Good luck to Blue Velocity at NASA TTU @ High Plains Raceway this weekend!

[Erron Spalsbury]

Jer, no ego man, this is just real data, not regurgitated info from someone else. You have to understand that I've been racing this platform since 1996. I feel like we keep going back to the same thing over and over again. Let's do something someone else hasn't.

The hoses aren't flowing at maximum capacity, no where near, and certainly not anywhere in the realm to cause cavitation. If we're talking turbulence, then we are talking restriction. The restriction would be t-stat. Probably 2-1 over the hoses. Flow through the hoses are not the issue. If you're talking cavitation, then it would be at the water pump under high rpm. Jack tried a fix for this years ago with an electric pump. The issue was still present, it just get too hot.

The long neck on the thermostat housing is the accumulator for our system. That's where the air goes when the system "burps" whatever is trapped. I'm not entirely sure what you're talking about with the hole to the overflow. That hole isn't in play until the cap has lost it's ability to hold back the pressure, in my case, 1.5 bar. At that point it's just a reclaiming of fluid.

I mentioned this before, the bypass doesn't kick in fast enough. Here, I'll spill the beans as it were.

T-stat in closed position as well as the bypass in open position.



This does double duty to keep the fluid from ever going to the radiator as we see depicted here...



It does begin to open at 180, but notice at over 190 it's hardly even half open...



It doesn't force the entire flow through the radiator until well over 200 degrees. When you jump 20-40 degrees in a matter of a few seconds, it can't keep up and you end up re-heating the already hot fluid. This is not good. There's another major kicker. Under high volume (RPM) the spring on the bypass is designed to open rather than force the coolant to the radiator. So what is the fix? For a race car application, that doesn't care about warm up, or cruising speed making the coolant go too cold, I'm hoping it's this..



A few notes about this. First, it was made yesterday, lol. It's been modded to push the valve further into the neck thus using more of the available spring as back pressure to force the coolant into the radiator. The valve is also bent to go further open and the sides have been shaved to open this passage even further. There are also holes drilled around the outter ring for just a bit more flow capacity. Will this work? It should -in theory-, but I won't know until I try it. Will the additional back pressure have any adverse affects on the water pump, it sure as hell could, but I will find out. That's why I didn't want to post this until it's tested.