Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Fixing the tick w/out $$$?

  1. #1
    Banned verified ictponder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2006

    Location
    Owosso, MI
    Posts
    286
    Thanks
    55
    Thanked 55 Times in 37 Posts

    Fixing the tick w/out $$$?

    I've had very minor lifter tick for about a year now. Recently it's gotten worse and I want to remedy i, however, I just dumped $400 into a new clutch/plate/bearing. I am more than willing to do the work but just can't afford a new set of lifters right now.

    There are so many different opinions on what causes it and I want to know - is there a way to get rid of it outside of replacing them. Can I simply clean them individually? Is it possible to drill the hole into the chamber a little biggerto keep them from going dry?

    I'm just brainstorming here because I'm broke. If I had the cash (along with the wife's go ahead lol) I would just buy new ones.

    Any ideas?

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2008

    Location
    Chilliwack BC
    Posts
    242
    Thanks
    33
    Thanked 35 Times in 27 Posts
    Your problem may not be that the lifters are gummed up, here's a copy of what the FSM suggests-



    LASH ADJUSTER CHECK
    NOTE
    If the clanging noise due to the lash adjuster produced immediately
    after the engine has started or during operation persists,
    perform the following checks.
    (1) Check the engine oil, and add or replace if necessary.
    NOTE
    (1) If the engine oil level is low, the air drawn in from
    the oil strainer will be trapped in the oil passage.
    (2) If the engine oil level is higher than the specified
    level, agitation of the oil by the crankshaft could cause
    a large amount of air to enter the oil.
    (3) A deteriorated oil contains a large amount of air, because
    the air, once trapped, is not readily separated
    from the oil.
    If the air trapped due to these causes enters the high
    pressure chamber in the lash adjuster, the air in the high
    pressure chamber will be compressed while the valve
    is in the opened position. The lash adjuster will be drawn
    too far in, and will produce noise when the valve closes.
    This is the same phenomenon that occurs when the valve
    clearance is adjusted to an excessive dimension.
    In this case, the normal condition will be, restored if the
    air escapes from the lash adjuster.
    (2) Start the engine and slowly race* it several times (less
    than 10 times).
    If racing the engine causes the noise to die away, it means
    that the air has escaped from the high pressure chamber
    of the lash adjuster and that the lash adjuster has regained
    its normal functions.
    * Accelerate the engine from the idling speed to 3,000
    rpm slowly (in 30 seconds) and then decelerate it
    to the idling speed slowly (in 30 seconds).
    NOTE
    (1) When the vehicle is parked on a slope for a long
    period, the oil in the lash adjuster will decrease. When
    the engine is started, the air might enter the high
    pressure chamber.
    (2) After a long period of parking during which the oil
    in the oil passage goes away, it will take some time
    before the oil is re-supplied to the lash adjuster. Therefore,
    the air could enter the high pressure chamber.

  3. #3
    Southernmost 3S Owner supporter
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    1996

    Location
    Key Largo, FL
    Posts
    1,049
    Thanks
    155
    Thanked 199 Times in 129 Posts
    I don't know if you have a turbo car or not, but for the NA's, you can use motor flush before changing your oil. It usually cures my lifter tick until the oil starts to go bad. Can't do it with a turbo car though.


    2015 NG: Best in Show. Best Custom Interior. Best Custom Exterior. 2nd place,Best Engine Bay. 2nd place,Best 1st Gen. 2nd place,Longest distance driven. 3rd place, Coolest Accessories. 3rd place, Autocross Class 2
    2014 NG: Best in Show. Best 1st Gen. 2nd place, Best Interior. 2nd place, Furthest Distance Driven. 3rd Place, Peoples Choice. 3rd place, Best Engine Bay. 3rd place, Best Custom Exterior
    2013 NG: 1st place, FWD Drags
    2011 NG: Best Overall and Best 1st Gen. 3rd place Autocross FWD Modified and FWD Drags
    2009 NG: Best 1st Gen 3S and Best Interior. 3rd place, Autocross, FWD Modified.

    Mods include 18in. Moda wheels and BF Goodrich KDW's, Tein Flex suspension, R1 Concepts rotors, 3SX stainless steel engine dress up kit. Blue/black carbon fiber 575 hood, VLS and a full RT conversion. Audio mods include a Kenwood DVD touch screen HU, Kenwood speakers, Memphis audio 5 channel amp and 12" Subs. Corbeau Leather seats, carbon fiber dash trim and HID upgrade.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
The 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Web History Project
3000gt.com
3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive
Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Information and Resources
Team 3S
3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information
daveblack.net
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Clubs and Groups
Michigan 3S
MInnesota 3S
Wisconsin 3S
Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas 3S
North California 3000GT/Stealth
United Society of 3S Owners
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums
3000GT/Stealth International
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Event Pages
3S National Gathering
East Coast Gathering
Upper Mid-West Gathering
Blue Ridge Gathering