Good luck to Blue Velocity at NASA TTU @ High Plains Raceway this weekend!

[lawdogg]

On Sunday Law?

2.06xx through traffic. A solid 5 seconds (and change) slower than my fastest at HPR. Just too many people on the track to get a fast lap.

Yeah, gotcha. Can't wait to hear what happens when you go back with a front splitter, brake ducting, and hopefully they won't DQ you at qualifying so you can just start up front and not have to worry about traffic from the get-go!

[Erron Spalsbury]

Exactly right. I just need a full test day really.

[J. Fast]

Hey Err, did you log the third session? What was the AIT lap to lap? My fmic core is 1 1/2" thicker than yours and posted infront of my radator and I've no overheating issues. You also have wrapped headers and your turbo isn't mounted in the engine bay. You really think that's the issue? Your terminal speed is 165+ mph. You're moving a ton of air at that speed and I wouldn't think it would be an issue. Heat shouldn't creep like that after 15 mins especially since you were holding back. That inside vid looks like you were holding back quite a bit too! Last time we were at HPR you were taking 5th. You didn't even take 5th gear on the front straightaway, which you've done in the past, and you didn't engine brake at all. It looked like you had the room for it.

You think the expansion tank filling is from the FMIC blocking the radiator? Could always try air to water, but I don't think it will last 30 minutes before it hits 200deg unless we fog it. I actually changed my setup from some Bob Raub advice. He showed me the Volvo and their custom one piece crashbar, bumper, nose cone, and intercooler front clip. They welded 1/2" spacer tabs to the radiator so that their front clip bolted to the radiator. The FMIC was built into the clip and was their new crashbar and it mounted to the frame rails and radiator. There's no airgap between the intercooler and radiator at all. What Bob and Aaron pointed out to me was I needed to take away the space between them. Even with shrouding and ducting the desgn can be improved as the intent's to minimize air stall space between the front mount and the radiator. When I was running my old Greddy FMIC, which is the same dimension as your core, I encounterd the same type of issue as you but I never purged. My water temps were really freakishly hot though.

When I let Aaron and Bob look at it they pointed out the gap between my rad and the intercooler (which was about 4 inches). Bob said get rid of the gap and move them as close together as possible so you can smash air thru. Don't give it room to slow down and stall. I took the gap away and made some adjustments so there's only a 1/2" space between the two and it fixed it.

I also noticed your fans leave a lot of open area on the radiator and have no shrouding. You're only pulling air thru 300 square inches of a 600 sqare inch radiator because you're not ramming air due to the stall gap. I can show you how I have mine setup E. I think you should try it.

[Erron Spalsbury]

A few thoughts Jer, we're making a hell of a lot more power than the kpax volvo, by a long ass way.
Fans only work at slow speeds, high speeds and the fans actually block airflow, you have it backwards. This radiator is ducted corner to corner. If your fans can come on and lower the temp for them to turn off on their own, they've done their job. The rest is ducting.

A very interesting thought on the space between the two. I have triangle gap. The top of the IC is just about touching the radiator where as the bottom is about 2 inches away. It's just how it fits. The ducting is going right around the IC. The IC really just sits inside the duct for the radiator.
I know it's the front mount from history and what I've seen. I've seen so many mitsu cars that are 99% identical but one has a front mount and the other a side mount where the front mount car overheats, it's not even funny. Seriously man, like 4-5 examples of this. There is a cure in mind that I helped a friend with way back when. We actually used a side mount IC as an additional radiator inline with the stock radiator. That may be what I try next. I'm also going to pull the thermostat out of the car as well. See if maybe just a bit more flow will help.

The first time it boiled over on Sunday was in the pits. Ran the first full session, all the way to the checkers, did a cool down lap, (well spirited cool down, they want you off quick for the next race) didn't let it idle but a minute or two, and it boiled. It gurgled in the pits and dumped maybe a cup past the full bottle limit. It wasn't horrid. When it cooled, inside the t-stat housing it was down to the neck about level with the top hose. It didn't totally empty itself or anything, it just overheated.

[BigTyla]

Air-to-water might be your best bet on the cooling issues. Alternatively, you could angle the FMIC downward and/or fully duct the FMIC and radiator to the hood vents.

[CoopKill]

What turbs, and what kind of power?

[J. Fast]

I'm well aware if the fan thing. Remember, me only has one fan. The ram air effect is why I dropped one.

I think air will always follow the path of least resistance. So if the gap between the rad and the FMIC isn't equal fron top to bottom and side to side it will migrate to either the top or the bottom of the radiator and cut your total air passthru potential down cause your not going to be flowing. A uniform air column. I think you might try to make sure that gap's as small and uniform as possible.

Lots of lessons to be learned from Kpax, E. That car is multiple occasion GT world champion and AWD TT. It's also 550hp with a couple hundred more ft/lbs of tq. 550 is a little more than you on the current tune. Everything translates. What works there, works here.

[Erron Spalsbury]

You mean this car?

World's Fastest Volvo - MSN Autos

They've apparently turned up the boost!

Driven by this guy?
K-Pax Racing - Driver Bio

Randy is hands down the coolest guy and in my humble opinion, one of the worlds best drivers.




Very good point on the column of air, I hadn't thought about that. The issue there would be the IC is obviously smaller than the Rad. It would have to neck down then back up again.

Tyler, it's a GT4094 at 21psi. We just did a tune on it, 525hp/538TQ as of 2 weeks ago.

[J. Fast]

Yep, who do you think built my subframes, uprights, and suspension .

Listen to Randy on this vid. He's talking about the Kpax car's, Bob's cars. Look at some of their design. It's really hard to see but that intercooler to the bumper is all one piece. They are laying on eachother. Upper splitter is for intercooler, lower is for radiator.

KPAX RACING VOLVO S60 TECHNICAL REVIEW - YouTube

Test drive.

K-Pax Racing Volvo S60 Hot Lap at Mosport International Raceway - YouTube

You think car is slow...? LOL!

[Erron Spalsbury]

I know it's not slow, it's actually very similar to my car. (power and weight wise)

Ok, enough hijack....