Good luck to Blue Velocity at NASA TTU @ High Plains Raceway this weekend!

[Erron Spalsbury]

What he's elluding to is the FMIC isn't the problem at all. Its the delay time for the plunger on the stat. It takes like 5 seconds to open the radiator flow valve. It takes 2 seconds to heat the water from 180 to 220 degrees. By the time e stat move from open to closed it's 10 seconds. Delay is trapping the hotter coolant in the block because the plunger is bypassing the 220 temp fluid to the radiator and it's staying trapped in the block and re heating. Then by the time the plinger moves into radiator mode the coolant is double heated because of the temp cycles. The system works. Cooling isn't the issue its the stat blocking the use of the radiator from bypassing and it's "latency". It takes 10 second to cycle the stat and 2 second to make the heat.

You can't just pull the stat either you have to have the valve in there or youhave to weld it shut.

The other thing I was thinking with overheats is you have to have the riught stat in there with the valve. If the bypass valve is missing you can't use the radiator at all.

Right, that pretty much sums it up. Without a thermostat, you never put the system into full bypass meaning that a very small portion of the coolant is going to the radiator.

[mehrshadvr4]

that opening on your front bumper is so small. i have never seen a turbo car with such small opening that races at the track. if you want to solve the problem then you should look in to pit road m GTO's . well over 850hp and racing 3-4 hours of race with no over heating issue. are you using straight water? maybe you should add some water wetter.
it looks like they are using two tanks here.


what they use is their IC. how does your IC flow? that's very important. also they use radiator breather tank which catches all the air bubbles in your cooling system.
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
can't post the direct link but here is the pictures on their site. go to original parts then cooling parts.
http://www.pitroadm.com/public/newframe3.htm



but if you could make your ic setup like this would be the best of both world.

this is interesting. radiator and ic both are tilted to make it fit. you may be able to do that on the front bumper area with such long nose we have.

or you could go crazy and mount your radiator on the back.
http://blog.bespokeventures.com/tag/...nted-radiator/

also what LSDs are you using. are you still using factory vcu or you upgraded to SEC's center diff? how about your front and rear LSDs?

[Erron Spalsbury]

The more I look at these breather tanks, the more I like the idea. Putting more thought into this and I realize that with the high pressure cap on the top of the stock system the air reaches the top but can't go anywhere. When it does go somewhere, it's beyond the pressure of the cap which in my case is 1.5 bar. (which is at boiling point)

Mine is being run like this..


Which I'm now thinking should be like this...


A swirl is essential of course as in the case of my fuel surge tank so it only makes sense in this application as well. Here's some great pics of a swirl in action for cooling..


There are even some cool ones there with heat sinks..


I think i'm going to give this a try as well, sure can't hurt and it's cheap enough to where if it doesn't change anything it's not terrible.

[J. Fast]

Nice illustration bro. Lets examine this one.



See how the diagram depicts turbulance air bubbles in the block and the hose feeds, E?
That's what I was talking about. If you don't bubble the system you get air pockets and fluid separation. It doesn't have to be high pressure caused either. It's high heat or slow speed that will cause the bubbles.

As far as the diagram goes, that's how mine is plumbed, E. Bottom if the radiator, top of filler neck, block return on heater core, overflow to daylight.

[J. Fast]

And it doesn't have to swirl, but it can. If you can't swirl it you can install a micro filter and it will perform the same as the inertia separation method.

[Erron Spalsbury]

Thanks, but I stole that image from here...
Hot Tips

Ours has a sue-do version of this, the long neck on the top on the thermostat housing. I just ordered one of these with a true swirl pot so we'll see if it works. (fingers AND toes are crossed) The question is whether or not to run it in pressurized or non-pressurized mode. I'm going to try pressurized first. That way if we want to convert it I can do it at the track with a snip-snip of the cap plunger.