ok got her pretty much back together....but

[Sin'sVr4]

ok, I got the tranny back in and bolted up, axles in and starter done. The tie rods are bolted back on and the main castles are back on the front ends. But, the brake pistons were all pressed out? I havent ever touched brakes (lol) and i took off the brake line and squeezed the pistons until they allowed me to fit them over the brake disc. Is this normal? the passenger side is done and calipers are bolted back up, but the driver side im still working on.

the brakes are a major important piece and i dont want to drive it unless its safe. How do I bleed them too?

All I have left is put on the tcase, downpipe, the brakes, tires, and then pull the rear plugs (i fouled them when the starter trigger wire went to shit.) and put new plugs in again.

I also have a UP racing bearing loaded short shifter coming in and new shift knob and boot. Man this was a serious project. Glad i learned how to do this. Completely tore down and recleaned and sealed 2 transmissions! Jer, i completely cleaned the trannie sooooo good this time the virgin mary couldve eaten off the surface of it.


I found that the reason I was having so many problems was my clutch fork pivot hole (where the fulcrum meets) was bored out larger(wear?) and the fulcrum it self was shimmed with a washer. This new tranny is simply beautiful. its soooo smooth. Chris, thx for the clutch pedal assembly. ( I installed the non clutch booster pedal assembly. SOOOOOO MUCH NICER!!!)

[Silver]

The pistons the push the brake pad to the rotor? Normally if the pads u had on were worn and u put new ones on then you would need u use a clamp to push the pistons back in. Make sure u do it slowly though, i forgot why but my dad always said to slowly tighten the clamp and push the piston back in.

[Jimvr4]

But, the brake pistons were all pressed out? I havent ever touched brakes (lol) and i took off the brake line and squeezed the pistons until they allowed me to fit them over the brake disc. Is this normal? the passenger side is done and calipers are bolted back up, but the driver side im still working on.

the brakes are a major important piece and i dont want to drive it unless its safe. How do I bleed them too?

What do you mean by "took off the brake line" ? Did you disconnect the break line from the caliper? If you did then you will have to bleed the system to remove the air that got in there. If you haven't bled the system in 2 years you need to do it regardless as brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water). If allowed to absorb enough water over time, rust will develop and the pistons could seize up which is not good.

Get everything back together and buy a couple of small bottles of DOT3 brake fluid. If you plan to race then get a high wet boiling temp fluid like Motul 600. If not then the standard DOT3 stuff is fine. Get a length of clear PVC tubing - I think 3/16 ID is the right size. It should fit snug over the bleeder valve nipple. Use an empty milk jug or similar to catch the fluid.

For bleeding you will need a helper. Always make sure the master cylinder reservoir fluid level is high enough that air can't enter the system. Add fluid only after ensuring that all four calipers have pads installed and everything is bolted up tight. The bleed order is passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, and then passenger front. If you have ABS you will need to perform the bleeding while the car is running.

For each caliper the process is open the bleed screw, have your helper pump the brake pedal to the floor a few times and then hold it down on the last pump. You will be watching the fluid in the PVC line. If it is dark or has air bubbles you will keep bleeding it until the fluid runs clear without bubbles. You will have to maintain the fluid level at the master after every 6-8 pumps of the pedal so don't forget! Your helper has to hold the pedal down to the floor until you tighten the bleed screw otherwise air will enter the system at the caliper end.

If this hasn't been done in a long and you do have ABS then I suggest keeping the car off until you get the fluid running clear on all four corners. Then start the car and repeat the bleeding process. The pedal should get very firm once it's done. Make sure each bleeder screw is tight but don't overtorque them or you could damage the calipers. Go around and check for leaks. If you have a leak anywhere then you have to find and fix it. If you have a leak at the caliper itself you may have to rebuild it with new seals. Check my sig for a link to my caliper powder coat / rebuild to see what you would be getting into.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

the brake pedal should only be pumped while the bleeder is closed. Open the bleeder while the assistant is holding down the pedal and retighten it before they let off the pedal.

[Keyan]

[Sin'sVr4]

thx guys. i will try this once i get off this week long closing streak at work

[Gearheadvr4]

Brakes are easy compaired to a tranny swap. Just need an assistant.