Get me ready for NG road race and autocross!!!

[Toni]

So I really want to do the road race and autocross this year but I have some things I need to figure out and take care of before I do. I also have a ton of questions.

Maintenance:

Leak somewhere around tranny/tcase area. I have resealed it but I dunno where it's coming from now. Gotta figure it out.

I have a popping noise out of the drivetrain when I get out of first gear. It's not a loud clunk, but a short pop. As if something was bound up and gets freed up or something is loose? I've checked and can't see to find the culprit. Any ideas here?

I think my tires are pretty low. Both rear tires have been plugged once, done correctly plugged from inside. Is this a risk? How much tire will I go through on these events?


What else do I need to do to prep?

[bridge]

You know me carbotechs and aftermarket oil cooler/oil temp gauge

[Toni]

Hmm I haz carbotechs ax6s up front with new rotors last year. I forget if I did rear too I'll have to check. I also have stainless lines and good fluid ready to go. Hmm oil temp gauge. That bitch is gonna cost me. I do have an aftermarket oil cooler with fan.

[Maximal]

AX6's will probably be good for your first time out on the track. If you want to be safe and have the cash I'd go with XP8's though.

As for the oil temp. I know you have all the fancy AEM's but if you want to go with a Stri they have affordable options.

[anyonebutme]

Depends on how hard you feel like pushing. Great thing about the road course is it's noncompetitive so you can choose your own pace.

I've tracked for years without an oil temp gauge, even on the stock cooler. Make sure you come on a fresh oil change with good oil.

[i3igpete]

the indy track is pretty easy on the car heat-wise since you have that gigantic straight and long sweeper to cool off. I'd just go XP8 just because they work fine cold, and they're not much more money.

[R/T93]

Your current ax6s will be fine if you have more than 60% pad depth left. I had some ax6's WELL beyond their operating range and they never faded.

I'm just saying if you want to save 200 dollars, you will be alright.

[green-lantern]

I have a popping noise out of the drivetrain when I get out of first gear. It's not a loud clunk, but a short pop. As if something was bound up and gets freed up or something is loose? I've checked and can't see to find the culprit. Any ideas here?

I have a little bit of a thump when I get out of 1st. If I'm driving it hard I can feel it in 2nd also. I'm pretty sure it's a little bit of slack in the rear end or the mounts in the rear end. I have a new PST drive shaft so I'm pretty sure it's not that. The way mine feels I'm thinking my rubber in the mounts are just old and it's the rear diff slapping back in place after being twisted a good bit.

[Toni]

So since I have only had carbotech pads on these new rotors they say I don't need to get the rotors turned (if they are in good shape). If I put in the xp8s for the track can I then put in the ax6s for normal driving? Basically I want to go back and forth without new rotors.

Do the rear pads matter?

I have been wanting to get an oil temp gauge but haven't really had the need. It seems if I want to run more races then it will be necessary. Also, it should make it easier along with my pressure gauge to figure out what oil I should be using and if my cooler is overkill etc.

This sound is definitively coming from the front end and it's more of a popping noise than slack clunking. It's not the passenger's side because I inspected everything when doing the driveshaft. I need to tear stuff down a bit and see what I can find I guess. I was thinking of sticking the go pro in a few places to see if I can see anything while it happens.

[Maximal]

Yeah, you can swap between the carbotech compounds. I was doing that exact setup for a while, Ax6's for street and the XP8's for the track.

Rear pads aren't that important. Mine still look brand new after a few track sessions. What are you running now?