15's possible on auto SOHC (1/4 mile)?

[SOHC]

First off no flaming from you turbo guys or anyone saying it will be slow. I am stubborn and modding the hell out of my SOHC!

Current mods:

Injen Intake
3sx downpipe
test pipe
Maximal Single Shot
3sx crank pulley
Topline Wires
MSD 8.5mm wires
Maximal Solids
Plenum spacer

Future mods:

Crower 264/264 reground cams
Dimante 10:1 pistons .04 bore which should yield 10.4:1 compression
Ed Kelly Stage II heads and valve job
lightweight stamped cam gears
DOHC TB and plenum port
Shift kit
High Stall torque converter
Trans cooler
Over sized radiator

weight reduction (future):

remove a/c, windshield wiper fluid bottles, cam gear covers, rear seats, rear wiper, antenna and motor, tow hooks, sun visors, fog lights, crash bars, speakers, headunit, etc.
Get cross drilled slotted rotors (should save a 1lb. each maybe?), lightweight cf hood, cf fenders, cf hatch, TE37 rims, lightweight battery, 11lb. racing seats.

With all that it should be a decent na. Thoughts?

[11secondFWD]

Well my n/a dohc auto ran a best of 16.1. That was full weight, and all intake and exhaust you have done, but on a stock engine. So without power adders, I wish you luck but I cant say. You do have some other pretty good mods, like high stall, cams , ect. So enough talking and just see what it does and report back!

[SOHC]

Yeah thanks. I think some guy with all possible bolt ons and moderate weight reduction in his auto SOHC ran a 16.2 best so I should be shooting for mid or low 15s. BTW those aren't my mods yet thats just what I'm planning on doing.

[stealthee]

I have a SOHC and I will tell you that you are wasting your money. If your goal is 15's then you are going to be pissed when you have more money into your car than you could have bought a VR4 for that would absolutely annihilate you. Keep the basic mods you have and keep the car reliable. The ATX is going to be your absolute nemesis as well. There are modded DOHC"s with a high stall and shift kit that couldn't get out of the 16's. My MTX SOHC was faster stock than they were modded.

As for your weight reduction.

Removing the cam covers is the most retarded thing you could do. Not only will it save you maybe 2 lbs, but they are there to protect your car. Sure a SOHC is non interference, but that doesn't mean shit wont break if something gets into your timing belt.

Keep the washer bottles. Again the weight savings is minimal and if you want to drive your car on the street they are needed.

Keep the rear seats if you don't want your car to look tacky. They dont weigh hardly anything anyway.

Some people can live without the rear wiper, I love mine. Doing it for weight reduction is stupid though.

Keep the tow hooks, you're gonna need them if you try to mod your car like that.

Keep the sunvisors if you intend on driving your car during the day., fog lights, whatever.

Crash bars are there to protect you. Getting rid of them is insane, stupid, pointless, assinine... Shall I go on?

The car is not going to be a "race car" so getting rid of the headunit and speakers is stupid.

Cross drilled rotors are pointless and are not worth the risk of killing you. They crack and break. The best rotors, are blanks.

Save some weight with the hood.

Aftermarket fenders probably weight MORE than stock. Our stockers are damn near weightless.

You wont save much weight with the hatch. The real weight is in the glass.

It is not going to be a decent NA. Its going to be a huge waste of money.

BTW, I have ran a best of 15.52 with some of the mods in my sig. I didn't have the Quaife, I didn't have the crank pulley, I didn't have the ground wire kit. If I actually took it back to the track and got traction I am probably looking at 15.2's with less than $2000 in mods. You are going to have 10 times that and have a gutted tin can and will be lucky to match that.

[TheRedStealth]

easy, many mtx sohc's have hit the 15's. I managed a 16.2 with my atx and 2 blown head gaskets. I think 13's and lower are possible with FI

[SOHC]

I know I can have a VR4 but I don't want a VR4. I don't care if I'm slower then a stock VR4. Its just a project I plan on doing. I never heard of cross drilled rotors doing that? But I agree it will still be driven on the street so I'll just get the lightweight hood, maybe some cheaper lightweight rims, and racing seats, and remove the a/c.

[SOHC]

I knew someone ran that in there auto. Any guesses what it would run now?

[stealthee]

I know I can have a VR4 but I don't want a VR4. I don't care if I'm slower then a stock VR4. Its just a project I plan on doing. I never heard of cross drilled rotors doing that? But I agree it will still be driven on the street so I'll just get the lightweight hood, maybe some cheaper lightweight rims, and racing seats, and remove the a/c.

Then you haven't looked at the internet. Its a common occurence and the cross drilled thing is mostly a ricer thing. It in no way offers improvement in braking.

[TheRedStealth]

Then you haven't looked at the internet. Its a common occurence and the cross drilled thing is mostly a ricer thing. It in no way offers improvement in braking.

agreed, dont buy cross-drilled, get slotted, they hold up better and give you a little extra cooling and venting over blanks

[11secondFWD]

Oh, if you haven't dont those then I dont know if you are going to have luck. And do not waste money on them. A vr4 can be had for cheap. Keep the basic mods and keep the car daily like stealthee said. Also, if you pursue this the best mod to tranny (other than making sure you have a good cooler and temp gauge) is to make a shift box so you have full line pressure shift. It cut a second off my 1/4 mile, the shifts are violent and instantaneous, which is good. All you need is 2 toggle switches, a positive source, and make shift a plug for the tranny so you can switch back to stock with only pulling off an electrical plug. Shift kits and crap are a waste.