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Thread: Suspension

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    Suspension

    I posted this on the other forum, but I'm trying to switch over here.

    I have d2 coilovers on my car and they are set very stiff. I lift tires pulling into my driveway. My front sway bar links are trashed, so at first I was looking at upgrading it to an aftermarket bar, but after researching, a bigger front sway bar will actually make the car understeer more, and a larger rear bar will make the car oversteer more.


    So... Shouldn't coilovers prevent body roll enough that the front sway could be removed altogether, which would also reduce understeer? Would this affect alignment?


    it might be a dumb question, so someone set me straight if need be, with an explanation if you don't mind.

    Sent from my BlackBerry 9650 using Tapatalk

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    That's a very complicated question with an even more complicated answer. Yes, theoretically you can install springs stiff enough to provide the current roll resistance rate of your current setup.

    simple answer is: it depends on your setup and use for the car, but usually no, you can't without installing much stiffer springs than you'd want to.

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    The links are pretty cheap. Replace them, I'm pretty confident you want to keep the sway bar.

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

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    depending on the suspension configuration a stiffer front sway bar can actually help to decrease under steer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuny View Post
    depending on the suspension configuration a stiffer front sway bar can actually help to decrease under steer.
    Really? I have always read the opposite, and I know a lot of time attack and gymkhana guys remove the fsb to allow for oversteer to make tighter turns.

    I will probably just order a new set of endlinks and call it done, but I was curious if removal was an option because my coilovers seem plenty stiff (wheels drop 2 inches when I jack the front end up). So just for technical understanding, I would still be interested if anyone else has further insight on the subject.

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    In a BMW for instance for autoX or slower tracks, the fast way is largest front bar possible, remove the rear bar or put it in the softest setting, because that allows you to put down the power earliest. It all depends on if you are FWD or RWD and that type of suspension you have.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 75blackray View Post
    Really? I have always read the opposite, and I know a lot of time attack and gymkhana guys remove the fsb to allow for oversteer to make tighter turns.

    I will probably just order a new set of endlinks and call it done, but I was curious if removal was an option because my coilovers seem plenty stiff (wheels drop 2 inches when I jack the front end up). So just for technical understanding, I would still be interested if anyone else has further insight on the subject.
    Where are you reading that at?
    Our front McPherson strut suspension when too much body roll is being allowed will roll the tire over into a positive camber situation. If we can keep that body roll in check and the tire from going positive with a combination of static negative camber and a worthwhile sway bar then the grip in the front will be overall more even though the sway bar is working to break it loose so to speak. Keeping the tire's contact patch where it should be is more important.
    This can be true due to other factors even with SLA and other suspension types.

    As ABM said..
    Quote Originally Posted by anyonebutme View Post
    That's a very complicated question with an even more complicated answer

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