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Thread: clutch issue

  1. #1

    clutch issue

    ok..
    i have a issue with my clutch/gearing now..
    i was backing out from my garage and when I put it in neutral it kept backing up slow..the gear didnt disengage properly.

    I have noticed that I dont get the same pressure when on the cluch pedal as I did before. I checked the fluied, thats still the same.

    I have no problem changing gears, but when releasing the clutch pedal I can shift from one gear to another without using the clutch..Im afraid to go out driving and finding myself without the possibility to change gears, or put it in neutral at a stop.

    What can I be looking at here? What should I be looking at?

    I have a 92 Vr4, with a sinter cluch..

  2. #2
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    You are not getting a full release of the clutch. The most common cause is adjustment of the clutch master cylinder. Next would be a CMC/slave going bad. Least possible but still probable is a broken pressure plate.

    -SP

  3. #3
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    I'd start by adjusting the clutch pedal play.

  4. #4
    Ok so I adjusted the free play..found out I did it the wrong way and had to do it over again :P But it did make some difference on the feeling of the cluch. But the gears can still be changed without using the clutch..I havent run the engine or the car after the change, do I have to do make this work?

    sometimes I wish I was a mechanic, and knew what I was doing :P


  5. #5
    Banned J. Fast's Avatar
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    If you pump the clutch pedal does it get stiffer or does it keep the same pressure? Pump it like 10 times consecutively and then recheck the level. The other thing you might check is the counterweight on the transmission and see if it's getting blocked out from intercooler or radiator hoses.

  6. #6
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    are you changing gears without pressing the clutch with the engine off? Becasue you dont need the clutch with the engine off.

    1/4 mile 11.80 @117mph. 551whp 641trq @ 26psi E85 tune, MTC 19T-HLs, forge 15psi spring wastegates, 780 PTE inj, 3SX Fuel loop, ss fuel lines, Engine built by Laniers Speed shop, block bored .060 w/ chromolly rings, weisco pistons, 3sx custom forged rods, forged crank, HKS DLI, AEM EMS, AEM UEGO wideband, prosport oil and boost guages, aeromotive 1000 FPR, Dejon blow thru twintakes, Walbro E85 400 w/ 3sx hotwire kit and custom an fitting fuel pump w/ STM filter to pump line, CXRacing FMIC, Megan Racing Aluminum radiator, IPS custom downpipe, Borla 3" exhaust,Greddy profec b spec II EBC, Blitz SS BOV,R1 Drilled slotted rotors, Drag DR-31 rims, RPS stage 4 unsprung clutch,

  7. #7
    I am doing it without the engine running :P I seldom get some time to check anything..with a nagging wife and screaming baby craving my attention all the time :P Will have to continue the checks tomorrow.

    Thanks for the replies so far

  8. #8
    The one. The only. verified
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    Uh, yeah, if the engine is running you don't have to depress the clutch pedal to run through the gears since nothing inside is spinning.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

  9. #9
    jupp..adjusting the free play fixed the problem

    however..why is the car stalling when shifting from 3rd gear to 2nd..or just slowing down to get into my driveway and having the cluch engaged..bad alternator?

  10. #10
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    Your IAC has gone bad. Get it fixed soon or it could damage the ECU.

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