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Thread: My 6g74 tt build

  1. #71
    94 3500gt vr2? verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimvr4 View Post
    I don't think he's selling option 3 at this point. Funny because he sells the WRX springs separately. I'm on the waiting list but I'm pulling out because I found a set already to ship.
    Where from? If I'm rebuilding, I'm upgrading, lol.
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  2. #72
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    Got them from a guy who decided to go to TD05 instead.

  3. #73
    One fix at a time verified
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    I have option #3. They worked great up to 31.6 psi. I turned it down because I feared my stock motor wouldn't survive. They work really well though. 11 psi they crack open and by 19 they were fully open. Stock cracked open about 5 psi and was fully open by about 10 so it was definitely a big improvement - better spool and more torque.

  4. #74
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    More parts on the way

    Still need to figure out resistors. Either that or find some high impedance 450s or something.

    Really excited about the new plugs and especially not having to gap them.

    Not sure how to do the oil cooler lines or what size fittings/adapters I need. I'm guessing I need some NPT to -10AN adapters on the oil housing?
    *Metric to -AN adapters (16mm x 1.5 to -10AN) Thanks Jordan

    I don't want to waste money on new lines, but I'd really like all new coolant feed/returns and oil feeds to match my nice new oil returns. Now I'm just being picky, lol.

    If I get a new boost gauge, I'm going to want 3 new matching gauges, lol. Preferably some combo gauges, that are slightly larger than stock and I can stuff in the dash instead of using the oem cluster. But I guess this isn't really important right now. Plus I do already have an A-pillar pod and used mechanical boost gauge I could run.

    I should probably track down new studs for the turbos. At least one of them are broken. (links would be greatly appreciated)

    I have a ton of extra exhaust bolts. Also have 1 turbo exhaust-side and 2 manifold-side gaskets, but I still need gaskets for the front o2 housing.

    Considering having someone inspect and clean up the turbos. Also considering sending them off for rebuild/upgrades, but may be short on time for that.

    Against my original plans, I'll probably wait on the oil pan fittings until I have everything else done to be absolutely sure I line them up properly.

    What's the brass plug on the oil filter housing for? I thought the front oil feed might come from here, but that thing's huge.
    *Found the oil feed. It's small, same size as the mounting holes, so it didn't stand out right away. Brass plug is oil cooler bypass. Thanks Jim.


    *I'm sure I called some stuff by the wrong names just now, but hope it makes sense... it's after 4am, I'll look it up later, lol
    Last edited by n2nsanity; 04-12-2013 at 01:37 PM.

  5. #75
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    Just in case you don't get to Facebook before here, the threads into the filter housing are a 16mm - 1.5 pitch. Most auto shops that sell the fittings should have ones that will work and accept your cooler lines.
    Photobucket

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  7. #76
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    The brass plug on the oil filter housing is the valve for the oil cooler bypass. At 200C the valve closes, directing the flow through the oil cooler.

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  9. #77
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    Trying to figure out how I want to mount the oil cooler. I don't think it will matter much but want to have the best oil flow possible. Without some crazy brackets, I'll have to mount my oil cooler with the ports facing down or to the outside. I'm thinking of facing them to the side in hopes that it will flow or drain better.
    But, to do it this way, I need to know which is the feed and which is the return. Numbered in this pic.


    If there's no benefit to doing this, I'll just mount it with ports facing down and it won't matter which is which. Maybe I'm over-thinking this. Just thought I'd put it out there for suggestions.

  10. #78
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    Another thing, how much pressure is really needed for the oil feeds? I don't have a port available on the block (it's welded up).
    I have a single port on the oil pump and single port on the tt oil filter housing to work with. I'm not sure what's the better option.
    1 sensor/gauge sender and 1 turbo oil feed on each port using a T?
    Or both turbo oil feeds on the oil filter housing and just sensor/gauge sender on the oil pump housing? (leaning towards this)
    It seems like the rear turbo fails more often for people and I think this maybe related to uneven oil distribution. That or not having as much air flowing across as the front does.
    Again, maybe I'm over-thinking this, but just seeing what you guys think.

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    1. check out this pic



    thats from 3sx... the port closest to the front of your car is the feed. if you go with ports on the side, you should have the feed on the bottom, so the oil cooler stays full.


    2. get a sandwhich plate for your oil filter. problem solved.
    rise and rise again until lambs become lions

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  13. #80
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    Thanks, this is pic is showing engine side of housing, so #2 (higher, facing front of car) is the feed, and #1 (lower, facing block) is the return.
    The pic above is my tt oil filter housing. I'll be using that instead of a sandwich plate because when I asked about it earlier everyone was saying not to use it.
    I was thinking of putting the feed up top if I mount cooler sideways to help with the flow. I'm going with custom braided lines for this also and might make my own. Already ordered the metric to AN adapters. Just need some -10AN lines and to figure out if I need 45 or 90 degree fittings. Think I need 45's for the housing and 90's for the cooler. These lines are so thick I need to make sure the length is dead on.

    *I guess I also need a gasket for the housing. Couldn't find it anywhere in the box
    Last edited by n2nsanity; 05-28-2013 at 03:05 PM.

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