My 6g74 tt build

[n2nsanity]

im not the biggest fan of 3sx's stuff, but i was legitimately kidding. sucks that its not fitting correctly.

before anyone else says it, and im sure you are already aware, but that oil return being angled down like that is concerning. you dont want the oil to back up into the turbo, thats bad news bears.

Never even tried aluminum. I was trying to learn how to weld on an old broken wrench and some other scrap metal. I had 0 success and just made a mess lol. Welding is an art I'll save for later. Found a pretty awesome welder right down the road I'll take my stuff to until then.

I know the returns didn't turn out near as good as I hoped. Back is pretty decent. Front is harder to angle correctly because it sits so much lower. I'll change out the end with a straight fitting later. I think as long as the turbo side of the hose is higher than the end on the pan, it will drain well enough.

[n2nsanity]

TT oil filter housing installed with new gasket and Fragola adapters (M16 x 1.5 to -10AN)
IMG_20130524_235949_FilterHousing.jpg

Flywheel back on
IMG_20130525_012617_flywheel.jpg
*There's my makeshift tool still hanging there, lol

Segmented kevlar clutch. Hopefully should last at least as long as my weak fwd trans
IMG_20130525_012832_KevlarClutch.jpg

New pressure plate
IMG_20130525_014142_PressurePlate.jpg

I completely forgot to install the new throw out bearing. Old one only has about 10k miles on it, so I think I'll be fine. Definitely not worth pulling the trans back off lol.

[n2nsanity]

And at around 4am Saturday, she's back in the car.
IMG_20130525_041034_TT_Engine_In.jpg

[n2nsanity]

Loosened up the ac drier and lines and bent them out of the way as much as I could. Would be much easier without these. I also deleted the power steering cooler loop. This leads to what you see at this point.

I had already cut this area out, but needed to trim some more to allow enough room to install the hose clamps. It is stupid tight in there. Anyway, I cut away as much as I could and only left areas with bolt holes. I tried grinding down on the lip at the frame (straight edge in the pic) but went through 2 wheels before giving up and calling it good enough. That edge is the part that's the problem anyway. I painted everything I ground down to prevent rust or corrosion or whatever. Seemed like a good idea. Probably should have used rubberized undercoating on the bottom. This would also help prevent slicing fingers open on those sharp edges. I smoothed them down a bit before painting, but it's still a little sharp.

Bottom view, where I did most of the cutting from
IMG_20130526_150638_DS_SMIC_CutOut_1.jpg

Top View
IMG_20130526_152130_DS_SMIC_CutOut_2.jpg


You could possibly mount the hoses to the SMIC before actually mounting the SMIC. I did this for the small piece (9" or so C shaped hose) and I think that helped a lot. The longer hose needs to come off about as often as the cruise control box, so I made sure it can be installed / uninstalled as easily as possible.


Piping attached to DS SMIC
IMG_20130527_122453_DS_SMIC_Piping_1.jpg

[n2nsanity]

I mentioned earlier about the PTU sitting uncomfortably close the front exhaust manifold. I decided to move it to the typical location for the 6g72's. I couldn't find a good way to mount this as-is and I'm pretty sure I have a bracket from a 3.0 somewhere, but couldn't find it. Was faster to just make my own and I think it turned out good enough for the time being.

IMG_20130527_125218_PTU_Bracket_1.jpg

IMG_20130527_125816_PTU_Bracket_2.jpg

IMG_20130527_131739_PTU_Bracket_3.jpg

Some more rigging.... My oil cooler wasn't fitting too well in the DS wheel well. Decided to route it up front for now.
But, horns were in the way, so I moved them.
IMG_20130528_154349_Horns_Relocated.jpg
Not the prettiest, but I deal more with this later.

[n2nsanity]

Tight fit in there. Now I see why they use banjo bolts everywhere, lol.

IMG_20130527_165125_OilCooler_1.jpg

IMG_20130527_171037_OilCooler_2.jpg


Oil Cooler fits snug in the bumper. It's wedged in there pretty tight and the braided lines are so stiff, it can't move at all. Zip tied it in place anyway. Also realized after that I should have flipped it around so the tabs aren't facing outward like that. But this is temporary, so I can live with it for now. Not worth the effort to flip it around at this point. Also, I now see why people take the bumper off to do this stuff. If it ends up working ok and no leaks or anything, I plan on sticking with it for now. This one would have fit perfectly in the wheelwell if not for the smic. And I plan on getting an fmic at soon anyway. Hopefully a 99 front bumper at the same time
IMG_20130528_154339_OilCooler_3.jpg

*Update
Adjusted oil cooler lines. No longer touching subframe support. Hard to tell from this pic, but there's a good 1/4" or so of clearance. My poly mounts won't allow for much movement either. Still, banjo bolts would fit so much better and you can get a socket on them instead of fighting to fit a wrench on there.
IMG_20130605_150411_OilCoolerLinesClearance.jpg

[Bloodlust182]

Thats one clean A/C compressor. BTW how are you routing coolant to the turbos? or are you just bypassing them?

[n2nsanity]

Compressor is a reman I got a couple years ago. Only $180 and still works great

Haven't quite figured out the plumbing for coolant lines. A lot of people run without them, so I think I'll be fine whatever I do. Just trying to figure out exactly how I'm going to run them. I do have some fittings on there already a 90* bend and straight pipe for each. Just need to attach hoses to them and have something to tap into. Was thinking about putting T's on the heater hoses, but may take my water housing to the shop and have fittings welded on.

Here's what I have. I'm worried the metal doesn't extend far enough from the turbos and may melt any hose on them. I might still clean up the stock lines and use them instead. Banjo bolts were pretty nasty, so I'd want new ones. That's one reason I got these. Newer cleaner, and larger diameter so I can run whatever hoses I want. Only $25 for all 4 pieces with banjo bolts and crush washers.

Using these for feeds, mounted out away from engine and open end up.
CoolantFittings_Straight.jpg

I'll get some pics on the car later.
Using these for returns, in towards engine and open down and towards passenger side.
CoolantFittings_90.JPG

[n2nsanity]

So I'm still fighting with the oil returns. I had to get some ridiculously bulky adapters for both at the oil pan. The front was sitting right on the ac compressor and worse, the rear was in the way of the axle. I ordered some smaller adapters and now the front is good and the rear is better, but still touching the axle. So no good on the rear.

New front return adapter. Just enough clearance from ac compressor.
IMG_20130605_150337_FrontOilReturnFitting.jpg

New rear return adapter. Better than before but still barely rubbing axle. No bueno.
IMG_20130605_150455_RearOilReturnFitting_RubAxle.jpg

Think I found the answer. A local machinery supply store has a 45 degree adapter. Only $10, so I'm going to try this before completely abandoning my current setup. I can always redo it later, but really want to get this thing finished for now so I can work on ironing out all the other problems I may run into. If I would have just done -8AN returns to begin with, I would have saved SOOO much time and money and headaches. Better placement of the weld-on return fittings would have worked also, but the -10AN lines are just so stiff and hard to manipulate as well as so large, it's hard to fit them anywhere.

The oil returns have by far been the biggest pita and the most expensive part of this project.

[futurevr4man]

you will figure it out, but you are right that they SUCK to fight with.