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Thread: How to Guide: Degreeing Cams on 6G72 w/ Pictures

  1. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Fast View Post
    I think you and McCoy are saying the same thing Grasso. If you set to 110 centerlines you will not have the same valve timing as if you set your cams to stock centerlines and then adjusted the valve timing to +1, -3. You both are reitierating that MFR and OEM specified centerlines may not always be were you want peak power output. We're free to change the centerlines as a matter of preference and performance.

    You did make a valid point regarding what works for one may not work for all. If I recall Chris is also not running a traditional I to E lift ratio so his results are also going to be skewed from the norm. Each setup is unique.

    When it comes down to it you really cant make any blanket statements about what cam timing is ideal becase the real intention of the adjustment is to control the air to fuel ratio. That all changes when you increase or decrease temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure.
    You talking about me? If so, how's that?

    -Chris

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    Exactly!
    If I fell ambitious one day I'll check as my motor is still out of the car.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ninja Performance View Post
    So Bob,
    You used the Adjustable cam gears set at 0 to degree the cams and find out how "off" they were either due to the manufacturer or the mill on the heads etc? Then added that difference to the adjustable gears?

    If so, I am still wondering if the gears are perfect, if they are not 0 when set to 0, then I wonder how "off" the cams would have been if you used OE cam gears to find where they needed to be set.

    Not that it would matter.
    Just would be interesting to know.

    -Chris
    "Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, martini in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!"

    ----------------[2007 Ride of the Year.................................. 3.5 Stroker I did. w/DBB DR1000's

  3. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Italo Grasso View Post
    I guess I missunderstood, i see your cam gears adjustments but that really doesn't tell me much in terms of in/ex CL only tells me you had to compensate for given head/block decking and cam grinding offsets....What i'm saying is the stock CL's for our cars is 109.5 in/106.5ex so that is zero, if you put them at 110 they are further seperated then stock and lastly if you put them at +1, -3 then they should be 107.5 in/100.5 ex. For some reason no one is willing to confirm these numbers which is odd to me...
    Not sure if this upload will work but here's a cam algorythm I came up with. You can enter in the durations for your exhaust and intake cams and the advance or retard (retard will be negative advance) and it will spit out your overlap. You can also make adjustments to the cam timing and it will give you the revised centerlines

    J. Fast Designed cam calculator.zip

    For clarification the lobe separation angle for the stock cam profile is 108 degrees. The stock intake cam has a duration of 251, the stock exhaust cam has a duration of 247. There's 1.5 degrees of advance on the stock duration.

    When you enter in those values into my calculator with a lobe separation angle of 108 the resultants are:

    Intake lobe center 106.5
    Exhaust lobe center 109.5
    Degrees overlap 33

    There's your confirmation.

    You can use the calculator to find the new lobe centers. Just enter in your gear adjusted advance numbers in the lower red tables.
    Last edited by J. Fast; 01-12-2013 at 12:21 PM.

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    I pulled the data for the stock cam profiles from here: Stealth 316 - 6G72 DOHC-Turbo Head Info

  5. #75
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Fast View Post
    Not sure if this upload will work but here's a cam algorythm I came up with. You can enter in the durations for your exhaust and intake cams and the advance or retard (retard will be negative advance) and it will spit out your overlap. You can also make adjustments to the cam timing and it will give you the revised centerlines

    J. Fast Designed cam calculator.zip

    For clarification the lobe separation angle for the stock cam profile is 108 degrees. The stock intake cam has a duration of 251, the stock exhaust cam has a duration of 247. There's 1.5 degrees of advance on the stock duration.

    When you enter in those values into my calculator with a lobe separation angle of 108 the resultants are:

    Intake lobe center 106.5
    Exhaust lobe center 109.5
    Degrees overlap 33

    There's your confirmation.

    You can use the calculator to find the new lobe centers. Just enter in your gear adjusted advance numbers in the lower red tables.
    Hey J-fast.. Think your intake and exhaust lobe centers are switched...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Italo Grasso View Post
    Hey J-fast.. Think your intake and exhaust lobe centers are switched...
    Good catch... I enterd in 1.5 advance... Should have entered -1.5

    Looks like this when you make the adjustment in the calculator

    Specifications:
    Intake duration 251
    Exhaust duration 247
    Lobe separation 108
    Advance -1.5

    Calculations:
    Intake open BTC 16
    Intake close ABC 55
    Exhaust open BBC 50
    Exhaust close ATC 17
    Intake center 109.5
    Exhaust center 106.5


    Thanks for catching that for me!

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    When you play with intake cam timing, couldn't that affect your ignition and/or injector timing as well, since the ecu is using the cam sensor (and crank) for ignition/injector timing...maybe it would just affect the 1st gens with cam/crank in one? I'm not an expert by any means, just thought it could be fudging with other things.
    Last edited by familyMAN; 01-13-2013 at 10:51 PM.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

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    Quote Originally Posted by familyMAN View Post
    When you play with intake cam timing, couldn't that affect your ignition and/or injector timing as well, since the ecu is using the cam sensor (and crank) for ignition/injector timing...maybe it would just affect the 1st gens with cam/crank in one? I'm not an expert by any means, just thought it could be fudging with other things.
    Inconsequential on a 1st gen, the CAS is adjustable, you would simply set the ignition timing to spec and be done... With 2nd gen style, the ignition is triggered from the crank sensor position. As long as you don't send the CMP out of phase enough to screw up the cylinder ID, (like a tooth or more when it starts dropping coils) the only consequence could be a small variation in injector timing, which is not a big deal at all...


    Real Performance Automotive (541)816-4500 www.FB.com/RealPerformanceAuto

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    I have to say, it's extremely refreshing to see intelligent discourse regarding fundamental engine parameters on a 3/S forum. It's not usually the norm. I need to start threads more often. Thanks everyone for the contributions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Italo Grasso View Post
    Take a look at the BC Cam Card, the note states set to "0" and then tune from there for best result, well 0 is 109.5 in/106.5 ex for us....BC could have reccomended 1XX in/ex but that wouldn't be zero (0) on our cars...Just to clear up any confusion here is the math from the BC Cam card to show the BC cam "0" is the same as our cars ((180+7+31)/2)=109 CL intake ; ((180+1+33)/2)=107 CL ex...
    Is this why, when I asked 3SX how I was going to degree my 264/272 cams that I bought from them if they don't supply a cam card. They said just degree them as Stock?
    Jeff

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