My VR-4's been sitting 10 years, now what?

[Sabotage]

It's been almost 8 years since I last fired up my 92 VR-4. On that last day I checked the compression and it was 160 to 165 psi all around. I burned as much fuel as I could, and parked it. In the two years before parking it, I had only driven it about 20 miles just to fire the engine up and get it moving a few times each year.
It wasn't in good driving condition for those first 2 years. The ECU went out, but I wasn't sure it was the ECU. I got a replacement which would run the car really rough, but apparently that ECU wasn't right either. I didn't know that ECU wasn't right so I thought the car had other problems. Eventually I got a working ECU and had guy in Ohio named Bob test it in his 92 Stealth TT. He reported back that the car ran great with it.

Throughout all this time I had lost my license, lost my job, and didn't have money to put into the VR-4. Over the past few years I've been slowly getting my life back on track. I've got my license back, and I recently relocated to finish up my BA in Environmental Science at Western Carolina University.
For the last 3 years I've been driving a 93 Chrysler LeBaron LX Coupe. To make a long story short, I could have the VR-4 on the road for the amount I've spent repairing the LeBaron over those 3 years.
I'm tired of spending money on a car I hate, and since I've moved I need to sell my VR-4 or get it back on the road.
I thought I was going to have to sell my VR-4 as is just to get relocated and make ends meet until I get my finical aid package from school, but I lucked up and I'm able to make it that far without selling my VR-4

I would really appreciate advice from those with the experience to help me make an educated decision. I'm not the type of person that can do all the work on my own car. My new location doesn't allow me a garage, and even if it did regular maintenance is all I'm comfortable doing. I can still do my regular maintenance in the parking lot.

I would like to start with a list of possible costs to get my VR-4 back on the road.
The VR-4 is sitting on 118k miles. That's the biggest reason I didn't stick my working ECU in it and fire it up. I know it needs the 120k service done, and I was afraid something would go horribly wrong if I tried it out. I need some help getting a list prepared for everything I should defiantly do before getting it on the road again.
So far I'm counting on...

• 120k service

• Remove and replace, transmission fluid, oil, coolant, and fuel

• Replace all rubber hoses and vacuum lines

• The rotors are rusty from sitting, something needs to be done there, but I'm not sure what

• Needs 4 tires

• Needs weather stripping

• Battery

What else do I need to cover to get it running & reliable? Should I consider a new alternator, starter?
It has an RPS Stage 3 Clutch, Fidanza aluminum flywheel,Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley, ATR Exhaust and starter all with less than 1,500 miles.
NGK plugs, new wires and accel coils with less than 30 miles.
If my budget allows I'm considering having the bottom end rebuilt. I don't know if this is necessary, but considering the miles and years it has been sitting it would give me peace of mind.

This list of what I need to consider is my main concern, but I would also like advise as to if I'm realistic in thinking that the car can be reliable for the next 2 years, requiring only regular maintenance.
I'll have $3,000 to either buy a used car or to put into getting my VR-4 road ready. I can probably add $2k to my budget by selling a couple of firearms or other hunting equipment, but it takes time to get the right price.
Please kindly share your thoughts as to if I can expect to get my VR-4 road ready & reliable as a stock + the BPU mods already on it. Or if I should sell the VR-4 as is and combine that with my $3k for a better used car. Or Put the money into getting the VR-4 road ready so I can sell it for a better price or trade for a better used car.

Thanks for reading!

[AdamVR4]

I think your list is pretty good.

Is the 120K you're thinking of strictly the timing belt stuff and water pump?

I'd want to replace the oil pump and valve stem seals (and bearings, but some people disagree). Parts alone are going to be something like $1200. Labor will probably be like $800-$1200.

I'd expect the fluids and battery to add up to $250. Tires are like $800.

I'm not sure about 10 years worth of rust, but the rotors I've seen sit for a long time clean up nicely just by driving.

So you're right at $3000-$3500 by my estimation.

You're in NC... Why not call 3SX and see what they'd recommend/charge?

[UTRacerX9]

Rotors will probably clean up fine, it's the calipers that may be seized after all this time. Honestly, if you aren't able to do all the work on the car, I'd consider selling it, and just buying another one that is already running fine.

[vroom4]

Man Ive had cars that say for 4 years outside and you go to work on them and its just a total nightmare. Are you sure you dont want to start from a vehicle that has been on the road and maybe just swap over your parts onto it?

[vroom4]

Rotors will probably clean up fine, it's the calipers that may be seized after all this time. Honestly, if you aren't able to do all the work on the car, I'd consider selling it, and just buying another one that is already running fine.

Beat me to it.

[familyMAN]

I agree with others. Looks like a good list but if you can't do most yourself, it could add up quickly.

I know of a GREAT running stealth with 13gs and meth for $4k in PA. Sell your car for $1-2k and buy the stealth and you are way ahead. These cars always cost more than you budget for PM donniekak on the stealth.

[Sabotage]

I haven't decided to keep it, or to get rid of it. I'm fine either way as long as in the end I'm riding something reliable. I don't have a heavy foot, or a need to speed around. Sure I'd love to drive my VR-4 for a while, but if I could sell it for enough cash to get me into a reliable car as it is now I'd do that. One of my concerns is it it's current value. I'm thinking if I could at least have it running to show it would be worth the investment to get more resell value from it. I don't know that for sure though, and that's why I'm asking for input from the community.
The body is in decent shape, rust free, but some clear coat is just starting to peel in a few spots.
Keep the comments coming, any estimates on it's current value would be appreciated also.

here's some photos of the current condition: vr4 pictures by gearmine - Photobucket

[vroom4]

Selling as is, without starting it - 1500$
Selling as is, with getting the engine running so the car is driveable onto a trailer - 3000$
Selling completely fixed up and road worthy(although maybe not the prettiest)- 5000$

Now you can do the math and figure out what it will cost to get to each of those stages. Matter of the fact is, 1g vr4/tts have plummeted in value in the last 5 years.

[Amphiron]

I am looking to buy a project VR4, this looks cleaner than the other one I am looking at.
Shoot me a PM when/if you are ready to sell. I am looking to spend around $1500.
If you aren't going to sell I can tell you the first thing I would do when I got the car is plastiguage the main and rod bearings. Then if those are in check I would do 120k and oil pump, tires etc.

[AdamVR4]

Oh, poor car. The atmospheric corrosion in NC is a bitch.

That's going to take a lot of TLC to bring back to something I'd call "reliable". At the end of the day, it's a 3S. It will never be reliable relative to simpler, newer cars.

But it's going to be hard to find a 3S in the $4-$6K range that DOESN'T need the 120K done.