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Thread: It's been a while and I really need this fixed.

  1. #11
    Well, Fortunately both the coils and PTU can be tested and a multimeter can be had for like $2

    http://stealth316.com/2-ignitioncoils.htm
    http://stealth316.com/2-pwrtransunit.htm

    The inspection bit is at the bottom of the pages.

  2. #12
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    What are the symptoms of bad PTU?

    out of all the years working on cars, I have never run across a bad ignition control module / transistor unit..lol

  3. #13
    I'm not as familiar with the ptu as some other members, but I know it was one of the things I was worried about when my ECU failed (before I knew it was the ECU lol) The PTU is told by the ecu when to fire the coils, so if the ptu goes out then the coils will not fire or not fire at the right time. Usually this results in the car cranking but not starting (same as if ECU died.) I'm not sure but if the current going to the coils goes through the ptu first then a worn-out ptu may cause the same problem as improperly gapped plugs but i'll let a more informed member say whether that is true or not.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight92Vr4 View Post
    I'm not as familiar with the ptu as some other members, but I know it was one of the things I was worried about when my ECU failed (before I knew it was the ECU lol) The PTU is told by the ecu when to fire the coils, so if the ptu goes out then the coils will not fire or not fire at the right time. Usually this results in the car cranking but not starting (same as if ECU died.) I'm not sure but if the current going to the coils goes through the ptu first then a worn-out ptu may cause the same problem as improperly gapped plugs but i'll let a more informed member say whether that is true or not.
    I'm going to get some 300m coils tomorrow and just convert it to COP's. That will be a cheaper option for me now. I just wish the plates where cheaper that mount them as I'll have to make my own.

  5. #15
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    I got the 300m coils installed but it's only running on 4 cylinders. I'm to tired to diagnose it tonight so tomorrow I'll jump back into it.

    On the other hand I did notice something very strange...I readjusted the TPS and the car runs worse...I put it back, runs better but its out of spec until I readjust it. According to the data logger its at 12% without me pressing the peddle.

  6. #16
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    That's normal, as long as it's under 15% at idle and over 90% at WOT, you're pretty much ok.

    Just in case you misunderstood, the fuel pump voltage I was talking about earlier was the voltage at the connector in the tank. I was getting 12.5V (engine off) to the connector at the top of the fuel pump, but only 3V at the connector in the tank because the little ground wire in the tank had gone bad. That's unlikely to be the issue, but it could be worth a shot.

  7. #17
    ^On the TPS, what he said. Mine reads 13.2% at idle and 98% at full throttle but no matter how i adjust it, it won't go above 98% at full throttle. Moreover, if the key is turned to on but the car is not started then the datalogger reads only 80% TPS if my pedal is pushed to the floor.

  8. #18
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    I put the 300m coil packs in tonight with no change in performance. I have a log to post but it says the file is to large. The car did something it has never done before, I went to drive it and then all of the sudden it literally just about shut off. It seemed as if it just started running on 2 cylinders and had suck a small amount of vacuum that I didn't have brakes, well power brakes. After a few seconds with playing with the throttle, it started running on all 6.

  9. #19
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    Have you tested the PTU?
    R135
    ╚╬╬╝
    - 24

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocWalt View Post
    Have you tested the PTU?
    Replaced it today. Now I am thinking something is up with my mechanical timing. Anything look wrong with this picture to you?


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