My Shifter lost that spongy feeling A.K.A. How to install cable bushings

[2fnloud]

While I had the pre and post turbo piping off to address my PTU issue, I figured it would be a great time to install the shifter bushings at the transmission.

I first had the bronze bushings that you can get on E-Bay, however I was unhappy with how sloppy one was after I ground it down too much trying to get it to install on the cable's end.

This was an error on my behalf, the other bushing was great very tight, no play...BUT

Chris (ABM) told me about roller blade bearings, and I happen to have and old set that has sat for years, so I went that route instead.

I LOVE how much tighter the bearings made everything in the end, a pain to press into the cables' ends but so worth it. I had to use a pair of channel lock pliers and force them in.

I found that a large washer was helpful in keeping the force of the pliers even on the bearing.

I even had to use the pliers to force them onto the pin on the transmission lever, I am sure that this was due to the angle that I was forced to fit the bearing on to the pin because the cable will not flex.

Anyways on to install picture:


Again the original washers may have been unnecessary, but I put them back, you also might noticed that my bottom bearing was not pressed totally into the cable's end and sticks out just a bit. Yes it is possible to get in pressed into the end totally, but my hand was getting tired, I can assure you that bearing is not coming out.

The original rubber bushings will push out, I was able to do so with my thumb. Just put a rag between your thumb and the bushing, it hurts less this way.

From there I decided to attempt stiffen up the bracket that bolts the the transmission.

I removed the rubber coating off of two of the washers that originally bolted the bracket to the transmission, I accomplished this with a wire wheel on a bench grinder. For the other two washers, I just used flat washers.

If you do this you will need to be certain that the washers that you use are exactly the same thickness as the original washers, this seemed important because it is a set position that keeps the cables at the proper adjustment.

The spacing between the bracket and the transmission may not be big a deal but I was not going to risk it. My washers ended up being about 1/32 of an inch thinner.

Original washers with the rubber coating removed:


New and original washers installed:




Here you can see my replacement washers between the bracket and the transmission and the original washers on the out side of the bracket.

Over all this change probably had a minimum effect, but at least I can say it was addressed.

I then went and installed the aluminum washers at the shifter's base. This can be done without having to remove the center dash, but you will need to remove the side carpet pieces to do this change.

Three of the four bolts I was able to remove by using a ratchet in the shiter hole working around the shifter. The bolt on the passenger side, closest to the seat, that bolt I needed to use a wrench on.

After removing the four bolts the base lifts easily, set four of the washers underneath the base, making sure that the smaller raised lip is facing the base, not the shell of the car.

Now you are ready to add the top washer to the bolt and insert them back into the base to secure the base to the car, again make sure that the smaller raised lip is facing the base not the head of the bolt.

It does take some finesse getting the base aligned back to the four bolt holes in the floor of the car.

Once you accomplish this you need to make sure that the bottom bushings are flush against the base of the shifter, this was a hassle for me but with persistence, I was able to get the base back into exact alignment so that all the bottom washers were flush to the bottom of the base.

Here are some pictures:
Driver's side


Passenger side:


I am looking at this picture, it appears that I did not tighten a bolt down all the way, I will have to fix this once I am done with this "How To".

Looking down the hole for the shifter:


That pretty much sums up how to do this. At the start of this post, I had not planned on it being a "How To" so please advise on any changes required so that this makes the most sense.

Oh and I am sure someone would ask this if I did not post it here in this thread. The brown stuff with the white capsule...THAT is a neutral safety switch for the remote start, the car will only remote start with the car in neutral.

How you ask? That is another "How To" for another time, I am tired.

Hope this helps someone.

[DK77]

Is it much more precise now?

[2fnloud]

Will report back once a test drive is done. I would say yes just testing for binding issues it felt more precise.

[DK77]

I may have to have a buddy of mine do this on his VR4, he has troubles finding the right gear LOL

[ViperZ]

I used rollerblade bearings for the trans end and solid bushings at the shifter base in car with a custom short shifter I made. Going from rubber to solid shifter bushings is a night and day feeling. The shifting is much more precise and feels sturdy. Makes for much faster shift times and helps prevent missing shifts. I would highly recommend this mod to everyone.

[GTOJOE]

Oh and I am sure someone would ask this if I did not post it here in this thread. The brown stuff with the white capsule...THAT is a neutral safety switch for the remote start, the car will only remote start with the car in neutral.

How you ask? That is another "How To" for another time, I am tired.

Hope this helps someone.

I also have this ebay kit but no time to install it...... like the rest of my parts as for the brown stuff and how it works.... my guess is it's a magnetic reed switch [held in place by what ever the brown stuff is] and you stuck a magnet on the end of the shifter. SO when it's sitting in nuetral the magnet is over the reed switch and then you can start your car......

[2fnloud]

i also have this ebay kit but no time to install it...... Like the rest of my parts As for the brown stuff and how it works.... My guess is it's a magnetic reed switch [held in place by what ever the brown stuff is] and you stuck a magnet on the end of the shifter. So when it's sitting in nuetral the magnet is over the reed switch and then you can start your car......

!!winner!!

[i3igpete]

is the bushing on the shifter itself the same size as the underhood bushings? I never understood why people replace the base bushings but never this one.

[2fnloud]

I would love to know the answer to that, I would like to replace both of the bushings on that end. There is one E-bay seller that offers the bushing made out of delrin, they are listed for a Eclipse.




But as you can see the two different sizes leads you to think that these could work.

[n2nsanity]

I don't even remember if I replaced my base bushings, lol. Doesn't seem like those would help as much as the ones on top of the trans. I have the ebay set installed and can't really tell a difference.
I have always wondered about the 2 on the shifter. I'll give the eclipse bushings above a shot when I do the short shifter.

Anyway, great write-up man