I ended up ordering from the dealer for $110, gotta wait a week for it to get to the states.
Sent from HTC Trophy
I ended up ordering from the dealer for $110, gotta wait a week for it to get to the states.
Sent from HTC Trophy
So, I was able to remove the trans today following the writeup on stealth316.com took about 3 hours from backing in to the garage to taking the pics attached. New parts should be here Thursday!
Here was the main reason I had let the car sit for the last couple months.
I'm assuming this groove isn't supposed to be there and was caused by the TOB
Not sure what a clutch is supposed to look like but it's getting replaced anyway.
The flywheel is very smooth but there is some slight blueing and I noticed a couple VERY tiny cracks the size of a hair follicle. Should I leave it, replace it or just have it resurfaced?
I was able to remove it without taking apart the driver side. Also, I did not drop the control arm, I detached the strut tower and pulled the passenger axle out from the back of the hub, which seemed to work just fine.
A couple questions. How much fluid do I need to buy for the refill? I did not leave the slave pin compressed but I did not remove any hoses, do I need to bleed the clutch when it's back together?
Last edited by ictponder; 08-19-2012 at 11:23 PM.

the flywheel should be resurfaced and then checked again for cracks. You'll need about 2.5 quarts of transmission fluid.
The slave should be okay, but it wouldn't hurt to bleed it since you can flush out the old fluid.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
You should not have to bleed the clutch. It's a good ideas to get the flywheel resurfaced. Be sure you put in a good throw out bearing. Those cheap ones that come in the clutch kits start making noise a lot of the time shortly after being installed. The only problem with not removing the driver side is when you go to reinstall the tranny u have 2 things to try and get lined up at once. I've done it before also but have had problems. All the pressure plates I have removed from these cars have had those rings. Some even worse than those. Watch those bolts that bolt the flywheel on. They are dine thread pitch and very easy to strip. I have had to run a tap in the crank before to clean them up so they go back in nicely.
The TOB in the Exedy kit is the best quality I have ever seen. If the OP got an exedy he will notice the difference.
Now is a GREAT time to change the rear main seal.
Remove/clean and lube the TOB fork. (often overlooked)
The groove on the pressure plate is mostly normal, but seeing that old TOB I'm sure there was some extra wear added.
Clean your flywheel in hot soapy water to remove all the grit and oils from having it reground. (Carb or brake cleaner doesnt quite do the job!)
Use brake cleaner to remove any oils from the pressure plate and clutch disk. If you got the exedy kit they include a small tube of lube for the splines.
-SP
I cleaned everything with brake parts cleaner. Flywheel had a 2 step turn yesterday, however I think I might have been sent the wrong TOB. Part number MD749998 says it's for the z16a chassis.

oh if it hasn't been mentioned it is a pretty good idea to run a tap or better yet a thread restorer through those flywheel bolt holes. Loctite builds up in them over the years and can make them hard to turn in, giving false torque readings.
Is this gap before bolting down normal? I'm assuming it is or else there wouldn't be any pressure once I bolt the plate to the flywheel (I haven't tightened it down yet). I just want to make sure before I put the car back together tonight.
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yes that is normal
So, I got everything back together with no problems except one. I went to bleed the clutch fluid and I can't seem to get any resistance on the pedal even after getting clean fluid through the whole thing. It seems to push the fork just fine but when I'm pushing on it, it feels 10 times easier to push in than my other factory clutch. I thought maybe the linkage needs to be adjusted at the pedal but it's going like 3/4 of the way in until there is any resistance at all. Nothing is leaking and everything seems to be running smooth. Any ideas?
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