My bearing is going out on the passenger side front wheel (I have a '96 base model). Does anyone know of a good tutorial for taking out the front wheel hub? And the base models did not have abs brakes, correct?
Thank you!
My bearing is going out on the passenger side front wheel (I have a '96 base model). Does anyone know of a good tutorial for taking out the front wheel hub? And the base models did not have abs brakes, correct?
Thank you!
This is for an AWD car but the same principles apply: Removal and Installing front VR4 Wheel Hubs - 3SI Wiki. I recommend buying a tie rod end pickle fork instead of beating the knuckle until the tie rod pops out. Yes I've done it both ways before but the tool is only $10 from the parts store so do it right. Also, if your wheel hub isn't destroyed I generally use a brass sledge and another steel sledge to hit it out of the knuckle. Use the steel sledge to hit the brass one that hits the hub. I've just used a big hammer in the past but if you want to keep it just in case you need a spare one to put on a parts car for moving around or something the brass with help keep it from getting banged up from the hammer or steel sledge.
95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.
FWD bearings are pressed in, so you need a bearing press to get them out.
And IMO a pickle fork does more harm than good. It always busts boots on tie rods and ball joints.
[06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM
One reason to love 3sx, images:
To replace the wheel bearing, I suggest taking the whole knuckle out. Mark the alignment bolt on the strut.
Take off the wheel at rotor. Take out the axle.
From there, you can press out the "Hub Assy" (as labeled). This is pressed into the inside of the hub bearing.
Dust rings just pop off with a screwdriver, get new ones, there like $2.50 a piece at a parts store.
Remove snap ring.
Press out bearing.
Do everything in reverse.
I think I got the major points.
Careful thought, something like this might happen and you'll have to get a gear puller or a split bearing puller.
Last edited by B-Man; 04-17-2012 at 09:04 PM.
'92 Dodge Stealth RT/TT - Aug. 2012 COTM
Except for the fact that the snap ring is a huge bitch to remove. Because of that snap ring I pay people to change my wheel bearings. I mother fucked it one too many times.
I've only done it once, but I didn't have a problem with the snap-ring. I actually had problems getting the damn axle out of the 'hub assy'.
That happened on a parts car once. I got pissed and beat the axle so hard that once it finally did come loose it was too large to fit through the center splines.
I used a 50ton press and some heat
I never had a problem with the snap rings either. The inner race of half that bearing will always be stuck on something, even shows it in the manual, 3 jaw gear puller with fine jaws is a must (well you can grind them off if your in a pinch)
92 3000GT VR4
Matt
Yeah that inner race is always a bitch too. Maybe my snap rings are just cursed. I even had a guy who does bearings on the side tell me that the snap rings were the worst things he ever dealt with and had to make a special tool to get them out.
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