McCoy is correct, I am running the stock hydraulic lash adjusters, the solid lifter is required for the cam degreeing
McCoy is correct, I am running the stock hydraulic lash adjusters, the solid lifter is required for the cam degreeing
Using the lobe center method worked well for me and my webcams. Everything you do is the same as your write up, but you use the .050" degree readings to calculate the lobe center and adjust your cams from there. My webcam .050" lift readings weren't happening anywhere close to the where the cam card said they should so the lobe center was the best/only method.
Webcam recommends adjusting by line center has a handy calculator on their website that does the math for you and saves a ton of time. Would work for any cam, provided you have the cam card.
Good work on the writeup and pics! I just did this last weekend and thought about documenting it but it sounded like too much work
1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.
Great info. Just ordered some BC 264 cams, and gonna have to degree the adj. cam gears now. Needed to anyway, heads have been milled. I saw a post on the 'other' forum about using an adj. solid lifter from a, I think, Ford 4.6L engine, which was pretty cheap to get from Summit. Anyone heard of this, and maybe have a Summit part number? I don't want to have to buy a full set of 3S solid adj. lifters just to degree the cams.
I've never tried it or measured the dimensions of a Ford adjuster, but they are a very similar design... It would be worth investigating.
I used a trick flow from summit for a mustang. Just need to grind down OD of it a bit until it fits.
Yes, I found those as well. They have a 'kit', with a trick flow adj. solid lifter, a steel base plate, dial indicator extension for finding TDC, t-handle wrench, etc. They also sell a trick flow 11" degree wheel kit, with a mag. base dial indicator, etc.
I guess all the work could be done with only 1 adj. solid lifter, just have to repeat all the work four times. Is it OK to leave the normal valve springs in, or do you need to use a light 'test' spring on the lobe you are measuring? (obviously remove all the rockers on everything but the lobe you are measuring) It would suck to have to keep removing the cams, heads, and valve springs to change out a test spring.
You'll need to reset up your dial each time anyway. I used one adj lifter and ground off the top of a stock rocker (extra) so I could get an allen through to adj lifter. It's so easy to pop off the rocker and pull stock lifter. The time is in setting up the dial indicator to reach at correct angle. Yes you need magnetic base indicator setup.
Very nice write up!! Not to take away from your thread but I got ble solid lifters to degree your motor of anyone is interested
Ryan 724-884-6164
If you don want this in your thread it's underatandable.
__________________
92 vr4 70,908 miles- no where near stock
2007 red/black honda cbr 600rr
1991 300zx fairlady tt
[B] Ray Pampena built 3.1 block, IPS heads, PTE billet 5857 turbos, Dynamic racing cams from his 8 sec car, custom Quad pump fuel system, Supermac plenum w/ q45 throttle body, dnp td05 fmic and piping, tein flex suspension, Ss transfercase, 300m output shaft, wilwood bbk,
And a whole lot more......
What is the procedure to follow if your camshafts did not have a cam card supplied?
its also recomended to have a piston stop so you can find a true top dead center heres a link to the process i usd on the dsm
4G63 Camshaft Degreeing
very similar to what you did just for another refrence
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