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Thread: Brake Ducting and Cooling

  1. #1

    Brake Ducting and Cooling

    Ok, let's talk brake cooling. Ideas, thoughts, theories, all welcome here.
    I'll start with a few things I've found that are really cool.

    Like this...


    From here...
    CorSport: Universal Parts - Exterior - Brake Air Ducts - NACA-020825

    Cheaper options here...
    ButlerBuilt Professional Seat Systems

    I had a set before and dug them out last night. They are hammered. The hoses are haggered and even have duct tape in some spots from tire rub. What does everyone do? I'd love to hear and see your ideas. I'm contemplating a deflection plate rather than true ducting but wanted to start a discussion on the topic. Something like this maybe...
    www.stickyvinylgraphics.com
    Custom Stickers & Graphics

    www.chumpcar.com
    Regional Series Promoter for the ChumpCar World Series

  2. #2
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    I bought these from Hans.




    They are from the MR's. See the 2nd mounting hole? MR control arms had a 2nd bracket.

    They seem to work, I haven't had a previous sifting setup but my last track event in March (rain, temp in the 50's, the front calipers were only 150 degrees after a cooldown lap where the rears were 250+.

    We can test them at NG, a few other guys have the same front brakes as me, I will bring my IR gun.

    From the phone.
    93 R/T - Modded, Full Suspension, Full Exhaust, Quaife Diff, Turbo brakes, Alpine/Boston Sound One of 25
    98 VR-4 - Billet 13t's, Downpipe, Blitz EBC, Ohlins R/T coil overs, SCE center differential, SCE oil pan, Pampena braced trans, TEC Rear Strut Bar, Custom Front Strut Bar, Camber Arms, Alum Driveshaft, 2" Koyo, Maximal oil cooler, SAFC2, Defi Gauges, RC 550's, Supra Pump, Skillard Splitter, Hardpipes, XYZ 14" front brakes/Carbotech, 255 Dunlop Z2's, AMR 18x9's, Alpine/Infinity/JL Sound. One of 13

    3SNG15 Best overall




    "I explode 1 piece rotors" -- ABM --
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  3. #3
    That is fantastic! Where did they come from, Hans? Does he make these?

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    Those are stock on MR's and Euro spec 3000GT's Erron.

    They shouldn't be hard to get from maybe Ralliart (was that his username?) and i don't think they're that expensive

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    They weren't expensive, Hans has been waiting awhile for another shipment, I think I got them for around 100 shipped? Maybe it was 110.

    Installation required the drilling of one hole in each a arm

    From the phone.

  6. #6
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    Frame rails with a shroud. $10 in metal, 1hr of time

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    Quote Originally Posted by R/T93 View Post
    I bought these from Hans.




    They are from the MR's. See the 2nd mounting hole? MR control arms had a 2nd bracket.

    They seem to work, I haven't had a previous sifting setup but my last track event in March (rain, temp in the 50's, the front calipers were only 150 degrees after a cooldown lap where the rears were 250+.

    We can test them at NG, a few other guys have the same front brakes as me, I will bring my IR gun.

    From the phone.
    There is an old thread on the 'other' forum that proposed a similar idea, but using Porshe air deflectors. Part numbers 993 341 083 00 and 993 341 084 00. They are $27.75 each from Pelican Parts - Porsche Parts & BMW Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW, a porshe and bmw parts supplier. Some fabrication of simple mounting tabs on the lower front control arm would be necessary, but nothing difficult. I'd post the link to that thread in the other forum, but not sure if that's kosher.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Fast View Post
    Frame rails with a shroud. $10 in metal, 1hr of time
    Now I see what you were talking about! That's pretty darn coolio. Was all they were running or was a hose attachment piece between what we see here and the hub? How was it attached on the front of the car, tubing and ducts I assume?

  9. #9
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    Peel back the front crashbar impact pads and extend the frame rails to the front bumper with some sheet metal. Reinforce the cutout in the fenderwell by gusseting 2/3 fore and aft the cut with a 1/16" mending plate. All you really need is to redirect the air with a shroud but you can extend it if you want it. Opening should be a natural line on your bumper. I can make you a plenum if you want and build you a mending plate since I have it jigged. Or, you could drop the plate and reinforcement and just seam weld the wheel well to make it more rigid. There's plenty of metal there. There's 4 layers of box tube.
    Last edited by J. Fast; 06-06-2012 at 10:46 PM.

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    I have 10 passenger sides. Waiting on more driver sides. They are saying September for the driver side. Apparently Mitsubishi ran out and are having more produced.

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