Quick Battery Talk

[B-Man]

Two things. An issue and a discussion.

The issue: Last night I went to the store in the stealth and picked up a few things. When I come back out, my car doesn't start. I get nothing. It clicked and then died. Once it died, I got nothing. No radio, no interior lights, nothing. I've had problems like this before with bad connections at the terminal, so I go under the hood wiggle everything to make sure it's tight. Almost everything is, but I try it a few more times and then finally got it to start. I checked the battery voltage and it was ~12.3V. I got home and went over everything again, cleaned the terminals a bit and tightened them down.

Come to this morning, it does the same thing. I go under the hood, everything is still tight. Could this be the battery going bad? I'm pretty sure it's well over 4yrs old.

Now, the discussion: If I do replace the battery, I want a light-weight battery. I don't have an amp or anything that draws serious amperage. What batteries do you suggest?

I know Pete suggests: http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-20a...battery-3.html

[TonyM]

Check for corrosion on the terminals or perhaps a bad wire. I had just installed new terminals and didn't sand my new terminals clean (still had some oil/junk on them from the factory) and my car ran fine, got to my destination two hours from home and it had zero power yet my test light showed the battery as strong. Paid $200 to tow it home, checked the terminal connectors with my multimeter and I was only getting 1 volt through the terminals. Took em off, sanded them clean, right as rain.

If your battery is 12.3 you should at least get interior lights and a weak starter, solenoid click at a minimum. 12.3 is barely below acceptable standing voltage for a battery.

Also, what brand battery is it? Take it to an Interstate All Battery Center and they'll load test and and check the cells, tell you if it's good.

[B-Man]

It's some generic farm and fleet battery. I did already clean the terminals a bit. Hopefully it's not a loose wire/electrical issue.

[Irocurstang]

Had the same thing happen to me. Turns out my alternator wasn't charging at idle. Then to top it off I had to replace the battery cables and just for laughs I threw in a optima just to put my mind at ease.

[Macky]

could be the battery. i make it a point to replace my battery every two years regardless of the condition. buy the warranty where they replace the battery for free whenever possible.

acura replaced mine for free two times Ive owned the car. now thats it out of warranty I plan to follow through and replace it late this year.

[Ben_Pow!!]

Have you looked into the click click start fix? Are you positive that the battery is dead? Everything should be completely normal if you have 12.2V at the bat. I had a starter wire back out of the connector that is right near the air box, along the frame. I've also had the click click start problem before I went and bought a relay and bypassed the stock wire, everything is good now!

[KeithMac]

4 Years isn`t bad going for a battery to be honest..

[i3igpete]

i agree, 4 years is a good amount of life and i wouldn't rule out a dead battery. i don't the click click start fix will help if he's having trouble getting accessory power.

[blindmist]

Odyssey PC680!!! 3SX sells them. Great for bat relocation.

[MaxClass]

I know its not the lightest but for peace of mind I usually get an Auto Zone Gold Top. They are the highest amperage rating of their battery series [top of the line]. We live in Vegas where it gets really hot in the summer and we have never had a problem with them.

The other main reason for the Auto Zone ones is that the warranty is good anywhere there is an Auto Zone store so you don't have to worry if it goes dead on a road trip. There is always one close.

Also check the voltage across the terminals while it is turned off. Then start it up and check it again. While running it should be upwards of 13v which is showing that the alternator is putting out voltage and is good. Check all your grounds.