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Thread: A Comparison: Hub / Wheel Bearing Assemblies

  1. #1

    A Comparison: Hub / Wheel Bearing Assemblies

    Part #: MR223993
    Ordered: 2012 June
    Paid: $87.68/ea from Cherry Hill Triplex
    Part: FRONT WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY
    Left: See above
    Right: 1993 Dodge Stealth RT/TT OEM
    Weight:
    New = 7.8lbs
    Original = 9.0lbs

    Most of this weight would seem to come from the much thinner disc that mates to the lugs. New = .28inches, Original = .5 inches. There is also some considerable sculpting done to the knuckle side as as well. The newer piece is much more contoured, less blocky.

    There are no studs to deal with any longer, assuming so this could be a more "universal" part. Bolts come with instead. While the original configuration nutted on at the back of the knuckle, this cofiguration now bolts on through the back of the knuckle to the hub itself, hence they provide a threaded hub and lock washers for them to attach into. No nuts.

    Cons:
    -New studs and bolts look of a lesser strength rating and quality. Original wheel studs and hub studs were longer and heavily zinc plated. My original studs and bolts look pretty good for being 20 years old and from Illinois. New bolts and studs are raw or nasty modern zinc plated (if plated). May rust tomorrow.
    -New studs are E rated. Old studs were N (or Z?) rated.

    Bearing quality:
    New are marked with an additional HR lettering across from the bearing number. Not sure what that stands for. Part number DACF2044M.

    Old bearings are DACF2044B. Assuming just the Mth revision that they are on and not bearing load indicator.

    Spin effort: The new wheel hub assemblies are considerably harder to turn than the old. Assuming after 100,000 miles they will loosen up a bit though.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339479812.539645.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339480062.312681.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339480080.492671.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339480093.579156.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339480110.463513.jpg

  2. #2

  3. #3
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    Any price info? I just bought a new set on ebay for my DD. Bought the cheapest ones I could find, $65 each.
    Trash Can Club

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    They are only like 80-90 from mitsu
    93 R/T - Modded, Full Suspension, Full Exhaust, Quaife Diff, Turbo brakes, Alpine/Boston Sound One of 25
    98 VR-4 - Billet 13t's, Downpipe, Blitz EBC, Ohlins R/T coil overs, SCE center differential, SCE oil pan, Pampena braced trans, TEC Rear Strut Bar, Custom Front Strut Bar, Camber Arms, Alum Driveshaft, 2" Koyo, Maximal oil cooler, SAFC2, Defi Gauges, RC 550's, Supra Pump, Skillard Splitter, Hardpipes, XYZ 14" front brakes/Carbotech, 255 Dunlop Z2's, AMR 18x9's, Alpine/Infinity/JL Sound. One of 13

    3SNG15 Best overall




    "I explode 1 piece rotors" -- ABM --
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  5. #5
    $87.68 / ea from Cherry Hill Triplex. Mitsuparts.com

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    Much cheaper than I expected. I think I'll return my ebay cheepo's and get these. Thank you.

  7. #7
    You're welcome.

    Do you have time to throw some pics up of yours from Ebay? What bearings do they use? Weight?

  8. #8
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    Here are the photos of the ebay bearing. Similar to your new one. I don't have a scale right now but I would bet it's very close to your new one.

    The bearing is unmarked.








  9. #9
    Those are remarkably similar. It's amazing what "ebay" is capable of sometimes.

    I would like to see some stock 97 and stock 99 AWD front wheel hubs posted up on here for comparison. I'd like to know if this was a legitimate 'revision' of our hub in the timeline of the production of the car or if the parts that we are getting from Mitsubishi are universal replacement parts that have taken over the old part number.

    I don't think it matters all that much, and hey, my car is now almost 4lbs lighter ...

    Some people spend a lot of time protesting that the engineering done on this vehicle in it's original implementation is very important to keep. That any little thing you do is a sin against the original engineers and so on and so on. I think if we look at instances like this we will find out definitively if that is the case or not... or at least if Mitsubishi themselves believes these things are as important as those protesters claim.

    Another idea is... are these bearings really the best we could be using? If the bearings are only $20 bucks or so from Mitsu they are even cheaper from Koyo directly or through a wholesaler. In the end they are just wheel bearings, but with everything that we are doing to these cars... I wouldn't mind learning a thing or two about wheel bearings in the process and find out the answers to things like the amount of force it should take to spin one of these, etc.

    http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...CrdV624wwTxppA <-- explanation of the physics behind suitable wheel bearing selection -- over my head. : (
    Last edited by knighty; 06-12-2012 at 04:40 PM.

  10. #10
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    not a bad price, all things considered. seems like it would be easier to buy a new whole wheelbearing assy than swapping out snapped wheels studs.
    Maddog Performance Engineering

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