!!!! and I was here first
    1990 JDM GTO TT with Vi-PEC plug-in V44 EMS, TD04-13T's, 3SX Downpipe, MP Hi-flow cat, ARC SMIC's, Aeromotive Stealth 340LPH pump, Fuelab 515 FPR, Ninja Performance 75amp hotwire kit, oohnoo fuel loop & rail adapters, Nylon braided ethanol fuel line, NGK AFX Wideband, K&N FIPK, Iridium plugs, HKS Twin Power DLI, Turbo XS racing BOV, 3SX poly mounts, Custom 280km/h speedo.

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    11 sec FWD! (old name: 94atxvr2) Feedback Score 0 11secondFWD's Avatar
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    I take away all my sources of boost/vacuum off my valve covers and vent them. All I know is every pressure test I did when I have pcv and crap hooked up to the intake manifold boost source I would get pressure in my crankcase. Doing that on every car I have owned saved me from popping dipstick. ALso, everyone of my cars has perfect compression and runs strong, so I know that having the intake manifold boost sources hooked up to my valve cover is causing it. So I would check there first.

    92 Eagle Talon TSI AWD Auto = 10.61@127.8 (1.4 60ft)
    94 3000gt SL 8:1TT 5spd getrag = 11.87@123 (1.8 60ft)
    91 3000gt VR4 13gs = 11.61@115 (1.59 60ft)

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