3rd Gear Syncro Replacement

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

after the 2nd bleeding the clutch doesn't drag, but shifting is not good, I guess it is the syncros. At least I know I won't wreck the new ones with a dragging clutch.

[Toni]

Here are pictures from my tranny disassembly and rebuild. They might give you a better idea of what you are in store for.

http://primaryboost.com/homepage/car.../trannyrebuild

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

thanks Toni, is that 5th gear a muther to pull off? I only have a 12 ton press.

[Toni]

thanks Toni, is that 5th gear a muther to pull off? I only have a 12 ton press.

It's not bad. I've done three rebuilds and had no.problems with my 12 ton harbor freight except i had to.cut the base to separate the rails due to gear width.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

hey guys I don't know what is wrong with me, I have done this before, but I can't get the damn syncro keys and balls back in. Been fighting it for a long time. What is the trick?


nvm

I was trying to get the balls in with my fingers, just not strong enough. Switched to a little flat screw driver, worked fine. Counter shaft is back together.

I have another question. One of the races on the front diff isn't the best. Has a little bit of damage from rust, I guess from a little water at some time. The bearing is just fine, the surface of the race is just wavy in one spot. I saw the rust when I replaced the output shaft during the winter build and use some super fine steel wool to polish it out. I'd hoped some runtimw would smooth it out the rest of the way, but it has not. I have 200 miles on it with no transmission noise or vibration. Should I :

1. leave it be since it worked before.
2. Get the good race from my spare trans.
3. get the race and bearing from spare trans.
4. buy new bearing. If so what is the bearing #? I'm not paying $66 for a bearing, give me a break. I'm sure there is a timken, f.a.g, skf or other bearing #.

fyi do not want to mess with preloads, most say just replacing a bearing won't change them that much. Obviously I'll give it a feel test.

Luckily the dog teeth on 1st and 2nd look perfect, doesn't ever look to have been ground.

The syncros didn't look all that bad, but I have them a simple test. Place the 3 parts of the syncro on the gear like they are when assembled. Hold the syncro down. Now try to turn the gear. The old syncros turned with some resistence, but not a ton. The new syncros were impossible to turn the gear. Should have much better grip.

Edit: after talking to my brother who is a pretty wise mechanic, I'm going to grab a good race from my other trans and install that. He said the bearing and race is not really a machined set, you can replace them seperately and the tolerances are close enough it should not matter. No place in town here knows what a brass drift punch is though, so i'll have to order one of those.

Thanks to Gatecrasher:

Got the email. I'll round up everything in the morning.

Here's the bearing list I took from the last 6-speed I was working in. I should have a 25-spline 5-speed this weekend. Not sure how different those are from the 18-spline models.

Inboard means close to the bell housing, outboard means towards the end cover and the side of the car. I included the brands just in case it matters.

Input shaft inboard: FAG 308-410
Input shaft outboard: FAG 57497A (might be a little off. The writing wasn't clear)
Intermediate inboard: FAG 30209A-H84
Intermediate outboard: Koyo Hi-Cap 30208 J-N
Center diff inboard: FAG 32010X-H84
Center diff outboard: Timken Y-32009X
Front output shaft inboard: Timken Y-32009X
Front output shaft outboard: Timken Y-32009X
Differential inboard: Timken Y-32008X
Differential outboard: Timken Y-32009X

I have the race out and oddly enough there were zero shims in it, but whatever it is Timken Y-32009X. It is easy to remove because you can get it from the seal side and drive it out.
http://www.amazon.com/Timken-Standar...imken+Y-32009x

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

well, I got the 5th off. It was actually non very climatic. I borrowed a big bearing splitter from my brother and heated the gear with my map gas torch until I could barely touch it. I didn't have to really lean on the press very hard before it started moving.

The trans had the orignal organic brass backed syncros. I've only had time to get 4th off. The grip difference just checking by hand the new syncro and the old is huge. There is a little signs of grinding and the syncro's are dimpled a bit where the syncro keys hit them, but the gear looks perfectly usable.

Going to pop 3rd out and put the shaft back together, but I'm held up for a day until my new bearing comes in. I'm a little amazed how easy this has really been. These transmissions are simple to rebuild if you can afford the parts.

I'm debating picking up a new 5th syncro to be safe.

Edit: Went ahead and orderd a 5th syncro. Might as well replace it all while its apart. I don't want to see the inside of this thing for a while.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

crap, anyone have a spare 3rd/4th syncro hub ball? One of those bastards shot off into no where when I was trying to press 5th back on.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

also, is there an oiling hole on the input shaft top bearing sleeve? There is a hole in the sleeve, but I didn't see one in the shaft. This is on an 18 spline. I looked at pictures of Toni's and there is an oiling groove in his, like on the counter shaft, but I didn't see one on my input shaft. I don't see why there would be since the shaft isn't hollow.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

there is in fact no oiling hole in the input shaft. I pressed it back apart to be sure.

If I can't get a 3rd syncro ball I guess I'll have to break down my old trans and steal one out of it. Just sucks because that is a bit of labor for a steel ball. At least I can categorize and sort my good trans parts a little better.

Thanks to Toni's idea about modding the press table this harbor freight 12 ton is turning out to be a pretty good press. I picked up 4 6 inch long 1/2" grade 8 bolts, cut the table connecting angle irons, and drilled holes in them to use the bolts instead of the irons. That gives me a good extra 2 inches of width and it is even adjustable.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

well I got everything swapped except 5th.

It is down to the hub. How do you press this hub off? Do you really just use the bearing splitter against the syncro teeth on 5th? My brain is screaming bad the whole time I thought of this.