ECS Tour/Sport flashing light and lowering springs

[Geordon]

I have two issues here. The first is that my stock ECS struts are 19 years old with 110,000 miles on them, and are nearing end life. Occasionally, when the temperatures are cooler, such as in the mornings now, say 55 degrees, the Tour/Sport light will come on and stay until the ignition is cycled. While flashing,the system seems to be in Sport -- and somewhat rhythmically up and down -- even on the highway. Once it warms back up, say 70 degrees, and I start the car, it starts and stays in Tour mode. Is this most likely due to one or more bad struts, which will heal itself with replacement ECS struts? Or is it more serious, and in the ECS computer system, itself?

This replacement "opportunity" presents my second question. I only drive street, and want to maintain the smoother ride. However, I would like to lower the car by up to an 1" to reduce the wheel gap. Less is fine, if that gives optimal performance for the price. From all my forum reading, it appears KWv3 coilovers give the closest feel to stock, but at a considerable expense to me, as I won't be needing the racing features. Under $1000 coilovers all get the "harsher than stock" reviews. I was thinking of Tein H springs with new ECS struts to get a 0.7"/0.9" drop, but then I read that keeping the ECS under compression all the time isn't good, either.

Some board members swear by the coilovers, others swear at them, and some say leave it at stock height and find some other way to hide the gap.

Am I making this too difficult, or am I really asking for something that isn't economically feasible?

Thank you,

Geordon

[colt45 gto]

sounds like ECS unit going bad? if there was a problem with the actuator (struts) it would happen all the time. same way if the wiring was broken on the top of a strut then it would happen almost as soon as the system has gone thru its check cycle.

being as it happens periodically at varying temps its most likely the ecu computer. might be worth pulling that and checking the caps.

[Geordon]

sounds like ECS unit going bad? if there was a problem with the actuator (struts) it would happen all the time. same way if the wiring was broken on the top of a strut then it would happen almost as soon as the system has gone thru its check cycle.

being as it happens periodically at varying temps its most likely the ecu computer. might be worth pulling that and checking the caps.

I have had a broken wiring before, when one of my front struts bottomed out in a pothole years ago and had to be replaced (under warranty, if that tells you how long ago it was).

Usually, when the light comes on, it is within a 1/4 mile of taking off, though I have had it come on much later in the drive after hitting a rough patch of road. Other times, it works fine, regardless of how rough the road gets.

This sounds like troubleshooting the ABS. In the end, after years of no ABS, my ABS module rusted right out and dumped its oil. Replacing with a used one restored the brakes and ABS. I didn't do much troubleshooting with the ABS, because I didn't really care, but the ride when the ECS fails is not pleasant, so I want to get it addressed. I also think the bad suspension could be attributing to excessive wear on my front tires.

[colt45 gto]

there is another way....you can have it scanned to see which of the struts went bad, i know a main dealer can do this, maybe also an indipendant could also scan it to see which struts are bad (if any)

[Geordon]

there is another way....you can have it scanned to see which of the struts went bad, i know a main dealer can do this, maybe also an indipendant could also scan it to see which struts are bad (if any)

Great idea.

Using the Mitsibishi diag computer tool? If so, it won't be to the Bill Snethkamp's Dodge in Lansing, as last time I was there years ago to check my ABS, they said they lost it, and had no plans on replacing the computer for the handful of cars they get.

[Need_a_Miracle]

I've been running new ECS struts and the Tein H Tech's for about 9 months now. My original rear springs had settled to the point where the rear of the car had a noticeable squat. Overall I'm happy with the end result. The ride is very close to stock, actually better than worn out stock suspension. I have had very minimal issues with tires rubbing/bottoming out, etc. even though I did not roll the fenders. The roads in TN generally suck and I dare not go lower for my dd. I don't see how you could drop the car any further without having alignment problems or having to use camber adjusting cams. The camber is adjusted to the max. setting on one side and is just barely within spec.

Also, bad caps killed my ESC unit. The ESC unit started feeding a garbage signal back into the speed sensor/active areo/ecu. The car ran like crap, the speedo started jumping around, and the spoiler seemed to have a mind of it's own. I ended up buying a used ECS unit and replacing all of the caps prior to install..... all problems solved.

I'm guessing you also have a '91. Refer to the factory service manual Section 33B pages 12 & 13. This will tell you exactly how to read the codes for the ECS with an analog volt meter.

[Geordon]

I've been running new ECS struts and the Tein H Tech's for about 9 months now. My original rear springs had settled to the point where the rear of the car had a noticeable squat. Overall I'm happy with the end result. The ride is very close to stock, actually better than worn out stock suspension. I have had very minimal issues with tires rubbing/bottoming out, etc. even though I did not roll the fenders. The roads in TN generally suck and I dare not go lower for my dd. I don't see how you could drop the car any further without having alignment problems or having to use camber adjusting cams. The camber is adjusted to the max. setting on one side and is just barely within spec.

Also, bad caps killed my ESC unit. The ESC unit started feeding a garbage signal back into the speed sensor/active areo/ecu. The car ran like crap, the speedo started jumping around, and the spoiler seemed to have a mind of it's own. I ended up buying a used ECS unit and replacing all of the caps prior to install..... all problems solved.

I'm guessing you also have a '91. Refer to the factory service manual Section 33B pages 12 & 13. This will tell you exactly how to read the codes for the ECS with an analog volt meter.

Thanks for the post. This is what I wanted to hear -- someone with experience. This makes me feel better about sticking with stock ECS and giving the Tein H a try. I think inperfectdarkness also prefers the stock set up. I have a '92 TT. I will crack open my manual tonight.

[colt45 gto]

my puma had stock shocks with lowering springs, that used to hug the road even at very high speed round twisties. sarahs car had tein super streets and i hated that car purely because of that suspension.