Better cooling option..? 3sx dual pass or Koyo Radiator?

[vTaKwiTHsLiCkS]

So I'm planning on upgrading my cooling system and I've come to the fork in the road with these two..

Now in theory, the 3sx dual pass should have an easier time keeping my coolant in check vs the single pass Koyo. I also believe its 1.5' vs Koyo's 2' core. However the 3sx dual pass is designed to use flex-a-lite fans while the Koyo is setup to use stock fans. I've read that the stock fans flow more than the flex-a-lites.

Any thoughts on the either setup?

Im looking to get the most efficient cooling system in my car as long as its worth it. Plan on hitting the track, the strip, hot trafficy streets of LA, etc. ;[p

[J. Fast]

If they have the same frontal area the deeper core will buy you more time before overheating. The real key to better cooling is airflow thru the radiator and exchanging hot air on the restiction side with cold air. The best results I've found came from venting the engine bay and directing the airflowfore and aft the radiator.

Fyi, I personally run a koyo 2"

[vTaKwiTHsLiCkS]

Well while the single pass only flows up and down, the dual pass goes side to side as well allowing the coolant to pass throught the radiator twice.

As I said in theory the dual pass should own.. I know that Trevor runs/ran one and was very happy. However glad to hear that the Koyo is working well for you also. I was also wanted the additional .5 inch as it was too close with my td05 kit for my liking. [Not sure what setup this time around so wanted maximal room.]

I did notice a huge difference when I had a td05 kit from stock hood to GT300. However I am not a big fan of crappy fitting hoods. Which seems to be the only option unless I hack up the stock hood hood..

[Erron Spalsbury]

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[J. Fast]

Lots of room when you move the radiator. That's a 2" koyo in the pic. I actually am waiting on a 3" X 18" X 36" mishimoto radiator .


I'm also running a Tioga High flow water pump, Ralliart PRM high pressure cap, a high flow/temp racing stat, coolant aeriation surge tank, and a block recirc port.


^^surge tank is that big aluminum filtered box that dumps to my overflow.


What I came to discover at undisclosed proovng grounds and hundreds and hundreds of miles week after week:

High flow water pump increased flow and pressure

Coolant temp increase required racing stat with relief ports

Coolant Pressure and flow differential required higher pressure rad cap and surge tank cap.

Coolant at one time was boiling so I needed Coolant De-aeriation from elevated combustion temps/pressures and cylinder chamber impulse waves squeezing the coolant from high boost (like 35psi on 20g'). Surge tank keeps the coolant uniform and relieves steam pockets which breakdown the cooling effectiveness.

Larger radiator core increased heat sink capacity and decreased rapid heat soak

Moved radiator farther away from heat sources to avoid outside heat transfer intrusion

"Turbulant flow thru radiator only" gives the best cooling (not hoses)

Dropping and skewing radiator into clean air source generates better airflow with FMIC and creates space to extract heat thru the hood and relieve backpressure from ballooning air under the hood

Smoother transitions in radiator hoses move fluid to the turbane area faster.

Vent the hood and use aerodynamics to ait in airlfow and heat extraction

Build shrouds to direct air where you want it, and don't want it

Bend the system around the car and move this and that to make an assembly line chassi better

That's pretty much all I have to say about that as from researching, doing, and testing I've come to find I can run all out, all day long. I generat not 400, not 500, not even 600, but 700+whp and only use one fan .

Mehh, either radiator will work if you cover all your bases. Back to eating icecream in the paddock in a lawn chair...