Big Single Build

[mb3000]

Really curious as to how they hold up. They seem to fit perfectly, I seriously considered running them for a while now. Just couldn't get over my fear of them cracking/not holding up. Seems like everyone that has used them only uses them for a short amount of time and then changes it up.

[Boost4VR4]

Really curious as to how they hold up. They seem to fit perfectly, I seriously considered running them for a while now. Just couldn't get over my fear of them cracking/not holding up. Seems like everyone that has used them only uses them for a short amount of time and then changes it up.

There is a possibility of them not holding up, but I needed something to work with to start getting the turbo placed in the engine bay. I didnt want to spend hundreds of dollars on a manifold set only to hack them up for fitment and then have to spend hundreds again on newly fabricated manifolds. I went this route so I can get a test set and not worry about hacking them up too much during fabbing and once I felt confident of the turbo placement and the manifolds design, then I can send it to a fabricator and have them make a full setup and I will spend the hundreds there.

[mb3000]

Pretty good idea, did you have any place in mind? I know there's a couple of "Internet" shops you can send things like that to, but don't know which one(s) would be best.

Really excited to see what numbers you throw down after it's all said and done. Might have to pick up another SOHC...

[Boost4VR4]

Pretty good idea, did you have any place in mind? I know there's a couple of "Internet" shops you can send things like that to, but don't know which one(s) would be best.

Really excited to see what numbers you throw down after it's all said and done. Might have to pick up another SOHC...

I haven't figured it out yet. I need a local fab guy to help with some of it then I can take the finished mock-up somewhere.

[mb3000]

Here we go, this is the place I had in mind.

http://www.stainlessheaders.com/customheaders

[arm0red1]

Mine on my single held up fine, the only reason they came off is to test the prototype td04's ive been developing in parallel to fabbing my own single kit. I plan to return to single after these have been thoroughly demo'd.

If you wanted to add a level of durability to the unit, weld a support rod to where the runners collect to the corner of the flanging that goes to the cyl head. You can also consider some small form of reinforcement or gussets below the runners to ensure no cracking occurs. Finally welding quenches metal and causes it to pucker around the weld bead, adding surface tension, a fab trick I learned from a street rod fabricator is to peen the weld bead after you're done to relieve surface tension at the weld and reduce the chance of cracking from stress/fatigue at that area

An example of this occurance would be the earlier 3sx td05 headers that cracked at the welds regularly after being ran for awhile. Thin gauge steel with innate surface tension causing a thin spot on already thin guage = no bueno.

I also got into where the collector merges with a pneumatic carbide bit and removed a good 1/8"- 3/16" of ridge from the pipe merge and welding. Lots of turbulence issues you can address there to preserve spoolup and not waste exhaust energy unnecessarily.

Hope some of this helps! Gl it's time consuming, but a fun project!

[Boost4VR4]

Mine on my single held up fine, the only reason they came off is to test the prototype td04's ive been developing in parallel to fabbing my own single kit. I plan to return to single after these have been thoroughly demo'd.

If you wanted to add a level of durability to the unit, weld a support rod to where the runners collect to the corner of the flanging that goes to the cyl head. You can also consider some small form of reinforcement or gussets below the runners to ensure no cracking occurs. Finally welding quenches metal and causes it to pucker around the weld bead, adding surface tension, a fab trick I learned from a street rod fabricator is to peen the weld bead after you're done to relieve surface tension at the weld and reduce the chance of cracking from stress/fatigue at that area

An example of this occurance would be the earlier 3sx td05 headers that cracked at the welds regularly after being ran for awhile. Thin gauge steel with innate surface tension causing a thin spot on already thin guage = no bueno.

I also got into where the collector merges with a pneumatic carbide bit and removed a good 1/8"- 3/16" of ridge from the pipe merge and welding. Lots of turbulence issues you can address there to preserve spoolup and not waste exhaust energy unnecessarily.

Hope some of this helps! Gl it's time consuming, but a fun project!

This is all greek to me, I will have someone else fabricate this setup for me.

[familyMAN]

3sx rear runner welds have no penetration. When I say "no" I mean zero, zip, zilch, none. The welds are basically cosmetic. Just going over them with good penetration and a little filler would prevent a lot of issues.

[Boost4VR4]

Well these manifolds are welded through, I can see the penetration. I just need to clean up the collector area.

[j2k4]

Well I received the 350z manifolds and for the most part for 89 dollars I can't really knock the quality too much... I mean the collector wasn't skillfully made well, but I applaud their effort. It's a good starting point:












Here's the SOHC gasket lined up with exhaust ports of this manifold (gasket is on backwards, but even flipped, runners still line up):


The runners would need to be made round again, but nothing major.

You've just met, and you're already in bed?


Slut...