My 6g74 tt build

[n2nsanity]

So, I've already completed the 6g74 swap and mtx conversion. Looking for another fun project and little more of a challenge and absolutely more power. For now, I'll probably stay fwd and going for minimal boost (9b's or maybe slight upgrade). I do have bigger plans, but saving those for later on a whole new build. For now I'm just going for decent upgrades in power at minimal costs. My goal is to complete this project by the end of the year and for about $1500. Considering how cheap I've come out of my previous projects, I think I can pull this off. Any guidance or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

[n2nsanity]

Need:
TT front motor mount bracket (using hacked up n/a bracket for now)
Hopefully nothing else

Have:
Used TT Fuel Pump (already installed)
New Fuel Pump hotwire kit (ninja performance)
New OEM Fuel Filter
New AFPR & Gauge
New Fuel Hose and AN-6 fittings
Used TT Injectors (from a 93)
Used TT Plenum (from a 93 and freshly powdercoated)
New EGR Block-off plates
New Stainless TT Exhaust Manifolds (also have a used set from a 93 if I run into issues with these)
New Exhaust manifold gaskets
Used Turbos (td04 9b's with 90k and no shaft play from a 93)
New M2 TT Downpipe
Used Coolant feed and return lines (from a 93)
Used Oil feed lines (from a 93)
New Intake Y Pipe (cxracing)
Used SMIC's and piping
Used 3" GM MAF
Used MAFT2
New OEM TT Oil filter housing (cherry hill)
New oil filter housing gasket (ninjaperformance)
New Oil filter housing adapters M16 x 1.5 to -10AN
New -10AN Oil Pan Weld-on Return Fittings
New Custom -10AN Oil return lines (ninja performance)
New Aftermarket Oil cooler
New braided ss -10AN oil cooler lines, 90* and straight ends, 26" and 36"
New Rear Precat Delete (3sx)
New Plugs - Champion c53vc gapless coppers
Used OEM Front o2 housing
Resistors for injectors (from partsxpress)
Used Boost gauge (autometer procomp)
1g Chrome ECU (jesters)
Used Evo BOV
New vacuum manifold with various fittings, adapters, plugs
Sandwich plate (just in case)
Custom oil feeds and several fittings/adapters/splitters (just in case)



Sold the safc2 since I'm going chrome. Still need to sell the 96 vr4 ecu. Also, should probably sell the maft2 and get the older/cheaper maft.
With the upgrades, it's looking more like a $1500 - $2000 project depending on what I make back from the tt ecu and maft2. Not sure I really want to see my price list, but I might put one together. Buying and selling parts and changing plans along the way make it a little more complicated. I'll probably have 2 used smic kits and possibly an fmic kit by the time I start this, lol.


I keep trying to get ahead and do some tasks now, but keep finding reasons I have to do it all at the same time. I could probably do AFPR and lines now, but I'm now thinking it would be better to do that last. But I think I will wire in resistors and install tt injectors, plugs and tt plenum ahead of time.
Test fitted manifolds/turbos/downpipe off the car to make sure all the holes line up and have a better idea what I'm working with. Also good way to see if you're missing gaskets, studs or bolts, which I am, lol. Some of the holes needed to be enlarged, so better to have that out of the way before so I can hopefully install everything only once.
Tested actuators with the air compressor. They both work, but seems like the rear one that has the dent on top doesn't open quite as far as the other. Hope this will be ok at least temporarily.


Looks like I'll be knocking this out in May between semesters.
Getting close

[n2nsanity]

My Questions:

Can I use a sandwich plate for oil feeds?
-Have a tt oil filter housing on the way. May run a split off of that. Or may run a line from the back of the block to a T fitting between the turbos.

Will I absolutely need to tap returns into the oil pan or is there possibly another method?
-Was recommended to use adapters from old tt oil pan. I'm going to try some custom weld-on adapters to hopefully make this easier.

Will I need a tt ecu if I have a safc and vice versa?
-I've heard some people only run the safc. Most recommend to have both with the 3.5. But, looks like I'm going the chrome route instead.

I'd prefer not to tap into the water housing. Can I use T's on the heater hose lines for coolant feeds?
-Still weighing options on this. I don't see why I couldn't just use T's on the heater hoses for feeds and returns. Can't be that bad considering some people aren't running coolant lines at all.

Possible fitment issues with motor mount brackets?
-Using braided ss oil return lines and weld-on oil pan fittings, so shouldn't be a problem.



Other thoughts:
I was thinking I could use high impedance injectors instead of wiring in resistors.
-From what I've read this can be done, but it's much much better to use low impedance which are optimized for "peak and hold".

I know the standard way is to get the front tt motor mount as part of the swap. I'm using as many braided ss lines as possible and I think the custom front oil return should fit around the n/a mount.

[IPD]

you'll need an SAFC regardless if you have a larger than 3.0L engine, imho. the benefit to having a tt-ecu is that you can run a larger correction factor on it than you can with the n/a ecu. my hunch is that a 3.5L with 9b's--wastegate boost--is at the limit of what an n/a ecu with SAFC can support.

get both & be happy.

p.s.

traction? what traction?

[DrGonzo]

This should be interesting....

you will need to tap the oil pan for the oil returns. best to get a beat up TT oil pan and cut off the adapters from the inside. Mark your pan, drill out the holes and tack the adapters in place.

There is a debate on needing the coolant line for the turbos. Adding in the coolant lines will help them last longer IMHO. best to tap into the stock water housing as the flow for the turbos is correct in those stock locations.

You will need a SAFC or standalone for the fuel management. TT ECU is also probably going to be a must. trying to tune with the stock N/A ECU will be way to hard and the amount of corrections needed will cause problems elsewhere.

For the front oil feed a sandwich plate should suffice. the rear one you cab just use the stock TT oil sender adapter as that is where the rear oil feed comes from.

You will need a TT Upper intake. Disableing the VICS on the N/A will not work. the N/A intake has two runners depending on the position of the VICS. Just get a TT intake so the flow if correct.

TT DP will probably not work. You would most likely need to get it modified as the 3.5L DP is different due to the increased deck height. So stock DP will not bolt up.

You can probably stick with the stock SMIC for the time being if you only running 9psi. I had to step up the FMIC once I pasted the 10-12psi mark as I needed to keep the intake tamps down to control the knock and the stock SMICs where getting heat soaked.

The resistor pack is going to be worthless and a pain without the stock harness. You can just wire in individual resistors to the injectors and save yourself a wiring nightmare.

Stock injectors will be fine. if you need to increase them then get an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. Set you base fuel pressure higher and that will increase the injector flow. Keep in mind you will most likely need the AFPR as once you make to much corrections on the SAFC your IDC's will get to high. Increasing the fuel pressure will lower the IDC's and allow for more correction. That is how I am able to run 14-16psi on my 10:1 build still using the stock injectors. with my base FP now at 55psi, I'm flowing about 450cc on the stock TT injectors.

[ibsorgn]

I agree with the use of a Adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Having the ability to change the fuel line pressure is a tuning benefit. You may want to consider an FMU in the neighborhood of a 6 - 1 which will increase the fuel pressure as boost rises this will also keep you from making larger air corrections with the SAFC. Remember that the ECU adjusts timing based largely on RPM and LOAD, and LOAD is seen by the ECU as air flow. The more you lie to the ECU about air flow the more you will be distorting the timing. You may want to take a look at WMI for cooling. Basic systems are not very expensive and it can be used as a fuel enrichment alternative. WMI systems are usually based on boost and can be used on any level of build. Concerning resistors I made a small neat little resistor pack that I mounted on the firewall that looks factory for just a few dollars. If you're interested I can send a few pixs. Good luck with your projects sound like fun.

[n2nsanity]

Wow, thanks for all the great info guys. I'll update my list.

So stock tt injectors, fuel pressure regulator. Might do regulator first as I can go ahead and install that now and have that out the way. I'm about due for new filter and lines anyway.
Any suggestions for filter and FPR? Also dual feed options. Ready to buy this stuff today. My fuel lines absolutely need replacing, looks like they're starting to dry rot. Suggestions for AN fittings and lines would be greatly appreciated also.

I'll probably wire in resistors to the injectors. I'll be researching that, but any tips would be great. But that won't be right away.

Will stock n/a harness be an issue? The tt ecu should plug right up right? Will my 94 n/a harness be a problem? Will a 99ecu work with my setup?

Traction is already a little bit of an issue, lol. I think that has a lot to do with that 6puck clutch tho. I'll probably change that next go around. Bigger rims/tires will also be one of the 1st things I do after the conversion. I've had these tires for years. Might just do burnouts for fun til there's nothing left

[ibsorgn]

If I was in your shoes I would dig deep into 6G74 swaps especially what ECU's can be used. Is the motor NA or a TT, I'm not really clear on that point? If the 94 NA ECU is currently being used what type of AF's are you getting. If they are relatively close, a SAFC should be the ticket to get the fuel back in line so long as corrections don't become excessive, but as I said in my last post, major corrections in Air Flow signals will create improper timing. You can verify what I'm saying by reviewing the timing matrixes published in Stealth316.com. If you are running a boosted application, an FMU may be the answer for boost levels up to 8 - 9 psi although this would be a temporary solution. Should you be planning on moving to higher boost levels you will eventually have to address proper timing issues. Those flashable ECUs could be a solution however you would have to determine whether the systems are compatible.

IMHO, if you are using this vehicle for a DD I would not recommend a puck type clutch as they are not very street friendly. Before replacing your clutch try to estimate what type of HP and torque you are shooting for and how you will be using the car, then make a decision on the type.

[n2nsanity]

It's definitely more of a project than a dd. I've put less than 2000 miles on it in the past 15 months and I have 3 cars, so that's not an issue. I've gotten used to the clutch, but it can be annoying, especially in reverse. It can also be fun though. I can easily break traction shifting into 2nd and 3rd and last weekend I found out I can do burnouts at 1200rpm, lol. Anyway I'll enjoy it while I have it and until I wear it out and then worry about replacing it.

I've still got plenty of research to do. First thing I'm going to tackle is the fuel as I definitely need new lines and no idea how old the filter is. I dumped a can of seafoam in the gas tank last week, so I think now's definitely a good time to replace it. So, right now I want to go ahead and get a new fuel filter and AFPR and lines (Preferably a dual feed setup with AN fittings and SS lines, even though I don't really need it). I've already spent a lot of time looking at my fuel options and the more I look, the more options I see and the more questions I have. Anyone have some good recommendations for this stuff?

Aside from that, for now I'll just be collecting whatever random cheap parts I can find that I know I'll need for the conversion.

[DrGonzo]

You won't need a dual feed set-up. That is way overkill for your set-up. Just a single line from filter to front rail, a good SS loop and a line from rear bank to FPR. Either an Automotive or FuelLab FPR will work just fine. You can build the lines yourself and save some money in the end.